Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Hatch Trim & Hatches

I enjoyed the holidays with my family and got back on the build with installing the hatch trim and making the hatches.

There are 4 deck hatches and two pedestal hatches. The 4 deck hatches access the dry storage boxes. There are dry boxes on each side, each with two access hatches.

I first had to make backing that glues underneath the deck plywood along the edges. This reinforces the decks and gives up something to attach the hinge screws. The hatch backing is made with strips of 1/4" Okoume plywood that are about 2" wide. I made the strips and cut them to length. I had to make special strips that were about 5/8" wide that butted to the deck rail that runs lengthwise under the deck. Once these were cut I set them aside to flow coat with epoxy before gluing them in place under the deck and around the hatch opening.

I them had to make the hatch trims. These are strips of white oak that are 1/4" thick  x 1 1/4" wide. I made a list of the sizes required for each hatch opening and cut them approximately 2" longer than the finish length. Once all the pieces were cut to length I had to cut a saw kerf on one side near the top edge create a slot to install hatch coaming. Hatch coaming is a type of gasket seal. The saw kerf is about 3/32" deep x 3/32" wide. It is cut on one edge about 5/32" from the top edge. I set up fingerboards on my table saw and cut the saw kerf on each piece. I then set them on a table to flow coat them with epoxy.

Here is a piece of the hatch trim. It is 1/4" x 1 1/4". The saw kerf is on the top right.

Once they were flow coated and finish sanded it was time to install them. The hatch trim pieces fit inside the hatch openings. The bottom of the hatch trims are set flush with the bottom of the hatch backing and stick up above the deck about 3/4". The pieces are glued in place with thickened epoxy. Once the pieces are glued in place. (4 for each hatch) I cut sticks that were wedged inside to hold them in place. I did this for the 4 deck hatch openings and the two pedestal hatch openings.

Here's a photo of the hatch trim installed on the front pedestal. It sticks proud of the opening by about 3/4". The back is flush with the back side of the opening. It was glued into the opening with thickened epoxy.

This photo shows the hatch trim installed at one of the dry box openings. The opening has been filleted with epoxy peanut butter to seal the deck opening.

Hatches

I next had to make the hatches. They are constructed with white oak trim that has a rabbit to accept a 1/4" Okoume plywood panel. The stock was milled to 5/8" x 3/4". I milled a 5/32" x 5/32" rabbit on one edge to accept the panel. The hatches must be large enough to fit the weatherstripping. The next step was to mitre the pieces for each hatch. I then cut the plywood panel to size.

I glued the miters and the rabbet to accept the panel with thickened epoxy. I clamped the assembly all at once.

Here is one of the pedestal hatches. This is the back side. It looks sort of like a tray.

Here is the front side of he same pedestal hatch. It has been flow coated with epoxy and sanded. It will get one more flow coat of epoxy and then multiple coats of varnish.

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build. - Installing the Deck Trim and the Rod Rack Trim

My last post for the Kingfisher drift boat build was on December 12th. It's now January 10th. What the heck have I been doing for the last month. Well, I've mainly been taking care of details. Prior to the holidays  I installed the wood plugs at the deck and the deck trim. The progression was;

• Plugging the screw holes in the decks once they were installed.
• Making the trim 
• Steam bending the front deck trim
• Installing the trim at the decks
• Installing the trim at the rod holder
• Flow coating the deck trim with epoxy

Installing the wood plugs in the main deck. 

The main deck which curves around at the front is screwed to the framework with #8 x 1" silicon bronze screws. There are about 32 of them. I used a 3/8" countersink bit to allow for the wood plug. The decks are constructed with 1/4" Okoume mahogany plywood so getting the depth of the countersink right is a little tricky. Too deep and the screw has nothing to secure or not deep enough and you can't install the plugs. It's best to play around with a piece of scrap to get it right. 

I made the plugs with a 3/8" plug cutter and a drill press. I made a bunch of them. Drill a mahogany board and then rip the board on a bandsaw and you've got a bunch of plugs. One tip is to install the clean up any epoxy that oozes up through the holes when you attach the deck. If the epoxy ooze is allowed to set up you will not longer have a 3/8" diameter hole and the 3/8" diameter plug won't fit. I had some of these and it is a pain to get the holes cleaned up. I used a 3/8" diameter brad point drill bit and carefully twisted it by hand to clean up the hole. Don't do it in a drill or you'll be sorry. Again, I found this out.

The photo above shows the glued down deck. The edge trim has not been installed yet. The plugs are installed and finish sanded. You can also see the epoxy fillet at the deck where it joins the sides.

I used Tightbond Waterproof glue to glue in the plugs. Once the glue set up, I used a Japanese hand saw designed to flush cut plugs to cut the plugs off. Once the plugs were cut off I used a 120 grit orbital disc to sand the plugs flush. Be careful not to sand in one spot or you can possibly sand through the flow coats of epoxy on the deck. This is a big problem so don't do it. Once the plugs are flat, final sand the deck progressively to 220 grit.

Installing the deck trims

The next step was to make the deck trims and the trim for the rod rack. I made the deck trim out of  kiln dried white oak. This is fine for the straight pieces but difficult for the curved piece that is placed in front. I made finished stock that was 11/16" x 7/8" for the deck trim and 3/4" x 3/4" for the rod trim. Once the stock was made I used a carbide tipped dado blade with a spacer to make dados in the stock that were about 1/64" wider than 1/4". This dado goes over the 1/4" plywood that is flow coated on each side. The flow coating makes the plywood thicker than 1/4".

This photo shows the curved deck trim installed and epoxied in place. The piece is bent to a radius of about 19". 

The process of making the rounded deck trim involves steam bending and making a form to do so. You also need extra stock as bending a piece like this will take just the right piece and you don't know if it is until you attempt to bend it and clamp it to the form. I broke 3 pieces before I finally got one to bend to the radius. One trick is to make the dado deeper. I broke the first 3 pieces when the dado was 5/16" deep and the first one I tried with a dado that was 7/16" worked.  Was it the grain or the depth of the dado? Not sure but it worked.

I cut the pieces to size, ran the dado and then rounded the top and bottom edges that would be facing the deck, (the side with the dado) with a 1/4" round over bit in a router table.. This would have been impossible to round over once it was installed. (I rounded the other edges once it was glued into place). I then placed the wood piece in a steam tube and steamed it for about 1 1/2 hours. Once it was steamed I clamped it to the form and let it sit clamped up in the form for 24 hours. Like I said this took all day as I broke the first 3 trying to bend them.

I took the piece out of the form the next day and it sprung back quite a bit. I was able to dry fit it onto the curved plywood deck and clamp it in place. I took it out and then coated the inside of the dado with thickened epoxy. More of a runny mayonnaise consistency. I coated it a second time and installed it with 3 way edge clamps.

Once this piece set up, I glued the straight pieces on that run lengthwise to the stern, I used one long piece that was about 7 feet long and a shorter piece that was about 2 feet long on each side. I fit the rear one first and scribed it to the sides at the rear. I fit the longer one between the front curved section and the rear piece. This was very easy. I held this in place with package tape as the 3 way edge clamps would not fit because of the rod rack. I glued on the rod tray trim at the same time.

Flow Coating the Deck Trim

Once the epoxy had set up that glued the deck trim and the rod shelf trim in place I finish sanded the pieces progressively to 220 grit. I then coated the trim with 2 coats of epoxy. I used Raka UV Inhibited Resin mixed with Raka UV Inhibited Fast Set Hardener. This allows you to tend the epoxy as it sets up and eliminate most if not all of the runs, sags and drips. This is good to remember when flow coating anything that is a vertical or sloping surface.

Next Up - Casting Deck

This was all accomplished before the Holidays and I got started back up with installing the front casting deck.

Nuts & Bolts #2 - Water Load Casting

When nymphing from a drift boat you are typically casting multiple flies with shot. On the Lower Yuba River which often has good water clarity you also need to add the element of stealth. This means that you often need to be able to cast your nymphing rigg at least 2 rod lengths and more from the boat. This may seem daunting to some. By using a water loading casting technique you will be able to improve your ability to achieve these distances with less tangling when casting shot and multiple flies. We were fishing one day and my son Zack looked at me with a huge smile and a tangled mess of tippet and flies and said, "Look dad, I've got a bigger rat's nest then grandpa." Using a water load cast can help this from happening.



First I'll describe an indicator rigg setup that has been successful for me on the Lower Yuba River, the Lower Sacramento River, the Klamath River and many rivers in Montana when side drifting from a drift boat or raft.





Indicator Setup -






(a) For most side drifting from a boat I will typically rigg up with an indicator and about 6' to 9' of tippet from the indicator to the shot depending on the depth of the run.





(b) I usually rigg up with a tapered 2x x 10' leader. I prefer to use the tapered leader so I can adjust depth easily.




(c) On the Lower Yuba River and the Lower Sacramento River we have been using a "Thingamabobber", large size, white color. On drop offs and areas that have changing current speed and depth I prefer a "Boles" indicator in blue or green. The flag on the "Boles" allows you to see where your flies are underneath your indicator and will tell you to (1) either raise or lower the indicator, (2) Mend to speed up or slow down the drift, or (3) add or take off shot.

Usually I will choose one or the other and stick with it throughout the day.


Fly Rigging - I'll run three flies under the indicator, each spaced from 12" to 18". The deeper the run the larger the spacing. I use 3x fluorocarbon from the shot to the 1st fly, 4x fluorocarbon from the 1st to the 2nd fly and either 4x or 5x fluorocarbon from the 2nd to the third fly depending on the size of the fly.


Presentation - I believe that the Yuba requires stealth with your presentation and the set-ups for your drift. I usually try to cast my indicator into the desired seam with the length of the cast to be at least 2 rod lengths (18 to 20 feet) from the boat and a lot of times even further than that, closer to 3 rod lengths. (2o to 30 feet). I use a 6 weight 9'6" Sage XP or Z-Axis and it does just fine. Keep mending as required to keep the indicator moving in a straight line downstream.

Water Load Casting Technique


Water Load Casting - When fishing from a drift boat there is typically little concern for getting caught up when backcasting. This does not mean you shouldn't "look" first. The best technique for delivering the indicator, shot and flies and if there are not obstructions for your backcast is to water load your back cast prior to your forward cast.


Back Cast - To set up your backcast. You need to think of the mantra (1) lift (2) look (3) launch. By repeating this mantra you are reminding yourself to;

(1 Lift) - Strip your indicator and flies towards the boat and lift the flies out of the water column until you see them up on the surface and then in one fluid motion;
(2 Look) Take a quick look at the back side to see there are no obstructions behind you.
(3 Launch) Lift the indicator and flies out of the water and start you backcast aiming your rod tip over your shoulder.

The cast should be overhead not side arm (parallel to the water). Think of your rod tip as a paint brush and you are painting the ceiling with it. This is another mantra that come in handy (Paint the Ceiling). Continue with your rod tip and point to landing spot on the backcast. Let the indicator and flies come to rest on the water on the backcast.

Forward Cast - before your flies sink behind you repeat the mantra;

(1 Lift) - Lift the flies back off the water before they sink to water load the forward cast;
(2 Look) - Where you want your flies and indicator to land which will be the seam that you want to fish;
(3 Launch) Start your forward cast over your head just to the side of vertical

Remember to (Paint the Ceiling) with your rod tip on the forward cast over your head or just to the side of vertical.


(4 Delivery) - Deliver the flies and drop your rod tip, make a mend for a dead drift and you're fishin'.



Done! Whew. Not as hard as it may sound.




Using this technique will keep your flies from dropping and forming a tailing loop and will eliminate constant tangles with indicator and flies.



Controlling the Drift


Mending - When side drifting from a drift boat under indicator the idea is to set up a drag free drift. Once the indicator lands, Stack mend the tip of your fly line directly behind the indicator. It is best to try to have about 2 ft. of fly line above the indicator which will help slow down the drift of the indicator. The water at the surface always flows faster than the water where the flies are drifting.



Point your rod tip at the indicator and mend almost constantly to keep the line fairly straight to the indicator. You can actually mend and place small wiggles in the line between the rod tip and the indicator. If your line is flowing faster than the indicator make small upstream mends without moving the indicator. If the line is flowing slower than the indicator make small downstream mends without moving the indicator.




If the whole rigg is just not floating right, start over and reset with another backcast, a water load forward delivery and you're right back at it.





Summary





Utilizing the water load cast is by no means the only way to set up your cast when nymph fishing from a boat but another technique to add to your arsenal. It will help keep your tippet and flies from turning into a rat's nest. I know your guide will appreciate it!

Thanks
I wish to thank Craig Neilson of Shasta Trout for sharing his mantra of "Lift, Look and Launch." You can contact Craig at http://www.shastatrout.com/
I also want to thank Mike Hibbard, a superior guide and friend for the mantra "Paint the Ceiling". You can contact Mike Hibbard on his cell phone at 530-526-5535.

Make a Tradition!
Clay