tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46511530979385840272024-02-18T21:23:28.137-08:00Fly Fishing TraditionsThis blog is being created to help document and share my flyfishing experiences, knowledge, and travels. I hope you will enjoy the experiences with me.Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.comBlogger248125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-12125906728371064192017-01-20T10:12:00.001-08:002017-01-20T10:12:12.504-08:00Part 2 - Following the Big Flows on the Lower Yuba River<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><i>Old Island Complex Looking Upstream - Photo #1</i></b></div>
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This is part two of the post dated 01/17/17. The purpose of these photos and notes is to provide some perspectives as to what affect the extreme high flows of the recent storms, peaking at 85,000 cfs, may have upon the stream bed, trees and the natural environs of the Lower Yuba River<br />
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The photo above was taken downstream from the "Old Island Complex". This is just downstream from the area that is known as the "Aquarium". Why the name "Aquarium"? When floating downstream there is a complex of rock formations that have created a run of deep water, in some cases over 20 feet deep. When the river is running gin clear, you can see every pebble on the bottom as the fish as the scurry away.<br />
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<b><i>Back to Photo #1 - </i></b>The channel of water to the center right is flowing out of the "Aquarium" There is another channel to the left was flowing through but has now stopped. Both channels are trying to cut the corner so to speak. These channels are what we all hope will continue to flow once the river drops to fishable conditions of 2000 cfs or less. My thoughts are that it will not. This complex is a prime example of an area that could use a restoration project. It would require a piece of equipment to do so, as mother nature needs some help.<br />
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This area had water flowing through multiple channels years ago before the main channel was scoured deeper. There is too much gravel at the top end of the channels to allow the river to flow down through the area when there are lower flows during the summer and salmon spawning time. They can put equipment to fix Putah Creek, why can't this be done on the Yuba? Maybe a volunteer group of volunteer with picks and shovels good get it to start flowing?<br />
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<b><i>Old Island Complex Looking Downstream - Photo #2</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #2</i></b> - This photo is taken from the tailout of the "Aquarium" run. At the right the water is running into what is at 5500 cfs, a big bay. The water in this channel is no longer running through. Just to the left there is a channel that is still running through, (see photo 1). Most of the water is running to river left which is shown in the foreground. This continues to run at the highest volume, thus digging the tailout deeper on this side. This will result in the main flow continuing to flow down the main channel at flows of 2000 cfs or less. Thus drying up the other two channels. Back to the way we are accustomed, but not the way we would like.</div>
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<b><u>Miner's Corner - Photo #3</u></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #3</i></b> - This run, which is the main channel below the tailout of the "Aquarium", flows into "Miner's Corner". This corner on the left has been dubbed as "Miner's Corner" by Jon Biaocchi, and maybe others that I am not familiar with. It is appropriate as there are often people panning for gold on this corner. This photo was taken when the river was flowing at 5500 cubes and the river is in its normal deep channel. The river hits "Miner's Corner" and then turns to the right to the antiquated "Concrete Diversion Structure". All back to normal.</div>
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<b><i>Erosion at Road - Photo #4</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #4</i></b> - The road along the run above "Miner's Corner" has a paved road along it. A large portion of the right edge of the road has been undermined. This piece of asphalt is hanging over about 4 feet. This shows the power of the river at the high flows. It takes established trees and shrubs to hold the gravel. Sometimes even that isn't enough.</div>
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<b><i>Run Below Miner's Corner to the Antiquated Concrete Diversion Structure -Photo #5</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #5</i></b> - The run shown here is right back where it always is found. The gravel bar to the right was completely underwater at the highest flows during the storm.</div>
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<b><i>Top of "Long Island" - Photo #6</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #6</i></b> - This photo was taken about 1/4 mile below the antiquated concrete diversion structure just above the top of "Long Island". The flow is divided and is flowing into the main channel on the right and to the side channel at the left. This is back to normal, although it looks to me like the top of Long Island has been eroded back a ways. There is a big pool to the left as the water flows into the side channel.</div>
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<b><i>Pool at Side Channel of Long Island - Photo # 7</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #7</i></b> - This is a better look at the pool just downstream from the top of Long Island. The high flows carved this out. Water is currently flowing into the pool, dead ends and then dumps off to the left into the side channel. This will get much smaller as the water recedes to fishable shape of 2000 cfs or less.</div>
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<b><i>Middle of Long Island - Photo #8</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #8</i></b> - At the middle of Long Island the channel is a bit wider and gravel has been eroded behind some of the willows on the main gravel bar. This may stay this way at fishable conditions. Time will tell.</div>
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<b><i>Long View of Long Island - Photo #9</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Photo #9</i></b> - This is a longer view of Long Island taken about 1/3 down from the top. I appears to me that this side channel has widened and deepened a bit. Long Island was completely under water during the highest flows of the storm. With that said it it back where it normally is.</div>
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<i><b>Bottom of long Island - Photo #10</b></i></div>
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<b><i>Photo #10 </i></b>- The final photo is of the bottom of long Island. It looks pretty familiar but what the structure of the stream bed will be like, We'll have to wait until I can float it once it drops down to about 2000 cfs.</div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">In summary;</i></div>
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<li>The photos from this and the previous post were taken from the areas of the river that was accessible by vehicle. </li>
<li>Sycamore Ranch Park and Hammon Grove Park were closed. </li>
<li>The river was flowing at about 5500 cfs on the day they were taken. </li>
<li>The portion of the river where the photos were taken was from about 1/3 of a mile above Parks Bar Bridge to downstream about 2 1/2 miles from the bridge.</li>
<li>The photos are meant to open a dialog as to the effect the highest flows have upon the river and its environment. </li>
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Hopefully this dialog may answer a few questions. Time will tell where the fish are.<br />
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Clay</div>
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Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-3894015997539420752017-01-17T22:37:00.000-08:002017-01-17T22:37:14.265-08:00Lower Yuba Storm - January 2017 - Photo Essay Part One<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><i>1/3 Mile Above Parks Bar Bridge - Photo #1</i></b></div>
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It's January 17th, 2017 and the recent storms have just receded and the combined flows of the Lower Yuba plus Deer Creek is about 5400 cfs. and still dropping. The flows from the previous storms came up as high as 76,200 plus Deer Creek at 9850 for a combined flow that totaled approximately 86,050 cfs. That is a lot of water. Now that the waters have come down maybe we can see if anything has significantly changed.<br />
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There are many conversations going on among fly fishers, guides, conservation groups and the general public about how these recent storms and the resulting high flows may affect the structure and course of the river. I believe that the photos in this post may provide some clues. As a background, I have been fishing the Lower Yuba for over 30 years,been guiding it for 8 years and have been rowing a drift boat or raft on it for the last 15 years. I have been through this type of weather cycle a number of times.<br />
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This will be a longer post with lots of photos with commentary regarding the photos. I will probably do two posts to cover this topic. The photos start from a position about 1/3 of a mile above the Parks Bar Bridge and the will end at the bottom of Long Island which is about 3 miles below parks Bar Bridge.<br />
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<b><i>Photo #1 - Taken about 1/3 a mile above the Parks Bar Bridge.</i></b> (See Above)<br />
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The photo at the top of the post was taken from a position that was up stream of the Parks Bar Bridge along the Timbucktoo Road. It shows the view around the corner that is about 1/3 a mile above the Parks Bar Bridge. During the peak flows all of the white gravel was under water, Non of the in stream willows could be seen. Today there is a trickling flow on the left. This is at 5400 cfs. When the flows drop this will probably dry up. The same can be said about the trickling flow to the right behind the willow line. The river is now and will pretty much stay in its normal course.<br />
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<b><i>Old Bridge Rock Plies - Photo #2</i></b></div>
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The photo directly above was taken from on top of the Parks Bar Bridge looking upstream. The stream is a bit wider than normal and some gravel on the left side has migrated downstream. The launch under the bridge is to the right side. The water is back where it normally is flowing around the center rock pile. We will have to wait until the waters drop to under 2000 cfs to make any final conclusions as to the nature of this run.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrnbg_JIO6WOMS-u8E4fN3SYFBLZJWJP5ZIrG6ATGZbrNjVOP0b8VTohRCxwm4JarqOlSdHgSxXwbqcmdQDH9vtUqOt5iPbP24URE6j2qLl_35xHuaLn7w-BfiiFy62PJ86lJLSu_R2g/s1600/Launch+Under+Bridge+Area.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUrnbg_JIO6WOMS-u8E4fN3SYFBLZJWJP5ZIrG6ATGZbrNjVOP0b8VTohRCxwm4JarqOlSdHgSxXwbqcmdQDH9vtUqOt5iPbP24URE6j2qLl_35xHuaLn7w-BfiiFy62PJ86lJLSu_R2g/s400/Launch+Under+Bridge+Area.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Launch Area Under the Parks Bar Bridge - Photo #3</i></b></div>
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The photo directly above is the launch area just above the Parks Bar Bridge. Prior to the storm there was a large gravel bar just downstream from the rock piles. Most of this gravel bar and some of the willows have been pushed downstream.</div>
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<b><i>Run Directly Below Parks Bar - Photo #4</i></b></div>
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The photo directly above was taken while standing on the top of Parks Bar Bridge looking west, downstream.. This entire bar was under water pretty much bank to bank at the peak flow of the storm. There is a side channel that is flowing into the main channel from the left. My guess is that this will stop flowing when the water gets below 1500 cfs or so. The river is back in its main Channel. The willow line on the river left side is still there but pretty mangled. The rocks on river right are still there. In the longer distance on river left is where the Army Corp of Engineers placed a large number of log piles. They are all gone.</div>
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<b><i>Log Stacks - Photo #5</i></b></div>
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Photo #5 was taken when the log piles were placed in the fall of 2016. There were probably 16-20 stacks on this bar. As stated above, they are now all gone.</div>
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<b><i>Single Log Stack - Photo #6</i></b></div>
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Photo #6 - This is another photo of a single log pile which is typical of the multiple log stacks. they are probably in the San Francisco Bay by now.</div>
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<b><i>Bar Below Parks Bar Bridge - Photo #7</i></b></div>
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Photo #7 - The sand and gravel bar in the foreground is where one bunch of approximately 16-20 log stacks were placed. In the background you can see a willow line with water running behind it. Will this be flowing when the water drops to 1000 cfs. I hope so, but I have been disappointed in years past. Time will tell. You can see the Parks Bar Bridge in the top right corner of the photo.</div>
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<b><i>Run at Granite Rock Face about 1 Mile Downstream from Parks Bar Bridge Photo #8</i></b></div>
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Photo # 8 - This photo is taken looking downstream looking at the big Granite Rock on river left and then the run that is directly above the Aquarium. The Aquarium is downstream about 1/2 a mile after the river bends to the left and is not in the photo. There is a big pool on the left just downstream from the granite rock face flowing into a side channel. This is new. The main flow of the river is in its normal channel.</div>
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<b>Run Upstream of the Aquarium - Photo #9</b></div>
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Photo #9 - This photo is a closer view of the distant view of Photo 8. You can see the rock pile on river right in the center of the photo. This is the normal rock pile in this run and it is back. It was completely underwater at the high flows. The water in the foreground is spilling into the riffle moving from left to right. This is different. </div>
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<b><i>New Side Channel Flowing Directly into the Aquarium - Photo #10</i></b></div>
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Photo #10 is showing the new side channel that is flowing into the top end of the Aquarium. The water shown extending to the left of photo #9 connects to the water in this side channel. At 5500 cfs the pool is currently receding. There may be a trickle flowing when the water drops to 1500 cfs or less. It may stop flowing. We'll have to wait and see.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Stay Tuned For Part Two</span></div>
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<br />Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-19057005133769604112015-12-04T10:06:00.000-08:002015-12-04T10:06:05.497-08:00Tale of Two Days<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is a tale of two days on the Lower Yuba river, the "Opener" and the "Day After". The Lower Yuba river above the Parks Bar Bridge opened up on December 1st after being closed for 3 months. The river above the bridge is closed to protect spawning Chinook Salmon. The "Opener" is a much anticipated event that most local fishers have blocked out on their calendars, called in sick or just plain played hooky from whatever they should be doing. In other words there are a typically a lot of anglers on the river. This story is about a bunch of fish to the net on the "Opener" versus "A Few" on the next day. I'm not much of a fish counter so let's leave the counting to that.</div>
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Here's how the opening day went. I made it down to the river early with my good fishing buddy "Frank Rinella". We've fished the "Opener" for many years, it's sort of a ritual. Something we both look forward to. We hit the river at about 7:30 and took a survey of the river where we launched the boat. There was a drift boat with two wading anglers in a different run a fair distance above where we were. There were two anglers fishing the tailout of the run we were in. I noticed 2 more anglers hiking upstream. We really had one choice, get it the boat and fish the run right in front of us. This run is known for the spawning beds for salmon just upstream at the head of the run. This run goes from the drop off at the base of the riffle upstream to a nice run that is about 5 feet at the deepest and then tails out. It is about two football fields long. We had about 200 yards to fish for ourselves. Pretty darn lucky.</div>
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We had to rig up and get to fishing before the crowd closed in on us. Frank set up a nymphing rig with a Troutbead and a San Juan Worm and startted fishing. I had to put my rod and reel together and get set up. Franks was into fish immediately. It took me 10 minutes to get rigged as I kept getting distracted netting his fish. As far as my rigging up I really had a couple of things I could do, but there were salmon beds upstream and a few salmon in the riffles splashing around. So the choice was obvious to me. My Egg Rig!</div>
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I tied up a three fly rig. I started with a 9 foot 3x tapered leader, extended with 3x Fluorocarbon tippet to a painted Troutbead, natural color. I tied another 18" piece of 3x Fluorocarbon and tied on a black rubberleg stonefly, I then added another piece of 4x fluorocarbon and added a size 18 Flatulator, (BWO). When all tied up the flies are about 14" to 16" apart. I then placed two decent sized split shot at the first tippet knot above the Troutbead. This is sort of my standard rig for fishing the runs below most any spawning beds. The egg goes closest to the leader, followed by by an attractor and then a imitative mayfly on the point. I mostly fish this rig without an indicator and just stay tight to the flies. I often add an indicator to the rig but I typically start out "Tight-Lining".</div>
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Once I got rigged up Frank took a break and watched me fish. I had similar luck. We fished this run and found a bunch of willing fish. They slashed at the Troutbeads at will. Quite a pod of fish. They averaged about 12" to 13". 3 out of 4 took the beads, I caught 2 on the Stonefly, Frank caught a couple on the San Juan Worm. Not one on the mayfly. The fishing was fast until the sun rose over the ridge and shined on the river. It slowed down almost immediately. Not that it stopped, it slowed down. We fished this run and headed downstream in the boat. The rest of the day turned into a fish here and a fish there and then shuting down at about 2:00.</div>
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The summary for the "Opener" was great, a bunch of fish to the net, mostly in the first 2 hours, mostly about 13" (the largest about 15"-16", mostly on Troutbeads. Fishermen all over the place and hard to find open water.</div>
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So on to Day Two. Frank and I decided to come back the next morning and fish until about noon. Basically start at the same spot and get there about a half hour earlier. We expected the crowd to thin out considerably and not be as crowded as the "Opener". We got there as planned, rigged up pretty much exactly as the day before. No one on the river. We had the river to ourselves, at least early on. We started with high hopes, we fished the same run as the day before, we got our clocks cleaned. Not a bump. This was after changing rigs, flies, techniques the works. We could not buy a fish. (actually 1). We took our lumps and headed down stream. The count for the half day was three. Three is easy an easy number to keep track of. A Bunch is hard.</div>
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So, the tale of two days, A bunch to a couple. I guess that's fishing, it's also about sore lips and fishing pressure!</div>
Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-67642684206766234552015-10-23T23:42:00.002-07:002015-10-23T23:51:54.710-07:00Trinity River SteelheadingI had the chance to fish the Trinity River a while back with my long time friend Blake Larsen and another old friend and guide Mike Hibbard. Mike typically guides the Trinity from mid September through January or February every year. He is one of the most respected guides on the Trinity River. We had a great couple of days to say the least.<br />
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Here is a video of our trip with Mike Hibbard. Thanks again for being the quintessential steelhead guide. You can contact Mike at <a href="http://www.mikehibbardflyfishing.com/">www.mikehibbardflyfishing.com</a><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/143450095" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://vimeo.com/143450095">Trinity River Steelheading</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user45158948">Clay Hash</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-66003708430738327442015-09-17T18:49:00.000-07:002015-12-07T17:15:33.053-08:00Which Stance for Fly Casting<span style="font-family: inherit;">The stance you use for casting can influence the movements that follow, such as how you move your casting arm and add force with your shoulder and body. As with grips, each stance provides somewhat different advantages and disadvantages.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>The Squared Stance</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">When starting from square one with beginning students using a squared stance, facing the target without dropping either foot back is a good idea. Why? The biggest advantage of this stance is its simplicity in relationship to the alignment of the casting arm. Without moving your body, you can easily attain an elbow-forward arm position throughout the casting movements. Such simplification of primary movements is important in achieving the consistency for which we strive and a building block for good form. Once good form and timing is achieved the squared stance is the preferred stance.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>The Casting Side Dropped Back Stance</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Another good option is the casting side dropped back position. This is often the second step for beginning casters once they have their elbow- forward arm position form down. If right handed, you drop your right foot back, as if preparing to throw a ball. It is recommended to start the students with the casting side dropped back 45 degrees. The main advantage of this stance is in developing timing.</span><o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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With the casting side dropped back position you are able to watch your back cast to see when to start the forward cast. One thing to watch out for is that this stance may lead to rotating that side forward during the forward cast. This additional body turning sometimes rotates a caster’s arm and fly rod out of alignment, thus angling the fly line away from the intended direction. Having to realign your arm and rod for the forward cast can also complicate the movement, particularly if using an elbow forward half-throwing motion. So be aware and don't lose good form.<br />
<br />
Although timing can be taught in various ways, it is said that most students, in fact, do learn timing best by turning to see the fly line straightening in back. However, it is probably best to have them drop the casting side back just enough to see the back cast, a peak so to speak, then return them to a squared stance when the timing has been corrected. Remember turning to watch a back cast is usually done when practicing, and seldom done when we’re out fishing. I heard the expression. “Watching your back cast is bad form, except in bear country”.</span></o:p><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></o:p><br />
<o:p>If you’re casting a slow full flexing action rod, like a bamboo or older graphite, opening up your stance can be used with a lengthened hand movement for better form. <span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span><o:p><br />
</o:p></o:p><br />
<o:p><b><o:p>How Abou<span style="font-family: inherit;">t the Stance for </span></o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Long Distance Casting?</span></b></o:p><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></o:p><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;">When it’s time to start practicing long distance casting it’s time to go back to dropping the casting side back. Watching the loops coming off the rod tip on a back cast is the best way I know to learn how and where to stop the rod butt to form small loops in a long line on the back cast. By this time, arm alignment should be fairly well ingrained. This open stance offers another distance advantage, inviting long hand movements for a wider casting arc.</span></o:p><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
</span></o:p><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>The Casting Side Forward Stance</b></span></o:p><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;"> <br />
Occasionally I’ll see a person casting to a specific fish and attempting to get a really accurate cast, using a stance with the casting side and foot forward, rather than back. It is said that turning the casting side forward enhances accuracy by bringing the hand and arm that directs the cast into closer alignment with the eyes and the target.<br />
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<b> Summary</b><br />
<br />
It’s not a bad idea to start students with the grip and stance that works best for most people. If you are a beginner, try the squared stance, with your thumb providing support behind the forward cast. If you find yourself having trouble with timing, drop your casting side back enough to make it easier to watch your back cast.<br />
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If you are more experienced, I would encourage you to experiment with these grips and stances, considering the trade-offs in each change you make. Perhaps you will find something that works better with your cast than what you have been doing.</span><br />
</o:p>Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-46644491241676896912015-09-17T18:16:00.000-07:002015-09-17T18:16:17.760-07:00March Browns on the Lower YubaThe March Brown Mayfly is sort of a ghost hatch on the Lower Yuba. some years you'd never know they exist and the next year there they are. This is one of the years that they are happening. How do we know. The best indication is when you spot clouds of dancing male march brown spinners hovering over the water. They are the big ones. The females are smaller. You will often see these spinners bouncing above the runs. The females The spinners that you see hatched a few days earlier.<br />
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<img src="http://www.goulburnvlyflyfishing.com.au/images/Miscel%20Pics/Insects/March%20Brown/report5.jpg" height="320" width="400" /></div>
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The duns hatch and hang around the bushes and trees for a few days and then they molt into sexually mature spinners. Their colors darken, their wings become much clearer and in the case of the males their tails and forelegs elongate. They mate and the females return and drop their eggs.</div>
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<b>March Brown Nymphs</b></div>
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The march brown mayfly typically arrives with the onset of spring. It is a "clinger" mayfly and clings tenaciously to rocks in the fast water. Does the name march brown mean that the fly hatches in March, not necessarily. In our river it is more of an April event and the conditions need top be just right. Big spring storms with high flows happen and you'll never know there are march browns in the river.</div>
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In our river the march brown nymphs are very dark brown and almost black. That doesn't mean that they are available to our trout very often. They have the ability to cling to rocks like no other. They also tend to hide under and in the crevices during daylight hours. They venture out at dark They are adapted to stay out of harms way. But when the nymphs become mature they sport large dark wing pads they start to get restless as they begin to contemplate emergence. They start to migrate to slower water along the edges. Guess what, they loose they foothold and end up in the drift. This is when fishing march brown nymphs are the most effective, basically prior to emergence.</div>
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<img height="265" src="https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSxaIE0rnqfNm73ZX-cVvmwu6d_oM-itdojHnzO6ZMheIXP8sMxNA" width="400" /></div>
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Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-40289883378251432262015-09-17T17:58:00.001-07:002015-09-20T10:05:02.728-07:00Poodle Sniffer - Black Caddis<br />
Here's another fly tying video tying the "Poodle Sniffer" pupa to match a Glossoma Caddis<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/61qAN2fiQDo?rel=0" width="560"></iframe>Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-21749145172855778952015-09-17T17:56:00.001-07:002015-09-20T10:05:15.512-07:00Black X-CaddisHere's video from Blu Ribbon Flies on how to tie a Black X-Caddie<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="345" src="//www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/KiH6Tp3_05k?rel=0" width="500"></iframe>Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-57568749223998247052015-09-17T17:37:00.000-07:002015-09-20T10:07:07.483-07:00Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - VarnishingWell, I've got the boat flipped back right side up and back in the paint booth. I've been taking a break from the boat for the last 3 weeks or so as I built a pole barn/shed out behind my shop. My brother Craig and his wife Toni came out and helped me build it. The weather in Idaho had shut him down so they came for visit and gave them a job helping me. I'll have a post about that process on another day.<br />
<br />
So, right now I'm about three quarters of the way to a minimum of six coats of varnish to apply to all exposed wood parts on the boat. Ugh! I'm four coats into it and all I can say is you have to be patient and take your time. You can't be in any hurry. There's lots of prep, masking and sanding to the process. But most importantly, is the actual technique involved with the applying of the varnish.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Preparation</h3>
The first thing I had to do was to mask off the painted sides. I purchased a special 3M Scotch Blue Painters Tape for Delicate Surfaces #2080. This tape can stay in place for 60 days. I used this to mask a line right under the gunnels. I then used 48" painters masking plastic and taped it to the 1st layer of tape at the gunnels. This protects the entire paint on the exterior of the boat.<br />
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I next masked of the interior floors areas and sides that are painted with Durabak truck bed liner. The tape doesn't stick real well to the Durabak but I did the best I could.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Sanding</h3>
<i><b><u>The Process</u></b></i>. All the mahogany and oak parts on the boat have been coated with at least 3 or 4 coats of epoxy prior to starting the varnishing. The varnish job will be a minimum of 6 coats. I will work towards applying the initial 4 coats of varnish which will provide a solid varnish base coating. Once the 4 coats are applied I will need to do a real complete sanding of everything to make sure the surfaces are flat. It is necessary to wait for this heavy sanding as you need enough mil thickness to accomplish the flattening. Four coats should do it. Once the flattening sanding is done, I need to put on at least 2 or 3 finish coats of varnish. Sound pretty simple hey?<br />
<br />
The initial sanding prior to the first coat of varnish and the next four coats is done using 220 grit sandpaper and/or a Scotch-Brite pad. I used 220 grit with a sanding block on the flat surfaces and the Scotch-Brite pad on the curved surfaces. I used the sanding block with the Scotch-Brite pads where I could.<br />
<br />
Scotch-Brite pads come in various grits. I have primarily used the red pads (Fine about 300 grit). The Grey (Ultra Fine about 400 grit) will come into play on the final two coats. The sanding between the coats is mainly a scuffing to bond the next coat.<br />
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<b><i><u>Sanding Reality</u></i></b> - The main thing I have learned at this point is how the temperature of your workplace really affects the process. My shop has been getting down to about 45 to 50 degrees F at night. I keep an electric oil heater going in my finishing booth days and nights and have been able to maintain about 55 to 60 degrees F in the finishing booth. The main thing that the lower temperatures does is to delay drying time. The lower temperatures really only effect the time it takes to dry. My drying times between coats is running about 48- 72 hours. To be really dry it needs 72 hours. When is it dry enough?<br />
<br />
Good question. You can "Hot Coat" varnish coats if the varnish is still soft without sanding. Sounds good doesn't it. I have been doing a sort of in-between. Let's call it a "Warm Coat". I've been letting each coat dry for about 48 hours and then using the 220 grit with a block to knock down the "nibs' and then block sanding with the red Scotch-brite pad. At 48 hours the coat is still soft enough the it clogs the sandpaper, but works well with the Scotch-brite pads.<br />
<br />
To be able to sand with sandpaper the varnish needs to be hard enough to create fine dust and not clog your paper. In my case this will take a minimum of 72 hours, maybe longer. Being I am currently at my fourth coat I'm letting the 4th coat completely dry before sanding it flat.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Varnishing</h3>
Let me just start out with, "Varnish is intimidating as hell". There are hundreds of articles on the web with horror story after horror story about applying varnish. There are 4 important rules for varnishing that I have gleaned from the web and from to talking with experienced painters. Here they are and believe me I learned them the hard way.<br />
<br />
(1) <i>How you treat the varnish in the can</i><br />
<i>(2) How you get the varnish out of the can</i><br />
<i>(3) The brush that you use</i><br />
<i>(4) Your brushing technique</i><br />
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<b><i><u>How You Treat the Varnish in the Can</u></i></b><br />
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Don't shake varnish! Varnish should always be stirred, stirred slowly enough that you don't whip it into a froth. If you shake the can or stir too vigorously you will be incorporating air into the varnish. Air in varnish is bad. You must stir varnish if you are using satin varnish as it has flattening agents that must be thoroughly incorporated.<br />
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If you are using gloss varnish you do not need to stir the varnish other than to incorporate added thinner.<br />
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<b><i><u>Decant Varnish into a Smooth Sided Container</u></i></b><br />
<br />
Do not apply varnish directly from the supply can. If you dip the brush into the can and then "scrape off" the excess on the lip of the can you will send a cascade of frothy varnish back into the can. This froth will be picked up with the next brush load, carrying a cargo of air bubble to your varnished surface of the wood. Transfer the varnish from the can into a smooth sided plastic container.<br />
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Thin varnish prior to application. I learned this the hard way. Thinning a newly opened can is impossible since there is no room for the added volume of thinner. Further thinning in the can is subject to inaccuracies since you can't easily determine how much varnish remains in the can. Only by decanting the varnish into a separate container can you accurately add the appropriate volume of thinner. The first coat of varnish should be thinned by 20% to 25%. (This does not apply if you are applying varnish over sanded flattened and epoxied wood.) Subsequent coats should be thinned by 5% to 10%. Thin after you have decanted the varnish into the application container.<br />
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Remember, the whole point of thinner in varnish in the first place is to make it easier to spread. The varnish needs to be thinned to adjust flow-out to current temperatures and humidity conditions.<br />
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By thinning varnish you are simply adjusting the viscosity of the varnish. Added thinner makes the varnish easier to apply by reducing the viscosity so that it will flow out and level better, thus allowing air bubbles to float to the surface and pop before they become encapsulated in the curing film. Brush marks will also level faster when the varnish is properly thinned.<br />
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One thing that lower temperatures in my shop contributed to is a thicker application of varnish. It has made keeping a "wet edge" difficult. I placed my can in hot water prior to starting but it just doesn't stay warm enough. Thinning will help solve this problem.<br />
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<h3>
Use a Natural Bristle Brush Made for Applying Varnish</h3>
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A varnish brush should have a good "reservoir" so as to allow you to "flow-on" a good quantity of varnish before you need to return to the container for more. Here's a contradiction to what you may hear. Never use a synthetic bristle brush or a "foam brush", or a paint pad.<br />
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A good test of a proper varnish brush is to dip the very tip of the brush into mineral spirits. If the brush wicks the mineral spirits up into the bristles, its a good brush. A "Badger Hair" brush is often recommended.<br />
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<b><i><u>Brushing Technique</u></i></b><br />
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The brushing technique is very important. The varnish should be applied by "flowing" it in one direction. Never brush back and forth! If you are right handed begin at the left of am imaginary area about 12" to 18" square. Make a single long stroke from top to bottom (across the grain). of your imaginary square applying light to moderate pressure. The bristles of your brush should flex slightly. They should not bend to the ferrule of the brush. Then, returning to the top of your initial stroke and using the same brush stroke, begin to drag from the top down. Once you have filled in your imaginary square, brush from right to left. from the dry to the wet (with the grain) to smooth and flatten the varnish.<br />
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Move the brush slow enough so as to not incorporate air bubbles into the finish. Continue in slightly overlapping pattern of brush strokes until you have covered the area. Tipping off in this fashion further levels the varnish and breaks any air bubble that may have become trapped in the finish. Again move the brush slowly. Brush only with the tips of the brush.<br />
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<br />Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-6772686183430323092015-09-17T01:19:00.000-07:002015-09-20T10:26:25.900-07:00Chironomid 101 - Part l - Chironomid Facts and Tips<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyw8ZhoBE_x_NHNta-gWYfbfe2zI1bM5u3cQHroWLygP8NNcYRVBNemfcRtho2PdDVapBqovKVW5UM2xGG9b9SVCjbVImntUWxsKJMnotYDx-ZtadLExWxN7OlPe4lfJK7kuWe4mSyUmM/s1600/832-Chironomid-fly.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5644804786508751490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyw8ZhoBE_x_NHNta-gWYfbfe2zI1bM5u3cQHroWLygP8NNcYRVBNemfcRtho2PdDVapBqovKVW5UM2xGG9b9SVCjbVImntUWxsKJMnotYDx-ZtadLExWxN7OlPe4lfJK7kuWe4mSyUmM/s400/832-Chironomid-fly.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 267px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
As they used to say in the TV show Dragnet. "Just the facts, Maam" Here's some Chironomid facts and Tips to get us started with Chironomid 101. It's an introduction to this important stillwater bug.<br />
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Chironomids are the food source eaten more often than any other. I attended Phil Rowley's Stillwater Scholl where he compared them to M&M's. You put a bowl of M&M's on a table and you just grab handfuls and keep eating. Trout do the same when they feed on chironomids. Let's look at some facts about chironomids.<br />
<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Seasonal Availability </span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Larvae are available all season long, 12 months of the year</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>The emerging pupae and adults are available two times a year. They become a main food source for stillwater trout in;</li>
</ul>
(1) April through June<br />
(2) August through October<br />
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<ul>
<li>With that said about the pupae, chironomid larvae or "bloodworms" are available for trout all year long and are a main food source for all stillwater trout all year long.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Bloodworm patterns are a good choice during low light conditions and after recent windstorms.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Chironomid Pupae patterns can also be used throughout the season as they have elongated emergence cycles. Trout will often take chironomid pupa patterns regardless of the season.</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Fishing Tips for Chironomids</span><br />
<ul>
<li>When trout are found in water 20 feet or less, use a floating line and slip indicator. Start with suspending the flies one to two feet off the bottom. make sure you are just above any weeds.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Experiment by moving the fly up one foot at a time to locate feeding fish. Sometimes 6 inches can make a difference.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>In water 15 feet or less also try using use a floating line and a long leader. This is called the "Naked Technique". Use a fly line like the Rio Indicator Line that has a orange 18" tip which will be your indicator. Takes will be seen as a movement by the orange tip rather than felt. </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>When using the "Naked Technique", your leader should be 25% longer than the water is deep.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>When using the "Naked Technique" you must balance 4 variables.</li>
</ul>
(1) Leader Length<br />
(2) Retrieve Speed<br />
(3) Pattern Weight<br />
(4) and the time to allow the pattern to sink<br />
<ul>
<li>Wind drift larva and pupa patterns by quartering across the wind and allow the ripple to swing through the water column. Watch the orange tip of the fly line for any movement.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>When fishing for chironomids in water over 20 feet deep use a full sink line, a type VI or VII and retrieve the fly vertically through the water column. Cast only the amount of line and leader as the water is deep. Count the flies down and use a shorter leader.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Remember that when presenting imitations for the chironomids larva and pupa, the retrieves must be so slow that they are almost static.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>When fishing on the surface, pay attention to whether the trout are taking skittering or stationary adults. Present your flies accordingly.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>When trout are taking chironomids on the surface consider using a soft hackle retrieved slowly through the area of rising trout.</li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Chironomid Larvae Patterns</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjugvvsdLXP-NvEQcIYTpsvi-IJzvH7aahhIKAXQR8kCmBFxTJn5iJ382zRmW5hyphenhyphenZtHuf5HLmvluUARDFnM8GwmId2E6Xg2YuZ18A71vzTbTMBnwIJtRCg7tbUV_xHcpcVC_FGZSWpad3E/s1600/Bloodworm+2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648694738523137266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjugvvsdLXP-NvEQcIYTpsvi-IJzvH7aahhIKAXQR8kCmBFxTJn5iJ382zRmW5hyphenhyphenZtHuf5HLmvluUARDFnM8GwmId2E6Xg2YuZ18A71vzTbTMBnwIJtRCg7tbUV_xHcpcVC_FGZSWpad3E/s320/Bloodworm+2.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 227px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Size</span> - 3/8" to 1" - Hook sizes #8 through #16 - A size #12 2x long is a good average size larva pattern<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Shape</span> - Slender, segmented and worm-like<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Color</span> - Many species are able to generate hemoglobin in order to survive in oxygen poor conditions.<br />
<ul>
<li>As a result scarlet red or maroon coloration is common.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Larva can generate hemoglobin as conditions dictate which affects coloration. Candy Cane schemes of red and green are common on some lakes.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Olive and bright green are other common colors</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Chironomid Pupae Patterns</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1XTXY9hjNWN0fkz3YUioTmzw8IGpM92-I7-qsgx2E65kgWv2MpZz6tFBDb80axCditIBtkVRHXGSrtEfrbccZqm3_Ponr76zGPbsiA_e0VM3UawAa6TDpXwdlGrtifYIaH7kPmBvcB0/s1600/img_chironomids_pupa.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650207233811755154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1XTXY9hjNWN0fkz3YUioTmzw8IGpM92-I7-qsgx2E65kgWv2MpZz6tFBDb80axCditIBtkVRHXGSrtEfrbccZqm3_Ponr76zGPbsiA_e0VM3UawAa6TDpXwdlGrtifYIaH7kPmBvcB0/s320/img_chironomids_pupa.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 204px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Size</span> - 3/8" to 1 inch, hook sizes #8 - #18<br />
<ul>
<li>Chironomid tend to be larger in mud bottomed, algae type lakes. Sizes #12-#8</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>In clear water lakes, Chironomids are smaller $10 -#18</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>A #12 is a average pupa size and a good place to start.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>If trout do not appear to be selective to size try using one size larger so your fly will stand out from the naturals.</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Shape</span> - Comma-like shape.<br />
<ul>
<li>Many pupa patterns use scud pupa hooks to suggest the profile</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Most patterns have a bulbous thorax, slender segmented, tapered abdomens</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>In clearer water or on lake with much angler pressure consider using slim realistic patterns.</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Colors</span> - Black, maroon, brown, olive, shades of green, tan.<br />
<ul>
<li>On dark days, use dark patterns.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>On bright days use bright patterns</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Pupae use trapped air and gases to aid pupal ascent and the adult transformation. This gives pupae a distinct silver glow.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Pupae can change color as they absorb or replenish trapped gases</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Chironomids pupae have prominent white gills. The Chaoborus pupae do not.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>Use Super White beads in algae stained waters. They tend not to fouls as much as synthetic or natural materials do.</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-weight: bold;">Chironomid Adults</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtM56v60xlH8YuSC-ZMi0GQhzclPLAPoz3YC85HCAF_FI5-dKX7gWQBYOF5ilWI9XugI8702O0NXXG2GYGoi5wNLElS6eGFpIkP1T3SU-jCPX68rYyzoLR_JxGHE7KdWjjMfYFZysmgA/s1600/Adult+Chiromomid.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5650207601748072274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBtM56v60xlH8YuSC-ZMi0GQhzclPLAPoz3YC85HCAF_FI5-dKX7gWQBYOF5ilWI9XugI8702O0NXXG2GYGoi5wNLElS6eGFpIkP1T3SU-jCPX68rYyzoLR_JxGHE7KdWjjMfYFZysmgA/s320/Adult+Chiromomid.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 161px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 188px;" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Size</span> - The adults are smaller than the corresponding pupa.<br />
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<li>Sizes #10 - #16 covers most adults</li>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Shape</span> - Similar in look to adult mosquitoes.<br />
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<li>Chironomid adults do not bite like mosquitoes.</li>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Color</span> - Colors mirror those of the pupa. recently emerged adults are bright. Their body color darkens once it hardens.Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-24550919357978442412015-05-05T08:04:00.000-07:002015-09-20T10:07:35.441-07:00The Kingfisher's First Float<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ZNHa7Lror7mcsMtFSHQbloFrBe_A837aGvVH3AxInL-jIY9rU7WktNZhblIgHPbtIFLOG7gF-lyB2CtHbOe52ECzlxFG5D3gaCVWWBKApa5RMI6IK9W-e3boVocTtka0eyGEA1KdIEs/s1600/Launch+Day+20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8ZNHa7Lror7mcsMtFSHQbloFrBe_A837aGvVH3AxInL-jIY9rU7WktNZhblIgHPbtIFLOG7gF-lyB2CtHbOe52ECzlxFG5D3gaCVWWBKApa5RMI6IK9W-e3boVocTtka0eyGEA1KdIEs/s400/Launch+Day+20.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Well, after 7 months of dedicated work, countless hours of sanding and layers of epoxy and marine spar varnish, I was able to find out if my new handmade drift boat floats. It did, and it did so better than I had dreamed of. Let me explain. I had a few concerns prior to launching the "Barca de Trucha", (Trout Boat). Little nagging questions.<br />
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First, the boat is 17 feet long from the bow to the stern. This is about 18" longer than my Hyde Low-Profile. It is also wider by about 6 inches, I was concerned that it would be a little to big for the Lower Yuba. An air craft carrier in a small bay so to speak. It isn't. It floats like a leaf, lighter and more responsive than my Hyde. Being so, makes it feel smaller, I always referred to my Hyde as a sports car. Nimble and quick to the response of the oars. The "Barca" is just as quick if not quicker.<br />
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Second, it seemed to be a work of art more than a working drift boat. Once I floated it down the river it just felt right. It will be a working drift boat come what may, scratches, dings, scrapes, it will be a fisher.<br />
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Third, Rope Seats? The rope seats look real cool, but what would they feel like, Uncomfortable? Pinching your rear? Well, definitely not your padded plastic seat. They felt fine. I wore lightweight shorts and was comfortable. The ropes will need to be tightened until they stretch out properly, but other than that definitely a passing grade.<br />
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The first float came with a sense of pride. Every piece of wood, every screw, every coat of epoxy and varnish was placed with care and thought. There is a sense of pride that is sort of like catching a fish on a fly rod you've built with the fly you tied. Now I can add "the boat I built". I've always been a craftsman and this is just another extension of that. I take pride in what I do, I do was I say, I keep my word and promises. My Mom and Dad raised me that way. This is just another mission accomplished, a plan come to fruition. I thank my Mom, Geri, for encouraging me to pursue my passions. This is is just who I am.<br />
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I am looking forward to many years of fishing in this new boat and coaxing many fish to the net. More stories, more time with good friends and family on the rivers of the west. It was worth all the time and effort! No regrets!<br />
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Photos from Launch Day</h3>
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<i><b>Ready to Head down the River</b></i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl46EdLi6DVLpCLbETvtYBruTRuBnu-S2yaxV4zoKU02tFbABiMdc6oQdBco5BxHd90k_NwFSs0N2KX17Ua3GG1RHffQFahpPPyuKMNmqsu7frJCseQdROkhs-UKUx2BQZIMPN6-Vq3hA/s1600/Launch+Day+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl46EdLi6DVLpCLbETvtYBruTRuBnu-S2yaxV4zoKU02tFbABiMdc6oQdBco5BxHd90k_NwFSs0N2KX17Ua3GG1RHffQFahpPPyuKMNmqsu7frJCseQdROkhs-UKUx2BQZIMPN6-Vq3hA/s400/Launch+Day+3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Ist ferry across the riffle</i></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_yiiEOZ1jQLV5DVfN9TW-Jxx5o47x4_Z5nOeni286AyuPoAZmJZb1BBeJVQIqU1w2R29H-IcG2igk_mb_1hXaH7mnHV3zcHzGD5PuNo7k0AcVv_lSeyGUkEKPMYVyzXfh41T8qHJPVM/s1600/Zack+the+Photog+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_yiiEOZ1jQLV5DVfN9TW-Jxx5o47x4_Z5nOeni286AyuPoAZmJZb1BBeJVQIqU1w2R29H-IcG2igk_mb_1hXaH7mnHV3zcHzGD5PuNo7k0AcVv_lSeyGUkEKPMYVyzXfh41T8qHJPVM/s400/Zack+the+Photog+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Zack the Photographer</i></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7hnOMG7IvSMC1xSI_MtqbAnoI8x2OC0YH2DgRHZbmfLm77fQvuApwQ9KJC1JMkpcVT2GKizUUqkuFDWiiXZdwwVrgroh9574Vb2QHWv3noV_IhOawFq30ASWyIyGEtcsvQA_JlpRJwmw/s1600/Launch+Day+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7hnOMG7IvSMC1xSI_MtqbAnoI8x2OC0YH2DgRHZbmfLm77fQvuApwQ9KJC1JMkpcVT2GKizUUqkuFDWiiXZdwwVrgroh9574Vb2QHWv3noV_IhOawFq30ASWyIyGEtcsvQA_JlpRJwmw/s400/Launch+Day+11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b><i>My lovely wife, Laura, enjoying the inaugural float</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Running a Chute</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Zack getting ready to take the plunge</i></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLFEH8JJB8N3EZfhTI12tpX1eWurUWSqruucInpeqGKMD_kOzuzBkSIc6HCfJLVD3TNTDIn87lsqnhXniWALirdzJZM9hr2wRg2T3HyOdKbGpnuoIq_mYkzj-7igMrq30dOPClkqC6GI/s1600/Launch+Day+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLFEH8JJB8N3EZfhTI12tpX1eWurUWSqruucInpeqGKMD_kOzuzBkSIc6HCfJLVD3TNTDIn87lsqnhXniWALirdzJZM9hr2wRg2T3HyOdKbGpnuoIq_mYkzj-7igMrq30dOPClkqC6GI/s400/Launch+Day+16.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Taking our time down the river</i></b></div>
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<b><i>Zack, Thanks for your help and encouragement along the way!</i></b></div>
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<i><b>Made it to the takeout with nothing but smiles!</b></i></div>
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Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-40214777184263357182015-04-20T16:30:00.002-07:002015-09-20T10:07:50.472-07:00Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - I'm Done<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNTc-9jfjd_0MKSV6rUoxjwzfMsoKH50l78Eh4deX-13Kius0rsBlG_oOS-QKhacG5ipLzRdBaowppzP8vynaGzX3hhi0CbDcUR9UpXj170ah_h8MHKiHUTf9B71PNNEek42mumLyC6fU/s1600/2015-04-18+15.30.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNTc-9jfjd_0MKSV6rUoxjwzfMsoKH50l78Eh4deX-13Kius0rsBlG_oOS-QKhacG5ipLzRdBaowppzP8vynaGzX3hhi0CbDcUR9UpXj170ah_h8MHKiHUTf9B71PNNEek42mumLyC6fU/s1600/2015-04-18+15.30.11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I started the "Kingfisher" build in September of 2014. Today is April 20th, 2015. It's been quite a journey. I purchased the plans from Jason Cajune and they were worth every cent! The varnish has been curing and hardening for about two weeks, The build has taken me about 7 1/2 months, not bad from what I've heard. This includes 3 weeks off to build a pole barn/garage, so the actual build time was a more like a strong six months. I have probably averaged about 40 hours a week, so I've got something like 1000 hours into it, but who's really counting. My trailer should be arriving next week, so the trip to see if it floats is about a week away. </div>
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Photo Gallery of the Kingfisher</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1H0Hk_xjTa2Z79AaFiaYqlaHCqX4vXFr6zCQrbHRmbKePNKONkmaul_BFXzWAmlP9IK7q2SjI8ejz09rYkKHovhXyJNEgqPfoMzfOe1T_T7u7wJ0UYuT7ZRM820_BC26qQdL7nBYj3E/s1600/2015-04-18+15.47.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1H0Hk_xjTa2Z79AaFiaYqlaHCqX4vXFr6zCQrbHRmbKePNKONkmaul_BFXzWAmlP9IK7q2SjI8ejz09rYkKHovhXyJNEgqPfoMzfOe1T_T7u7wJ0UYuT7ZRM820_BC26qQdL7nBYj3E/s1600/2015-04-18+15.47.31.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The finished boat is 17'0" long. It has a beam of 6'6". The width at the bottom is 4'10". It should float high and dry and be real stable.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Ws47fz7QT0_bzRLKXkqzTp7KXDAHjUsPG5RqaC3gVQir9GSK1QbDIymBl3tY6iQL3ykmwyeha-GUa-OEETouR9WrCsubGlR0phVfvDyvCCyCvDc8BhzdsIhWzW9t5z2QTEczt_pSA3c/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Ws47fz7QT0_bzRLKXkqzTp7KXDAHjUsPG5RqaC3gVQir9GSK1QbDIymBl3tY6iQL3ykmwyeha-GUa-OEETouR9WrCsubGlR0phVfvDyvCCyCvDc8BhzdsIhWzW9t5z2QTEczt_pSA3c/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.01.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>I had a decal made with my "Fly Fishing Traditions" logo imprinted on it. The sides are 3/8" Okoume plywood that have about 3 coats of epoxy and layers of fiberglass cloth. The main body of the boat is painted on the outside with "Blue Water Marine Paint". It is a silicone copolymer topside enamel. The color is "Super White. The bottom and 4" up the sides at the chines are coated with "Linex" bedliner, smooth Black. The gunnels are black oak with 3 coats of epoxy and then 6 coats of flat "Last n Last" satin varnish.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3D_PZTt24H9yhabEpS8UHalX5fwR71DyBzLpU7UwU9YeMhOxsPHbKgXTsoh7dABujVe0JRNHNu3Msrv2CKY3oWeWLlc9IyjaVAVduYT6WHYMNFQkxnhJb8ohqS4oRhqcXseNsj3mY5i4/s1600/2015-04-18+15.47.29+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3D_PZTt24H9yhabEpS8UHalX5fwR71DyBzLpU7UwU9YeMhOxsPHbKgXTsoh7dABujVe0JRNHNu3Msrv2CKY3oWeWLlc9IyjaVAVduYT6WHYMNFQkxnhJb8ohqS4oRhqcXseNsj3mY5i4/s1600/2015-04-18+15.47.29+cropped.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The transom is "Rounded". Constructing the rounded transom was the most intimidating part of the construction. My plans had a squared off transom so I had to figure this out myself. It was bent around a form using 3 layers of 1/8" Okoume plywood. The rounded transom has 3 coats of epoxy and 6 coats of varnish. It turned out great!</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhutPezoQBxeX9rBUb9Ulxe02QT-qeP6nxWqOIAp5pZstPihY0dHjd8l0JOthO5n3YPH9Edun5CpuMiH14gcgqOmHZ37kQlOBSSuyoS-cQ9oEqss-hLxXyOwWbH8Cf56IlaufLjAxEg0EU/s1600/2015-04-18+15.46.37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhutPezoQBxeX9rBUb9Ulxe02QT-qeP6nxWqOIAp5pZstPihY0dHjd8l0JOthO5n3YPH9Edun5CpuMiH14gcgqOmHZ37kQlOBSSuyoS-cQ9oEqss-hLxXyOwWbH8Cf56IlaufLjAxEg0EU/s1600/2015-04-18+15.46.37.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The interior of the boat has decks and sides of Okoume mahogany plywood. The rowers seat and the fore and aft seats are made from white oak. The floors, dry boxes and the lower portion of the sides are coated with bed liner that was applied with a roller. The oars are Sawyer square topped counter balanced oars,</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj5mtRmFYgFtrcOaInt6Egmc1xBWBc9zGYD-qiEQi13Mgk67VYPf9opnL6eeEc9Ts1IHeZNm0OH8xw4TAKqT0_bvwcEWhgWOREbpD1M_nO0hEwv3eyCTnGNALARW8UMsKuqRXZKioZiIo/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj5mtRmFYgFtrcOaInt6Egmc1xBWBc9zGYD-qiEQi13Mgk67VYPf9opnL6eeEc9Ts1IHeZNm0OH8xw4TAKqT0_bvwcEWhgWOREbpD1M_nO0hEwv3eyCTnGNALARW8UMsKuqRXZKioZiIo/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.49.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The fore and aft seats are made with white oak. The base of the seat was steam bent using 3/16" x 2 1/2" strips. The seats have 2 coats of epoxy and 6 coats of varnish. The rope for the seats are 3/8" diameter double braided poly. The seats are mounted on "Springfield" swivel bases with a bracket that allows them to be removed.</i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQDJJoob10vaguEe3vTKdo3R14O35Bb7t05QlnGXT2TiIpR_PTr80E7zewzin6FoczpMsG6TB4QdzXW0Y_Xr9T9pGt6DbnWdSAsNdORWwgHglupJPpO6wM5tVr_YrwxIWdeHjdtanNnM/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQDJJoob10vaguEe3vTKdo3R14O35Bb7t05QlnGXT2TiIpR_PTr80E7zewzin6FoczpMsG6TB4QdzXW0Y_Xr9T9pGt6DbnWdSAsNdORWwgHglupJPpO6wM5tVr_YrwxIWdeHjdtanNnM/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.20.jpg" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i>The rowers seat slides in a track and can be adjusted forward and backward. Rubber retainers hold the rowers seat in position. The deck in the background has a dry storage box that is accessible by opening the hatch doors. There are dry boxes on each side. </i></div>
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<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixh4Dto86837qMVDL0ismTmrFVC37mym7FII_FSomxcEqWu6LdlOA-8zJsEkxfk1bl7qA6t50PAZRg3eV9Wnkm2Kva9-eLp8vfAELwo813_gg_T62Os9Bj4C6rTAOiu5Y4Ut1sv-OFvE0/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixh4Dto86837qMVDL0ismTmrFVC37mym7FII_FSomxcEqWu6LdlOA-8zJsEkxfk1bl7qA6t50PAZRg3eV9Wnkm2Kva9-eLp8vfAELwo813_gg_T62Os9Bj4C6rTAOiu5Y4Ut1sv-OFvE0/s1600/2015-04-18+15.44.42.jpg" width="240" /></a></i></div>
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<i>The rear knee brace is made by laminating 3 layers of 1/8" Okoume mahogany plywood. I constructed a steam box to steam the plywood and then placed them in a plywood form to conform to the desired shape. I call it a "George Jetson" knee brace. There are two cup holders integrated in the middle section.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTc0bkdQKnpcXQlcFBT35wlFQJooYCWy5NaD4Aa8HdOxODKiB__uUzZi7Z2LtuJmUTm1FHPDxyTQO8gyLzTTlXZVAL_7qqvTserfPPSLcVqJzgsHdJAo5BjDn3CQih7CG5yKAC0Koi3ao/s1600/2015-04-18+15.45.20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTc0bkdQKnpcXQlcFBT35wlFQJooYCWy5NaD4Aa8HdOxODKiB__uUzZi7Z2LtuJmUTm1FHPDxyTQO8gyLzTTlXZVAL_7qqvTserfPPSLcVqJzgsHdJAo5BjDn3CQih7CG5yKAC0Koi3ao/s1600/2015-04-18+15.45.20.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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At the rounded transom there is a wooden plate with a handle integrated into it that reinforces the transom and is where the anchor rope runs through the hull. There are two pulleys that are lined up with the hole that runs through the transom that guides the anchor rope.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3wyQ6RNztcRyztlz-h3_p6d6X7mwmeVukf0DlHIWJf4nuJYnTD1azEbt4rYUtyFg3shNYimbaryebTFtZqCj4-UWW2kkhzDdXScF2Qfty3zkRoKdxMDX0Mk2KZeb1oPszXqcI0mfOiSs/s1600/2015-04-18+15.45.40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3wyQ6RNztcRyztlz-h3_p6d6X7mwmeVukf0DlHIWJf4nuJYnTD1azEbt4rYUtyFg3shNYimbaryebTFtZqCj4-UWW2kkhzDdXScF2Qfty3zkRoKdxMDX0Mk2KZeb1oPszXqcI0mfOiSs/s1600/2015-04-18+15.45.40.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>There are 4 hatches that access the dry storage boxes. two at the starboard and two at the port side. The dry boxes ate about 5 feet long. The cup holders are sealed t keep the dry storage boxes dry. The foot rest for the rower is adjustable to 4 different positions. There are two positions for the oar locks.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgv_DFO2Q0bU4v10Lbicq46HKPy4NtLm46_kvAty-YSkjkc7wtL1AahC_KoVaQ0FYxYMijgt_ODcUPgJYqXb48kIu7gCA4X2kuQKdwmLbD8UoWOSenbUOaEnkL4jSD77gFFLm1casAf6g/s1600/2015-04-18+15.46.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgv_DFO2Q0bU4v10Lbicq46HKPy4NtLm46_kvAty-YSkjkc7wtL1AahC_KoVaQ0FYxYMijgt_ODcUPgJYqXb48kIu7gCA4X2kuQKdwmLbD8UoWOSenbUOaEnkL4jSD77gFFLm1casAf6g/s1600/2015-04-18+15.46.21.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>The front seat has a large pedestal with storage underneath. You can see the circular lamination of the seats. There are two cup holders tucked up in the bow section. There is a triangular casting deck to catch your fly line when you are fishing.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJPcBvLjwNeX9dg0WiIAOfL52VX2j5ujDQGKpzgD0DUSsZjUwf9zmItsyPx5MdFkQ975n2c4zGo_vgdcJjnjquvTAjgKDls084gBGm9-v8uVZcahE3fY7KIctUfKq9wbZARg-JHdpiB8/s1600/2015-04-18+15.45.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyJPcBvLjwNeX9dg0WiIAOfL52VX2j5ujDQGKpzgD0DUSsZjUwf9zmItsyPx5MdFkQ975n2c4zGo_vgdcJjnjquvTAjgKDls084gBGm9-v8uVZcahE3fY7KIctUfKq9wbZARg-JHdpiB8/s1600/2015-04-18+15.45.56.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>An ice chest fits snugly into the pedestal under the front seat.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbMEptnq3s2sb751Gz6unrXRXlnjj5Te_Tp1tyY5fbV0wkGmxtHxIxF6uLOH_aBZn4Dbze3OvJqJLNScVSv_9zojeqI6HC5rbaHFhT0kU5v8ECru_z5NvJZdSvru3FaeaYOS8qoFuJJE/s1600/2015-04-18+15.48.20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAbMEptnq3s2sb751Gz6unrXRXlnjj5Te_Tp1tyY5fbV0wkGmxtHxIxF6uLOH_aBZn4Dbze3OvJqJLNScVSv_9zojeqI6HC5rbaHFhT0kU5v8ECru_z5NvJZdSvru3FaeaYOS8qoFuJJE/s1600/2015-04-18+15.48.20.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>There are rod holders tucked under the main deck on each side, starboard and port side. You can store two rods on each side for a total of 4 rods. This is a spey rod broken down in half. The rod holders will take 10 foot rods fully assembled.</i></div>
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All I need is a trailer and it will be a fishing machine. Can't wait!!!</div>
Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-67624507777179995582015-03-24T16:17:00.003-07:002015-09-20T10:08:17.762-07:00Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Painting the Hull<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFKWTu-WvUexUuSbbLNhOQUi8ff_cLoF2DhtJYMJU-0z9xqDYcvTW_rfBTZE80VAXTZN5FwIc19qqU23RtYr3alF8VXR6WT5luYhZAPRLa69KC-ZRzUIsNKpr-ljFgSNZO4oYbQywUMg/s1600/2015-01-18+14.25.24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFKWTu-WvUexUuSbbLNhOQUi8ff_cLoF2DhtJYMJU-0z9xqDYcvTW_rfBTZE80VAXTZN5FwIc19qqU23RtYr3alF8VXR6WT5luYhZAPRLa69KC-ZRzUIsNKpr-ljFgSNZO4oYbQywUMg/s1600/2015-01-18+14.25.24.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now that I've got the boat upside down, all prepped and masked I'm ready to start painting the hull. I'm using a one part paint. It is a polyurethane enamel. It will provide a hard protective coating and with super high gloss and has very good color retention and is durable. The paint was manufactured by Blue Marine. I decided on their Super White Color.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztIxQRuGRn7qZPjGHvoKnvcaLv4v02AmKDcGY8ZX5f2fvVc1g_oITrNhjd8QOPPnp-H5IJr6M0TojhADCSj-7MS0m1N0FhjLfesZoqIqSt8ldblAzLpWXPIKKpRQ-ZIVBkzn_euGQfFs/s1600/Blue+Marine+Paint.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgztIxQRuGRn7qZPjGHvoKnvcaLv4v02AmKDcGY8ZX5f2fvVc1g_oITrNhjd8QOPPnp-H5IJr6M0TojhADCSj-7MS0m1N0FhjLfesZoqIqSt8ldblAzLpWXPIKKpRQ-ZIVBkzn_euGQfFs/s1600/Blue+Marine+Paint.gif" width="171" /></a></div>
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<b><i>I'm using "Blue WaterMarine Paint", which is a one part polyurethane enamel. </i></b></div>
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<b><i>The color is 'Super White'</i></b></div>
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The first step is to get everything I'll need to get the job done. Here's the list;</div>
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<ul>
<li>Blue Water Marine Paint, Super White</li>
<li>Half gallon plastic container</li>
<li>Stir stick</li>
<li>Toluene for thinning - 1 ounce per quart. 5-10%</li>
<li>1 pint plastic measuring cup</li>
<li>Excellent quality brush with soft tips</li>
<li>6" foam roller and frame</li>
<li>Disposable paint tray</li>
<li>Clean Rags</li>
<li>Tack Cloth</li>
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The first order of business was to re-vacuum the areas to be painted. I then used the two rag method and wiped down the surface with Acetone. Once wiped down, I used a tack cloth to do the final cleanup of the surfaces to remove any remaining dust particles.<br />
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Next I opened the quart can of paint and pour it into the half gallon plastic container. Measure 1 ounce of Toluene into the small pint plastic measuring cup and pour it into the larger container with the paint. Use the stir stick and stir for 10 minutes. Yeah, really 10 minutes.</div>
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Next set up the roller pan, roller frame and foam roller.Get the kind that have rounded edges at the ends. Get your paint brush.</div>
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Time for Painting</h3>
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The method for applying the paint is referred to as "Rolling and Tipping". the paint will be applied with the "Roller" and then "Tipped" with the brush. I'm right handed so I decided to work from right to left. I will be brushing left to right, which is opposite to the way I'm working. This is important. When you are "Tip" the paint you always want to go from the dry area back onto the painted area.</div>
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The boat will take two coats with a hand sanding to 320 grit between coats.</div>
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Here's how the first coat is done.</h3>
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<li>The fist thing to do is to load the roller with paint and then roll it repeatedly on the roller pan to have a loaded foam roller but not overloaded. I count to at least ten strokes each time I load or reload the foam roller. </li>
<li>Starting at the transom and working to the left I roll out the paint working to the left with vertical stokes. Press hard on the roller to squeeze out all the paint. If you don't the paint will go on too thick. I work to the left until I am loosing coverage with the paint.</li>
<li>I then work the roller horizontally to spread the paint out evenly to the left. </li>
<li>I finish this application with a vertical roll at the left edge to create a straight vertical line. You will end up with a vertical line with dry surface on the left of the line and paint on the right.</li>
<li>One roller load covers an area about 24"tall by about 1 foot wide.</li>
<li>The paint will have lots of air bubbles in it and should be a thin even coating. </li>
<li>Put the roller down in the tray and stat brushing from left to right. Start at the top and brush horizontally.</li>
<li>Place the brush on the dry portion of the vertical line on the left and brush to the right with a light touch. </li>
<li>Lift the tips off the paint at the end of each stroke. Feather the paint out.</li>
<li>Continue the same method from top to bottom using horizontal passes.</li>
<li>Start back at the top and repeat.</li>
<li>That's it. Repeat the same steps all the way around the boat, move quickly and efficiently and keep a wet edge.</li>
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Prepping for the second coat</h3>
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Once the paint had dried thoroughly, which was about 48 hours in my case as it was getting below 50 degrees in my shop at night, I hand sanded the surface with 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding pad. I then used a 320 grit Scotchbrite pad and hit the surface once more. </div>
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I then vacuumed the surface and finished up with a tack cloth.<br />
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Just repeat the same process as the first coat.<br />
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Summary</h3>
I'm really happy with the paint job. It's not perfect like a spray finish but it has that hand made look to it. A few brush marks here and there but I think a job well done.<br />
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<br />Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-58372482932943405292015-03-08T18:20:00.000-07:002015-09-20T11:25:20.814-07:00Casting Around the Clock<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It’s time to add some presentation casts to your arsenal. The three casts that are the basis of good presentations are the "Wiggle Cast", the "Reach Cast" and the combination of the two, the "Wiggle Reach Cast". We can use these presentation casts to start “Fishing around the Clock”. This is a descriptive term for the ability to present the fly from any angle to a fish in moving water.<br />
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Right now on the Lower Yuba River we are starting to get decent hatches of PMD’s. Most of the time you’ll be presenting PMD duns and emergers on water that is at least somewhat smooth. This requires delicate rods, light lines and long leaders. A 5 weight is a good all around choice. Extend your leader to 12 to 15 feet long which includes tippet at least 2 to 4 feet long. Use delicate tippets like 5x. Use a "Duncan Loop" or an "Open Mono Loop Knot" to attach your flies. I like throwing "Double Dries, using a dun pattern and trailing an emerger about 18" or 20" behind. If the fish are really spooky I clip off the trailer.<br />
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You will need to present your flies without alarming your prey. You don’t want the fish to scatter from your line, leader and fly sailing over their heads and smacking down onto the water in their cone of vision. To be successful you must put the fly right onto the trout’s feeding lane without alarming them. How do we solve this problem? This is where putting "Fishing around the Clock" really pays off.<br />
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Think of your position in relation to the trout you are stalking as a position around the clock with the trout in the center (See Illustration Above). You will be somewhere around the outside of the circle at a moderate casting range. Not too close, not too far. There is probably a best place to make your presentation. Your position is critical. The type of presentation cast you will need to make will differ from what position around the clock you are stationed.<br />
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<b>Presenting from Downstream</b><br />
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If you‘re in the downward third of the clock 4:00, 5:00, 7:00 & 8 o’clock, you will be making your cast to the trout up and across stream. This will require an slight upstream, “Reach Cast” or more advanced casts, the “Positive or Negative Curve Cast”. We'll get to the Curve Casts at a later time. Using either of these casts will enable the trout to see the fly first, with the leader just seconds after it has decided to take your fly. This is the plan anyway. A word of caution, the downstream position is the hardest to accomplish a delicate presentation over selectively rising trout.<br />
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If you’re positioned in the 6 o’clock position this is even harder. You will need to present the fly in such a way that the leader attached to the fly doesn’t land right on the trout's head. As described above, it’s like throwing a small rock on the trout’s head, no good. You need to use a big “Reach Mend” to have the leader angling towards the bank which will enable the fly to be presented first. <br />
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<b>Presenting From Directly Across </b><br />
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When you find yourself in a position to present your fly from directly across from the trout, this would be from the 3:00 or the 9:00 position you will want to add the “Reach Cast”. Aim your cast directly at the place you want the fly to land, ideally two to four feet upstream from the trout. As the straight line cast is delivered and starts to unfold towards the target, tip the rod over in the upstream direction and "reach" upstream. This is really an “Aerial Reach Mend”. When the fly lands, follow the drift with the rod tip. This will keep the fly from dragging and the fly will enter the trout’s window ahead of the leader and line.<br />
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<b>Presenting From Upstream</b><br />
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When presenting your fly to trout feeding on mayfly duns and emergers, probably the best position to take on smooth water conditions, is at an angle upstream from the trout. This would be from 1:00, 2:00, 10:00 and 11 o’clock. It definitely works best when you’re off to the side a bit. This is where the “Wiggle Cast” really excels. Aim about two to four feet upstream from the feeding fish. As you deliver the cast wiggle or wobble the rod tip back and forth horizontally as the line lays out. This will result in the line landing on the water in a series of serpentine curves. As the fly floats downstream toward the trout, the curves will feed out for a frag free drift.<br />
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Once you've mastered the "Wiggle Cast" you can add the "Reach Wiggle" which is doing both. This works especially well if you have heavier currents between you and the targeted trout. To execute the Reach Wiggle Cast you deliver the forward cast as normal, as the forward cast is furling out toward the target, tip the rod upstream for the reach mend and at the same time add the horizontal wobbles of the tip to add wiggles to the line. This may take a little time to get down, but it is worth the practice.<br />
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If the trout refuses the fly on either of these presentation casts, tip your rod toward the side or the bank after it has passed the trout. Let the current swing the fly well away from the trout before you pick up to cast again. <br />
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<b>Presenting From Directly Upstream</b><br />
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When presenting the fly from directly upstream from the 12:00 position you typically only get one chance. If the fly is refused the leader and then the line follows and you can’t lift them off the water without spooking the run. You really want to avoid this presentation if possible. If you can't move more to the side and this is your only play, you can use the wiggle cast from this position.<br />
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The “Puddle Cast” is more accurate then the Wiggle cast and you may want to try it. The “Puddle Cast” is executed by throwing a high inclining cast on the forward stroke and then immediately dropping the rod tip. This will result in killing the forward momentum of the forward cast and cause it to puddle down to the water in a series of “S” shaped curves. Again if possible, it is best used from the 12:30 to 1:00 or the 11:00 to 11:30 position and only from the 12:00 position if absolutely necessary.<br />
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Learn the different presentation casts are when and where to use them and you’ll soon be catching those difficult trout.Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-13417669953937353322015-02-19T10:37:00.000-08:002015-09-20T11:27:05.075-07:00The Five Essentials of a Great Fly Cast<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhngTW8dNqnChUEzl9HCSc1unm_rnaqRZB09UHdDP4aGCVo84k75IIxZH_vpYMQRYqwXHDvgkOhEVfYoh8G5hzyaaFBn0svp4hpoIQuuHnXjmjnMSVj45r6Xe-cXGQHcVjDNhfu9b2YQ/s1600/adjustments4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhngTW8dNqnChUEzl9HCSc1unm_rnaqRZB09UHdDP4aGCVo84k75IIxZH_vpYMQRYqwXHDvgkOhEVfYoh8G5hzyaaFBn0svp4hpoIQuuHnXjmjnMSVj45r6Xe-cXGQHcVjDNhfu9b2YQ/s320/adjustments4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A big mistake that many anglers make is that they only practice their casting when they go out fishing. When you have a fly tied on you are concentrating on finding and catching fish not practicing a casting stroke. Fly casting is like golf in that the people that become very good golfers spent a lot of time practicing before they go out and play. It’s the repetition that improves their game. Remember fishing is not called practicing and you must practice your casting stroke before you head out fishing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Practice! Practice! Practice!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><u><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The Five Essentials<o:p></o:p></span></u></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">There are a number of fairly easy principals that apply to all fly casts. These principals are the same whether you are casting a 4 weight or a 9 weight rod. They all apply to maintaining great casting form and throwing tight loops.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The following 5 Essentials for a Good Cast are the essentials that are taught with the FFF Certified Casting Professional program. Mastering these principals will make you a better fly caster. Remember an efficient cast is the one that delivers that fly to it target with the least amount of energy expended. I like to refer to this as having good form.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">There are many benefits to achieving good form including increased accuracy and increased distance. It takes very little effort to increase you distance as long as you have good form. Improved control, gives you the ability to execute achieve more beneficial presentation casts. Also, when an angler casts efficiently, fatigue is reduced as is the potential for strain of your shoulder, forearm and wrist.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Take some time in your weekly routine and find a nice stretch of grass in your yard, school or park and practice these “5 Essentials”. I’d also recommend purchasing the DVD “Casts That Catch Fish” by “On the Fly Productions” and watching it closely. </span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Do both and you will soon become a really proficient fly caster and throwing great loops.</span></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Essential #1 – Eliminate Slack<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The first essential focuses on keeping slack in your line to a minimum. This means that the line should be kept under tension at all times during the cast. There are many problems associated with slack line. The most common is that the rod won’t begin to load or it will unload prematurely. Another problem with having slack in the system is that some portion of the casting stroke is going to be robbed of efficiency by having to tension up the excess slack line again before attempting to get the rod to load in mid stroke.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">An example of managing slack is the simple act of lifting the line off the water. If you start with the rod tip low and you strip out all the slack and tension things up, as soon as you raise the rod up you are starting to load it and accelerate the fly line. This is good! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Alternately, if you start with your rod tip high with heap of slack on the water in front of you, you have to move the fly rod quite a way to take all that slack out. You’re likely to run out of casting stroke causing the loop to collapse on your head. This is bad!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The elimination of slack is also effected by timing which brings us to “Essential # 2”.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Essential # 2 – Timing<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">At the beginning and end of each stroke there is a pause just long enough to let the line fully straighten out in the air behind you before you start the stroke in the opposite direction. That pause needs to be directly proportional to the amount of line you have outside the rod tip.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The longer the line you have outside your rod tip, the longer it’s going to take the line to straighten out fully in the air. There is a simple rule or mantra we need to remember.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Long Line = Long Pause<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Medium Line = Medium Pause<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Short Line = Short Pause<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">There are a few things you can do to check to see if your timing is correct or not. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;"><b><i>Number One.</i></b> Probably the easiest thing to do is just to look over your shoulder and see the line straightening out behind you. Take a peak as the line unfurls behind you. Watch and wait.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;"><b><i>Number Two.</i></b> If your timing is too short, it’s likely you are going to hear that whip-cracking noise. This is the one where you will be losing flies when you are fishing. You normally are going to hear this on your backcast behind you. If your timing is way too short, you’re going to be introducing a lot of slack into the system, the rod is going to unload and the line is going to collapse in a heap around your ears.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;"><b><i>Number Three.</i></b> Alternatively if your timing is too slow, and you are pausing too long, gravity is going to take over and your line is going to fall to the ground or water behind you. When practicing that’s usually going to mean that you’re going to end up hooking the grass behind you. If you were fishing you’d be snagging the rocks and bushes behind you and you’re going to lose more flies.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">What is Right? By contrast you are going to know when you timing is right, when you’ll actually start to feel a little tug on the tip of the fly rod as the taunt line starts to bend and load the rod. A loaded rod is simply a bent rod. The rod bends against the weight and inertia of the fly line. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i><span style="line-height: 115%;">“Note” Learning to load and unload a fly rod efficiently is probably the single most important aspect of learning to fly cast.</span></i></b><i><span style="line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Essential Number Three – The Variable Casting Stroke<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The casting stroke can be thought of as the total distance the rod tip moves through during each stroke. This is the path of the rod tip. Think of the distance in a straight line of the rod tip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The casting arc can be thought of as the angle the rod or the rod butt travels through each stroke. Think of a protractor or a pie of pie.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The total stroke incorporates the sort of piston like movement of your forearm. The backwards and forward movement of the rod is call “translation” (the distance in a straight line). The rotation at either end with the wrist is called “rotation” (base of the casting arc). Those two things combined make up a casting stroke. As mentioned you can think of this casting stroke and visualize it as a piece of pie. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">One key to performing really nice loops is to get that rod tip moving in as straight a line as possible. In order to do that you’ve got to employ a casting arc that accommodates the bend you have in the rod. Put another way the longer line you have out the longer your casting arc is going to have to be or a larger piece of pie.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">This is a vital concept that you have to get your head around. It’s called the “Variable Casting Stroke”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">For instance a short cast of say 15 feet is going to be performed with a short casting stroke. A small piece of pie. A medium cast of say 30 feet is going to be performed with a medium casting stroke. A medium piece of pie. While a longer cast of say, 45 feet, is going to have a longer casting stroke. A big piece of pie. You hungry yet?<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">There is a simple rule that ties this all together.</span><br />
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<b><i><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Long Line = Long Stroke<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Medium Line = Medium Stroke<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Short Line = Short Stroke<o:p></o:p></span></i></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Tailing loops result from too narrow a casting arc. Big wide open loops are caused by too wide of a casting stroke.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">At this point, it is time to put two of the essentials together. We previously talked about pause and timing.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><i><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Short Line + Short Stroke (Small Piece of Pie) + Short pause<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Medium Line + Medium Stroke (Medium Piece of Pie) + Medium pause<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Long Line + Long Stroke (Big Piece of Pie) + Long Pause<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Essential Number 4 – Application of Power<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The fourth essential has to do with application of power. The power should be applied smoothly throughout the stroke. By that we mean from the moment you start, right through to the stop, power should be applied smoothly. This is called “constant acceleration”. Start slowly and finish fast. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Think about throwing a dart. You start slow, accelerate to the point you stop and release the dart to the target. If you do it right, bulls eye.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Another good one is to imagine a ripe tomato placed on the tip of your fly rod. If you wanted to throw the tomato forward in front of you would have to accelerate the tip forward slowly and progressively to a stop to fling the tomato forward or the tip would slice through the tomato and end up on your head.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The next question is “How much power do you need to apply?” The answer almost always is, “Just enough power to nicely aerialize the line and allow it to turn over.” No more, no less. Many casters use far too much power in their stroke, and it’s probably one of the most common faults in fly casting. It’s also one of the main causes for tailing loops. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Try taking some power out of your casts and you will greatly improve your loops. Work on “Constant Acceleration or Progressive Power”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Essential #5 – Straight Line Path<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The fifth and last essential is to maintain a straight line path of the rod tip. Remember, the line always follows the rod tip, therefore if you can keep the rod tip traveling in a really nice straight line and employ crisp absolute stops, you’re going to get really nice loops. This Essential #5 is very closely related to essential number 3 which was the “Variable Casting Arc.” <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Straight Line Tip Path + Rod Tip Stopped High = Tight Loops<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">In most cases a tight loop is desirable. A tight loop is much more aerodynamically efficient than a large rounded loop. A tight loop is easier to control and also much more accurate. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Large Convex Tip Path – Large Round Loops<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Large open loops are much more difficult to control and are more air and wind resistant. Large rounded loops are created when we scribe a convex arch (an upward arch) with the rod tip.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;">Tip: </span></b><span style="line-height: 115%;">If you find yourself getting caught up in the grass behind you, it’s a sure sign that you are dropping your rod tip far too far back on your backcast. Try casting back higher, aiming your cast high up in the sky on the backcast and this should clear this up.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Concave Tip Path = Closed or Tailing Loops<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Another path the rod tip can travel is the concave path (up down and up). The concave rod tip path can leads to closed or tailing loops which can end up with tangles and flies hitting the rod.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="line-height: 115%;">Stopping the Rod</span></b><span style="line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><i><span style="line-height: 115%;">The stop is the single most important aspect in becoming an expert caster</span></i></b><b><span style="line-height: 115%;">.</span></b><span style="line-height: 115%;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The more efficient and crisper you can make the stops, the more effective and efficient your loops are going to be. The straight line path of the rod tip and a crisp efficient stop is what governs loop shape. The crisper and more complete that you can make the rod stop, the better your loops are going to be. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Although it almost sounds counter intuitive, crisp stops can be achieved without overpowering the cast. Many beginners find this a difficult concept to understand and try to put too much power into the stroke thinking that they are going to get a hard crisp stop by doing so. It just isn’t necessary. </span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Practice with the minimum power, maintaining constant acceleration of power and then apply crisp, tight stops and you will get really good loops.</span><span style="font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 12pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-43037292307388844222015-01-19T09:26:00.001-08:002015-09-20T10:08:34.151-07:00Kingfisher Drift Boat - Prepping the Hull for PaintingIt's time to get ready to paint the hull, I've done about all I can do on the interior of the boat and it's time to work on the outside for a while, This will entail flipping the boat upside down to work on. To get ready for painting the hull I had do do quite a bit of work prior to getting it done.<br />
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<b><i>Getting a little ahead of myself. Here's the hull after it was painted.</i></b></div>
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The critical path went something like this<br />
<ol>
<li>Flip the Boat over</li>
<li>Sand or use a cabinet scrapper to prep the bottom of the gunnels</li>
<li>Flow coat the underneath side of the gunnels once they are prepped.</li>
<li>Run a fillet of epoxy peanut butter at the junction of the gunnels to the sides.</li>
<li>Run another flow coat of epoxy on the underside of the gunnels and coat the fillet</li>
<li>Sand and flow coat the rounded transom with it's last coat of epoxy</li>
<li>Finish sand and the underside of the gunnel, the sides and the rounded transom progressively to 220 grit.</li>
<li>Mask off the gunnels and the rounded transom to get ready for painting the hull.</li>
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<h3>
Flipping the Boat</h3>
I enlisted the help of three friends to flip the boat over. It has been residing right side up on a 4' x 10' table with rolling casters. The first task was getting the boat on the floor of the shop. I worked the boat to one end of the table. Imagine launching a boat from a trailer. Once I got the stern on the floor we just lifted the bow and slid the table out from under the boat. I had furniture blankets on the floor. The gunnels are coated with at least two coats of epoxy but I still wanted to have blankets under anything on the boat that contacted the floor. The steps went sort of like this.<br />
<ul>
<li>Place furniture blankets on the floor in position so that as the boat is lifted up on one side and supported on one gunnel (half-way flipped) the blankets are under the spots of the center section of the gunnel. Pretty much in the center of the boat at the oar locks.</li>
<li>I also placed furniture blankets that are folded up in multiple layers under the stem and transom so that when it is flipped it is cushioned under these areas.</li>
<li>Two people are on one side of the boat and two are on the other.</li>
<li>The boat is lifted by two people so it is resting on one gunnel, basically half flipped. The other two people help support the boat in the vertical position.</li>
<li>It is then tilted over to the upside down position and supported by the two people on the other side of the boat.</li>
<li>Once the boat is flipped and is resting on the floor, lift the bow up and slide extended sawhorses, about 5 1/2' long, underneath so the bow is supported by both gunnels. Cover the tops of the sawhorses with padded materials. I used old towels.</li>
<li>Repeat the same procedure for the stern of the boat.</li>
<li>The boat should now be flipped upside down and resting on the padded extended sawhorse.</li>
<li>Ready to go to work.</li>
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<h3>
Prepping the Gunnels and Rounded Transom for Flow Coating</h3>
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One problem when flow coating the gunnels when the boat is right side up, is that it is almost impossible not to have drips or runs of epoxy on the underneath side of the gunnels. I found that the best approach is to use fast set hardener in small batches and tend it until you can't mess with it anymore. Even doing this I had some runs and drips. The best way of getting rid of these drips and runs on the underneath side of the gunnels is to use a cabinet scrapper. The scrapper removes the material you need to remove quickly and efficiently. Once the runs and drips are knocked down I then final sanded them by hand. I used 120 grit followed by 150 grit followed by 220 grit. They turned out pretty darned nice. <b><i>Note: Remember to use cabinet scrappers to do the dirty work.</i></b></div>
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I finish sanded the rounded transom next to get it ready for its last flow coat of epoxy. Most of the rounded transom will not get painted and the mahogany plywood will be varnished.<br />
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<b><i>This photo shows the detailed and sanded underneath side of the gunnels and the epoxy fillet at the junction of the gunnels to the sides.</i></b></div>
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<h3>
Flow Coating the Gunnels and Rounded Transom</h3>
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Once the underneath side of the gunnels were sanded it was time to flow coat them. I masked off the gunnels at the center of the 1/4" round over all around the boat. I didn't want the epoxy to run back down the face of the gunnels. I also flow coated the rounded transom. This is basically the last of the flow coating of epoxy on the entire boat. Wow, it's been a long time coming.</div>
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<h3>
Sanding the Sides, Gunnels and Rounded Transom</h3>
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Now that the flow coating was completed on the hull it was time to finish sand the entire exterior of the boat. I used a random orbital sander and sanded the sides to 220 grit. Being that the rounded transom is curved I used a flexible pad and hand sanded it down to 220 grit. I hand sanded the underneath side of the gunnels to 220 grit.</div>
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Clean Up and Masking</h3>
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The last steps were to vacuum all the surfaces and then wipe the surfaces down with acetone and then start masking. Once the surfaces were vacuumed, I used the two rag method for prepping the surfaces. One rag is used to wipe down the surface and a clean rag follows.</div>
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Now it's masking time. I used 1/4" wide green masking tape that is used in auto body shops to mask the line that I will paint to. Once the 1/4' tape is laid down I use a masking machine with 3M 3/4" blue tape and 12" wide masking paper that comes on a roll. I taped off about 12" from the 1/4" green tape along the gunnels, the rounded transom and the Linex material that wraps up the sides about 4".</div>
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After the sides were masked to isolate the portion of the boat to be painted I checked to see that the tape was set tight at the paint line.<br />
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<b><i>You can see the green 1/4" wide masking tape at the line to be painted. It is taped to the Linex that runs 4" up the sides. I then used a masking machine to finish up.</i></b></div>
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<h3>
Next Up - Painting</h3>
Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-84438969142956763342015-01-12T15:04:00.001-08:002015-09-20T10:08:46.688-07:00Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Hatch Trim & HatchesI enjoyed the holidays with my family and got back on the build with installing the hatch trim and making the hatches.<br />
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<b><i>There are 4 deck hatches and two pedestal hatches. The 4 deck hatches access the dry storage boxes. There are dry boxes on each side, each with two access hatches.</i></b></div>
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I first had to make backing that glues underneath the deck plywood along the edges. This reinforces the decks and gives up something to attach the hinge screws. The hatch backing is made with strips of 1/4" Okoume plywood that are about 2" wide. I made the strips and cut them to length. I had to make special strips that were about 5/8" wide that butted to the deck rail that runs lengthwise under the deck. Once these were cut I set them aside to flow coat with epoxy before gluing them in place under the deck and around the hatch opening.</div>
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I them had to make the hatch trims. These are strips of white oak that are 1/4" thick x 1 1/4" wide. I made a list of the sizes required for each hatch opening and cut them approximately 2" longer than the finish length. Once all the pieces were cut to length I had to cut a saw kerf on one side near the top edge create a slot to install hatch coaming. Hatch coaming is a type of gasket seal. The saw kerf is about 3/32" deep x 3/32" wide. It is cut on one edge about 5/32" from the top edge. I set up fingerboards on my table saw and cut the saw kerf on each piece. I then set them on a table to flow coat them with epoxy.<br />
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<b><i>Here is a piece of the hatch trim. It is 1/4" x 1 1/4". The saw kerf is on the top right.</i></b></div>
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Once they were flow coated and finish sanded it was time to install them. The hatch trim pieces fit inside the hatch openings. The bottom of the hatch trims are set flush with the bottom of the hatch backing and stick up above the deck about 3/4". The pieces are glued in place with thickened epoxy. Once the pieces are glued in place. (4 for each hatch) I cut sticks that were wedged inside to hold them in place. I did this for the 4 deck hatch openings and the two pedestal hatch openings.<br />
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<b><i>Here's a photo of the hatch trim installed on the front pedestal. It sticks proud of the opening by about 3/4". The back is flush with the back side of the opening. It was glued into the opening with thickened epoxy.</i></b></div>
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<b><i>This photo shows the hatch trim installed at one of the dry box openings. The opening has been filleted with epoxy peanut butter to seal the deck opening.</i></b></div>
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Hatches</h3>
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I next had to make the hatches. They are constructed with white oak trim that has a rabbit to accept a 1/4" Okoume plywood panel. The stock was milled to 5/8" x 3/4". I milled a 5/32" x 5/32" rabbit on one edge to accept the panel. The hatches must be large enough to fit the weatherstripping. The next step was to mitre the pieces for each hatch. I then cut the plywood panel to size.</div>
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I glued the miters and the rabbet to accept the panel with thickened epoxy. I clamped the assembly all at once.</div>
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<b>Here is one of the pedestal hatches. This is the back side. It looks sort of like a tray.</b></div>
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<b><i>Here is the front side of he same pedestal hatch. It has been flow coated with epoxy and sanded. It will get one more flow coat of epoxy and then multiple coats of varnish.</i></b></div>
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Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-76161982010112290062015-01-12T14:04:00.001-08:002015-09-20T10:09:00.374-07:00Kingfisher Drift Boat Build. - Installing the Deck Trim and the Rod Rack TrimMy last post for the Kingfisher drift boat build was on December 12th. It's now January 10th. What the heck have I been doing for the last month. Well, I've mainly been taking care of details. Prior to the holidays I installed the wood plugs at the deck and the deck trim. The progression was;<br />
<ul>
<li>Plugging the screw holes in the decks once they were installed.</li>
<li>Making the trim </li>
<li>Steam bending the front deck trim</li>
<li>Installing the trim at the decks</li>
<li>Installing the trim at the rod holder</li>
<li>Flow coating the deck trim with epoxy</li>
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<h3>
<b><i>Installing the wood plugs in the main deck</i></b>. </h3>
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The main deck which curves around at the front is screwed to the framework with #8 x 1" silicon bronze screws. There are about 32 of them. I used a 3/8" countersink bit to allow for the wood plug. The decks are constructed with 1/4" Okoume mahogany plywood so getting the depth of the countersink right is a little tricky. Too deep and the screw has nothing to secure or not deep enough and you can't install the plugs. It's best to play around with a piece of scrap to get it right. </div>
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I made the plugs with a 3/8" plug cutter and a drill press. I made a bunch of them. Drill a mahogany board and then rip the board on a bandsaw and you've got a bunch of plugs. One tip is to install the clean up any epoxy that oozes up through the holes when you attach the deck. If the epoxy ooze is allowed to set up you will not longer have a 3/8" diameter hole and the 3/8" diameter plug won't fit. I had some of these and it is a pain to get the holes cleaned up. I used a 3/8" diameter brad point drill bit and carefully twisted it by hand to clean up the hole. Don't do it in a drill or you'll be sorry. Again, I found this out.<br />
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<b><i>The photo above shows the glued down deck. The edge trim has not been installed yet. The plugs are installed and finish sanded. You can also see the epoxy fillet at the deck where it joins the sides.</i></b></div>
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I used Tightbond Waterproof glue to glue in the plugs. Once the glue set up, I used a Japanese hand saw designed to flush cut plugs to cut the plugs off. Once the plugs were cut off I used a 120 grit orbital disc to sand the plugs flush. Be careful not to sand in one spot or you can possibly sand through the flow coats of epoxy on the deck. This is a big problem so don't do it. Once the plugs are flat, final sand the deck progressively to 220 grit.</div>
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<b><i>Installing the deck trims</i></b></h3>
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The next step was to make the deck trims and the trim for the rod rack. I made the deck trim out of kiln dried white oak. This is fine for the straight pieces but difficult for the curved piece that is placed in front. I made finished stock that was 11/16" x 7/8" for the deck trim and 3/4" x 3/4" for the rod trim. Once the stock was made I used a carbide tipped dado blade with a spacer to make dados in the stock that were about 1/64" wider than 1/4". This dado goes over the 1/4" plywood that is flow coated on each side. The flow coating makes the plywood thicker than 1/4".</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbpome2gOzPINRAThkxIt8SZZj79nBsNTVVCjgouK8bJSaOTADWSyU_S6u4GCHWhi2-3NXJtd0ucTwTNGL2Esfodsgpml0cD884k2zQcy2pPumVyVKNGzqkFMcBg2xLqpKrEpj2mzFR4/s1600/2015-01-05+09.22.03+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifbpome2gOzPINRAThkxIt8SZZj79nBsNTVVCjgouK8bJSaOTADWSyU_S6u4GCHWhi2-3NXJtd0ucTwTNGL2Esfodsgpml0cD884k2zQcy2pPumVyVKNGzqkFMcBg2xLqpKrEpj2mzFR4/s1600/2015-01-05+09.22.03+cropped.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><i>This photo shows the curved deck trim installed and epoxied in place. The piece is bent to a radius of about 19". </i></b></div>
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The process of making the rounded deck trim involves steam bending and making a form to do so. You also need extra stock as bending a piece like this will take just the right piece and you don't know if it is until you attempt to bend it and clamp it to the form. I broke 3 pieces before I finally got one to bend to the radius. One trick is to make the dado deeper. I broke the first 3 pieces when the dado was 5/16" deep and the first one I tried with a dado that was 7/16" worked. Was it the grain or the depth of the dado? Not sure but it worked.</div>
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I cut the pieces to size, ran the dado and then rounded the top and bottom edges that would be facing the deck, (the side with the dado) with a 1/4" round over bit in a router table.. This would have been impossible to round over once it was installed. (I rounded the other edges once it was glued into place). I then placed the wood piece in a steam tube and steamed it for about 1 1/2 hours. Once it was steamed I clamped it to the form and let it sit clamped up in the form for 24 hours. Like I said this took all day as I broke the first 3 trying to bend them.</div>
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I took the piece out of the form the next day and it sprung back quite a bit. I was able to dry fit it onto the curved plywood deck and clamp it in place. I took it out and then coated the inside of the dado with thickened epoxy. More of a runny mayonnaise consistency. I coated it a second time and installed it with 3 way edge clamps.</div>
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Once this piece set up, I glued the straight pieces on that run lengthwise to the stern, I used one long piece that was about 7 feet long and a shorter piece that was about 2 feet long on each side. I fit the rear one first and scribed it to the sides at the rear. I fit the longer one between the front curved section and the rear piece. This was very easy. I held this in place with package tape as the 3 way edge clamps would not fit because of the rod rack. I glued on the rod tray trim at the same time.</div>
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Flow Coating the Deck Trim</h3>
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Once the epoxy had set up that glued the deck trim and the rod shelf trim in place I finish sanded the pieces progressively to 220 grit. I then coated the trim with 2 coats of epoxy. I used Raka UV Inhibited Resin mixed with Raka UV Inhibited Fast Set Hardener. This allows you to tend the epoxy as it sets up and eliminate most if not all of the runs, sags and drips. This is good to remember when flow coating anything that is a vertical or sloping surface.</div>
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<i>Next Up - Casting Deck</i></h3>
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This was all accomplished before the Holidays and I got started back up with installing the front casting deck.</div>
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Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-317775116423354752014-12-30T11:00:00.000-08:002015-09-20T11:17:51.299-07:00Nuts & Bolts #2 - Water Load CastingWhen nymphing from a drift boat you are typically casting multiple flies with shot. On the Lower Yuba River which often has good water clarity you also need to add the element of stealth. This means that you often need to be able to cast your nymphing rigg at least 2 rod lengths and more from the boat. This may seem daunting to some. By using a water loading casting technique you will be able to improve your ability to achieve these distances with less tangling when casting shot and multiple flies. We were fishing one day and my son Zack looked at me with a huge smile and a tangled mess of tippet and flies and said, "Look dad, I've got a bigger rat's nest then grandpa." Using a water load cast can help this from happening.<br />
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First I'll describe an indicator rigg setup that has been successful for me on the Lower Yuba River, the Lower Sacramento River, the Klamath River and many rivers in Montana when side drifting from a drift boat or raft.<br />
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<u>Indicator Setup</u> -<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-coxw5-0OtPTnjqC26Mc7Phh0pTZZ0Fwas5x2v8Es4EI-ZAxp3wXSSm_BGXV7d8jmniyTlQeCklX6TLZhg9HzXPZeCasSWe4l1BAU7p2RfLmiuMOXvbJBU-7PU1qrM3_XRjtkmC_fYRQ/s1600-h/Thingamabobber+packaging.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5413470646862007458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-coxw5-0OtPTnjqC26Mc7Phh0pTZZ0Fwas5x2v8Es4EI-ZAxp3wXSSm_BGXV7d8jmniyTlQeCklX6TLZhg9HzXPZeCasSWe4l1BAU7p2RfLmiuMOXvbJBU-7PU1qrM3_XRjtkmC_fYRQ/s320/Thingamabobber+packaging.jpg" style="float: right; height: 161px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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(a) For most side drifting from a boat I will typically rigg up with an indicator and about 6' to 9' of tippet from the indicator to the shot depending on the depth of the run.<br />
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(b) I usually rigg up with a tapered 2x x 10' leader. I prefer to use the tapered leader so I can adjust depth easily.<br />
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMEsXvaYXZDJlANBX2cHaoP_pEclfae7f04aHPGXzG05QJTA6_SHS8aTUDon09MKtFOoO8VqOv3pSC3Ng0x-3DrSr4avB4gI3-TxHNr6XArfLFX4UruHxyCBdlIepaNjGHsKONhi1-koo/s1600-h/Boles+Indicator.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5413471014503558402" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMEsXvaYXZDJlANBX2cHaoP_pEclfae7f04aHPGXzG05QJTA6_SHS8aTUDon09MKtFOoO8VqOv3pSC3Ng0x-3DrSr4avB4gI3-TxHNr6XArfLFX4UruHxyCBdlIepaNjGHsKONhi1-koo/s320/Boles+Indicator.jpg" style="float: right; height: 224px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 237px;" /></a>(c) On the Lower Yuba River and the Lower Sacramento River we have been using a "Thingamabobber", large size, white color. On drop offs and areas that have changing current speed and depth I prefer a "Boles" indicator in blue or green. The flag on the "Boles" allows you to see where your flies are underneath your indicator and will tell you to (1) either raise or lower the indicator, (2) Mend to speed up or slow down the drift, or (3) add or take off shot. <br />
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Usually I will choose one or the other and stick with it throughout the day.<br />
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<u>Fly Rigging</u> - I'll run three flies under the indicator, each spaced from 12" to 18". The deeper the run the larger the spacing. I use 3x fluorocarbon from the shot to the 1st fly, 4x fluorocarbon from the 1st to the 2nd fly and either 4x or 5x fluorocarbon from the 2nd to the third fly depending on the size of the fly.<br /><br /><br /><u>Presentation</u> - I believe that the Yuba requires stealth with your presentation and the set-ups for your drift. I usually try to cast my indicator into the desired seam with the length of the cast to be at least 2 rod lengths (18 to 20 feet) from the boat and a lot of times even further than that, closer to 3 rod lengths. (2o to 30 feet). I use a 6 weight 9'6" Sage XP or Z-Axis and it does just fine. Keep mending as required to keep the indicator moving in a straight line downstream.<br />
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<strong><em><u><span style="font-size: 130%;">Water Load Casting Technique</span></u></em></strong><br />
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<br /><u><strong>Water Load Casting</strong></u> - When fishing from a drift boat there is typically little concern for getting caught up when backcasting. This does not mean you shouldn't "look" first. The best technique for delivering the indicator, shot and flies and if there are not obstructions for your backcast is to water load your back cast prior to your forward cast.<br /><br /><br /><u><strong>Back Cast</strong></u> - To set up your backcast. You need to think of the mantra (1) lift (2) look (3) launch. By repeating this mantra you are reminding yourself to;<br /><br />(<strong>1 Lift</strong>) - Strip your indicator and flies towards the boat and lift the flies out of the water column until you see them up on the surface and then in one fluid motion;<br />(<strong>2 Look</strong>) Take a quick look at the back side to see there are no obstructions behind you.<br />(<strong>3 Launch</strong>) Lift the indicator and flies out of the water and start you backcast aiming your rod tip over your shoulder. <br />
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The cast should be overhead not side arm (parallel to the water). Think of your rod tip as a paint brush and you are painting the ceiling with it. This is another mantra that come in handy (<strong>Paint the Ceiling</strong>). Continue with your rod tip and point to landing spot on the backcast. Let the indicator and flies come to rest on the water on the backcast.<br /><br /><u><strong>Forward Cast</strong></u> - before your flies sink behind you repeat the mantra;<br /><br />(<strong>1 Lift</strong>) - Lift the flies back off the water before they sink to water load the forward cast;<br />(<strong>2 Look</strong>) - Where you want your flies and indicator to land which will be the seam that you want to fish;<br />(<strong>3 Launch</strong>) Start your forward cast over your head just to the side of vertical<br />
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Remember to (<strong>Paint the Ceiling)</strong> with your rod tip on the forward cast over your head or just to the side of vertical.<br />
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<strong>(4 Delivery)</strong> - Deliver the flies and drop your rod tip, make a mend for a dead drift and you're fishin'.<br />
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Done! Whew. Not as hard as it may sound.<br />
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Using this technique will keep your flies from dropping and forming a tailing loop and will eliminate constant tangles with indicator and flies.<br />
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<strong><em><span style="font-size: 130%;"><u>Controlling the Drift</u></span></em></strong><br />
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<u>Mending</u> - When side drifting from a drift boat under indicator the idea is to set up a drag free drift. Once the indicator lands, Stack mend the tip of your fly line directly behind the indicator. It is best to try to have about 2 ft. of fly line above the indicator which will help slow down the drift of the indicator. The water at the surface always flows faster than the water where the flies are drifting.<br />
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Point your rod tip at the indicator and mend almost constantly to keep the line fairly straight to the indicator. You can actually mend and place small wiggles in the line between the rod tip and the indicator. If your line is flowing faster than the indicator make small upstream mends without moving the indicator. If the line is flowing slower than the indicator make small downstream mends without moving the indicator.<br />
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If the whole rigg is just not floating right, start over and reset with another backcast, a water load forward delivery and you're right back at it.<br />
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<u><strong><em><span style="font-size: 130%;">Summary</span></em></strong></u><br />
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Utilizing the water load cast is by no means the only way to set up your cast when nymph fishing from a boat but another technique to add to your arsenal. It will help keep your tippet and flies from turning into a rat's nest. I know your guide will appreciate it!<br />
<br /><strong><em><u><span style="font-size: 130%;">Thanks</span></u></em></strong><br />
I wish to thank Craig Neilson of Shasta Trout for sharing his mantra of <strong><em>"Lift, Look and Launch." </em></strong>You can contact Craig at <a href="http://www.shastatrout.com/">http://www.shastatrout.com/</a><br />
I also want to thank Mike Hibbard, a superior guide and friend for the mantra "<strong><em>Paint the Ceiling". </em></strong>You can contact Mike Hibbard on his cell phone at 530-526-5535. <br />
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Make a Tradition!<br />
ClayClay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-16443447719441365202014-12-24T17:00:00.000-08:002015-09-20T10:51:08.944-07:00My Fly Boxes - Box #4 -Eggs/ Larger Nymphs<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinlVmP8dTCHpTYVnqWBwpL3-fhucVRYNLQQ_zNlU6PgUqtr8edMFyXqJMvhOG1zKcDdI0W9r2dB_zN2DEWLm4tqikVQU4QRZMErUcNzMq97eog5e8rQFMNhKA0RYyOeDmpslrLSeTYzN8/s1600/C&F+Compartment+Box.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409220736310362178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinlVmP8dTCHpTYVnqWBwpL3-fhucVRYNLQQ_zNlU6PgUqtr8edMFyXqJMvhOG1zKcDdI0W9r2dB_zN2DEWLm4tqikVQU4QRZMErUcNzMq97eog5e8rQFMNhKA0RYyOeDmpslrLSeTYzN8/s200/C&F+Compartment+Box.jpg" style="float: right; height: 161px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
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This a continuation of "My Fly Boxes". This 4th box is another of my "Go To" boxes. It is usually sitting in the tray of my drift boat and handy at all times. It is a waterproof, C&F box, with compartments with individual opening lids on one side and a foam slotted patch on the other side. It is a full size box as is about 4 inches x 7 3/4" and 1 3/4" thick. It is stored in my "Fishpond Guide Pack" but I rarely pack it around when I'm wade fishing. It sees more use in the boat. </div>
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Why do I like the waterproof boxes? I learned this the hard way. I used to have 3 or 4 Scientific Anglers non-water proof boxes and had them their pretty well filled with flies. I was getting ready for a fishing trip to Montana one time and I took one of the boxes out to check it out. At least half of the flies had rusty hooks and were worthless. I had gotten the box wet when I was wet wading and forgot to open it up and dry out the box and the flies properly. Lesson learned. The waterproof boxes help this from happening. Now, I almost always open my boxes up after fishing to dry then out properly, even though they are waterproof.</div>
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<u><strong><span style="font-size: 130%;">Compartment Side</span></strong> </u></div>
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Let's take a look what I've got in my compartmented side<br />
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I use the compartmented side of this box for yarn eggs, San Juan Worms and similar types of files. There are 3 compartments that are empty and I know that it's because I've been fishing the egg bite on the Yuba. I just transferred a bunch of "Pettis Eggs" from this box to my smaller C&F Box #2. This is sort of how the eggs in this box go. It's somewhat of a re-supply box for the smaller box with eggs. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZeg3PsqfuQRV5Tp3gLdpPKwqLU85JJa4024SyFUdL2OkBpl48t00zNT-GuNe2lzBvcfywKczx0GUgbRGiKlcVeyZKZ58MVraSQ7LP5qnZYUGKS7bdZ-ZQvtINsWxp4jHIOoXJ7IMn1-0/s1600-h/Egg+Box.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411661406544106290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZeg3PsqfuQRV5Tp3gLdpPKwqLU85JJa4024SyFUdL2OkBpl48t00zNT-GuNe2lzBvcfywKczx0GUgbRGiKlcVeyZKZ58MVraSQ7LP5qnZYUGKS7bdZ-ZQvtINsWxp4jHIOoXJ7IMn1-0/s320/Egg+Box.jpg" style="float: right; height: 149px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 169px;" /></a><u>Eggs</u> - A little story about eggs. I fished about 20 years ago with a guide on the Kenai River in Alaska. We were visiting Laura's sister, and I was able to squeeze in a half day float for rainbows and king salmon while we were visiting. The guide showed me his egg box. It was a big box probably 6" x 10" and all it had in it was yarns eggs, from opaque white all the way to dark red. It was like a painter's color wheel. The rainbows on the Kenai would lock into one specific color and you had to match it. This was before the "Troutbeads" became popular. He would use the eggs from it and then tie or I guess buy new ones to fill the holes back in. There were probably 75 different colors of eggs.<br />
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He also had his "secret" scent. He had a bottle of "juice" that he would put on the egg and it was sort of his secret recipe. He seemed pretty secretive about it. Did it make a difference? I know one thing. We caught some big rainbows an he sure thought it did!<br />
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<u>Pettis Eggs</u> - I've been sold on the "Pettis Eggs" for quite a while. I fish started using this pattern on the Klamath River below Iron Gate Dam. Since then it's the first egg pattern that I'll try. There's something about how the glass bead glows through the Egg Yarn. The photo on the right doesn't really do the pattern justice as you don't see the red/scarlet bead in the middle until you get it wet. I tie this more pattern more sparse, so the scarlet bead is more visible, sort of how you should tie a Lafontaine Sparkle Pupa.<br />
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I tie this pattern in about 4 colors using "Cascade" egg yarn. To tie this pattern correctly you need to get this yarn. So, I use 4 of the 10 compartments for "Pettis eggs."<br />
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<u>Alevin Patterns</u> - Once the egg bite is over the Alevin patterns come into play. I really like the pattern, "Fox's Fertilizer". I've had good luck with this pattern on December 1st when the river opens above the Parks Bar Bridge on the Yuba. I use 1 compartment for these.<br />
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<u>Other Alevin Patterns</u> - I have 1 compartment with various Alevin patterns. A couple of these, 3 of those, and so forth. These are flies that I have picked up at The Fly Shop in Redding when I have fished the Lower Sac. It seems though, that if I have any "Fox's Fertilizer's" in my box, that's what I'll "Go To."<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE2XougIw8akI2FtcFmb1UA9XLPyZb9433XLJq4cSvUYj_qNXn7QEbsRjVBQ4ERpFs_xcPFkPye_rKVaoNe85gNrnJdx6WHyWGN__ofC7f8UFqqnO1hQAIKn6nqv2OzDq5jGNCbDE7cZg/s1600/Yarn+Eggs.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408935284685752498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE2XougIw8akI2FtcFmb1UA9XLPyZb9433XLJq4cSvUYj_qNXn7QEbsRjVBQ4ERpFs_xcPFkPye_rKVaoNe85gNrnJdx6WHyWGN__ofC7f8UFqqnO1hQAIKn6nqv2OzDq5jGNCbDE7cZg/s200/Yarn+Eggs.gif" style="float: right; height: 164px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><u>Glo Bugs</u> - I have a range of colors of yarn eggs collected mainly from "The Fly Shop" in Redding when the egg bite is on and we have been fishing the Lower Sacramento. I have recently started using more "Troutbeads" and have them in a different box. So, I'll probably eventually phase these yarn eggs out. I have 3 compartments with various yarn eggs in different colors.<br />
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The "Troutbeads" are the way to go until the next evolution of eggs comes around. I'll go into more detail about the beads when I get into my Bead Box #5.<br />
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<u><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdTMgDsHavQyzktbqr66hIletdjTkgADTvPaMguVyWPtdcmweIXaws4A8L76zlTSU9mm7pHRJMcuOBZWBTEHn0CvT4YaDb9H_9eKkj6ebLzniSm2wI7jdsbgdI6x8EzEFcTH2q0nI3ME/s1600/Micro+Spawn+-+Oregon+Cheese.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409188358073324658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdTMgDsHavQyzktbqr66hIletdjTkgADTvPaMguVyWPtdcmweIXaws4A8L76zlTSU9mm7pHRJMcuOBZWBTEHn0CvT4YaDb9H_9eKkj6ebLzniSm2wI7jdsbgdI6x8EzEFcTH2q0nI3ME/s200/Micro+Spawn+-+Oregon+Cheese.jpg" style="float: right; height: 141px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a></u><br />
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<u>Sucker Spawn</u> - The sucker spawn is big on the Lower Sacramento River in the spring and early summer. I was told that the "Old Timers" around Redding say that when the cottonwood trees start blossoming and you get the white "cotton candy like" blooms blowing around, "Put on the Sucker Spawn." I carry two colors, One that is yellow and is called "Oregon Cheese" and a pink color that I'm not sure what the name of it is. I have 2 compartments filled with sucker spawn. I would be willing to bet that Sucker Spawn would work below the Parks Bar Bridge at the same time period.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2mirsfElnHyrlpH13RXtgF9u4k6CltFTikVo0C35nJrFBZke1GzYKCZzQYpjfnmWT8252iMDC7wrKlSXokTA6hx5Tss4G-Wtj7NFDhqpMdTA2YLmMfeg2XVfgORlGX-SLlHKVXIu9IA/s1600/nymphs-sanjuan-worm.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409190585880312290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2mirsfElnHyrlpH13RXtgF9u4k6CltFTikVo0C35nJrFBZke1GzYKCZzQYpjfnmWT8252iMDC7wrKlSXokTA6hx5Tss4G-Wtj7NFDhqpMdTA2YLmMfeg2XVfgORlGX-SLlHKVXIu9IA/s200/nymphs-sanjuan-worm.jpg" style="float: left; height: 190px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
<u>San Juan Worms</u> - I have 2 compartments filled with San Juan Worms. I have them sort of mixed up with different colors and sizes. The San Juan worm can be great on the Yuba after a spring, fall or winter rain storm. If you ever do stream sampling after a storm you will be surprised how many worms are floating down the river. Do a sampling and then match the color. I usually go for one that is darker. I also like a two tone worm.<br />
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That pretty much fills up the compartment side. I need to get set up and tie some more Pettis eggs to fill those 3 empty compartments. Like I've said before, this is what I like about keeping your boxes organized and know what's in them. When you find a big hole or empty compartment you know what you used or what was successful. This is better than sitting there staring at your fly box and muttering to yourself, "What the heck was in that spot?" I'm willing to bet you've been there. Right?<br />
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<u><strong><span style="font-size: 130%;">The Other Side "Slotted Foam Patch" - Larger Nymphs</span></strong></u><br />
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The nymphs that I have stored on this leaf are larger nymphs, size 12 & 14 predominately with a few size 16's. These nymphs are more of the attractors or generic nymphs as opposed to imitative nymphs. My imitative nymphs are primarily in the Boxes 1 &2.<br />
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<u>Copper Johns</u><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisivBqkdA5-G9KNS8eIJCA1KrvVSwXQZDK_G0nbSjxrF0FOFhZfr3xJ4psLc4aHJducWZ2KciNl0DopXeipjJ5WQsHtEx6F7WinENppqFvrnOm3axhJMDhyphenhyphenHZcYS7x6oa_n3lNWZ8R1WY/s1600/Copper-Nymph-Bead-Head-Red-side.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409198344220743362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisivBqkdA5-G9KNS8eIJCA1KrvVSwXQZDK_G0nbSjxrF0FOFhZfr3xJ4psLc4aHJducWZ2KciNl0DopXeipjJ5WQsHtEx6F7WinENppqFvrnOm3axhJMDhyphenhyphenHZcYS7x6oa_n3lNWZ8R1WY/s200/Copper-Nymph-Bead-Head-Red-side.jpg" style="float: right; height: 150px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
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I like Copper Johns. They just seem to work. I've got a row of Red Copper Johns in sizes from 16's and 14's. I've also got some Chartreuse ones. And there are also some bluish purple ones. I've probably got some other colors in a deep storage box too.<br />
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I've got a half dozen of the blue/purple copper johns that worked so well a couple of years ago for steelhead on the Trinity, size 14. This was "the fly" of that day.<br />
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<u>Flashback Peasant Tails</u> -<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJHttPvJPC-H-kKEJ0fE8DMLUy3fzcO4YWCmekHiMX9faj5z2dNsZlmAa1BiRWCXTB6wRqI8DvVyYD65BD_hYZ6w0KzSiviOss5nFGopPH_jtkp2VzWeHjmqzGCArzWjwAP2aXAqA1IFA/s1600/Flashback+Pheasant+Tail.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409216944335545090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJHttPvJPC-H-kKEJ0fE8DMLUy3fzcO4YWCmekHiMX9faj5z2dNsZlmAa1BiRWCXTB6wRqI8DvVyYD65BD_hYZ6w0KzSiviOss5nFGopPH_jtkp2VzWeHjmqzGCArzWjwAP2aXAqA1IFA/s200/Flashback+Pheasant+Tail.jpg" style="float: right; height: 200px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
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I've got a half dozen Flashback Pheasant tails size 14 that I tied with peacock used for the thorax. If in doubt put on a PT, they will get fish to bite almost anywhere.<br />
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<u>Morrish's Dirty Bird</u>- <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwLRp9ADthh8opabqFU-a7hEwQC79zFQ0NqJN3_rOYyCiuNEwlIhV99xrF-m5_7RXIksQg42WotDPoUvvo7g49hTkyT7xQpalxjDdlAqBgbFfNwrhZoB6mB0_LH_COtJ9KtrPJw2Bnvw/s1600/Morrishes+Dirty+Bird+-+Olive.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409203161903551810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqwLRp9ADthh8opabqFU-a7hEwQC79zFQ0NqJN3_rOYyCiuNEwlIhV99xrF-m5_7RXIksQg42WotDPoUvvo7g49hTkyT7xQpalxjDdlAqBgbFfNwrhZoB6mB0_LH_COtJ9KtrPJw2Bnvw/s200/Morrishes+Dirty+Bird+-+Olive.jpg" style="float: right; height: 141px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
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This is another fly that I really like. There is something very fishy about this fly. It's like a "Bushy" birds nest.<br />
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The ones I have left in my box are tied with chocolate/brown dubbing. I've got a half dozen of these. The photo at the right is an olive color. I like this pattern using hares ear dubbing also. That's why I don't have any left in here.<br />
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<u>Beadhead Hares's Ears</u><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWOfWr0O67mULR7o6k469rFINiD4qzYk4NncOYjyIdTyHRb5sNbBBNuEG6URLzRp16ONNXVk62IhXxfoglBT39KZmW-m9zgtRM0MqiQMZniOCNQapHRvn7v6q1uZCpb4zSkWp37O1gFTY/s1600/Beadhead+Hares+Ear.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409219066168553906" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWOfWr0O67mULR7o6k469rFINiD4qzYk4NncOYjyIdTyHRb5sNbBBNuEG6URLzRp16ONNXVk62IhXxfoglBT39KZmW-m9zgtRM0MqiQMZniOCNQapHRvn7v6q1uZCpb4zSkWp37O1gFTY/s200/Beadhead+Hares+Ear.jpg" style="float: right; height: 150px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
I've got half a dozen beadhead and non-beadhead hare's ear nymphs. Just a general proven searching pattern. I got on a hares ear kick by reading books written by Dave Hughes. I don't go to these as often these days but I always have some in my boxes.<br />
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<u>Bird's Nest's</u><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4pU8LguwJM0_fvhRJuGN9KcbY3dBF3pf8qfDv6Tw3ah9LHc8WALZoFiTWhAi5N6QopT32MWkQzzjTDFhwPd_7JcZRckWepptvEI42HRJIGW2q239MQCpMbXcKKWH7iYDhnUJg0Y74ttU/s1600/Bird"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409210444741168050" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4pU8LguwJM0_fvhRJuGN9KcbY3dBF3pf8qfDv6Tw3ah9LHc8WALZoFiTWhAi5N6QopT32MWkQzzjTDFhwPd_7JcZRckWepptvEI42HRJIGW2q239MQCpMbXcKKWH7iYDhnUJg0Y74ttU/s200/Bird's+Nest+Natural.jpg" style="float: right; height: 141px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
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I have a whole row of bird's nests in size 14. I absolutely love this fly. This is a must have fly in everyone's fly box. Read Ralph Cutter's book "Fish Food" about this. This is another "Go To" fly for me. I've used this on the Lower Sac, Yuba, Montana and just about everywhere. The photo on the right is much "yellower' than the patterns that I've got.<br />
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<u>Skip's Nymph</u><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_kzJ8iSDW797xMxlD_cNWxlFYX_8Lh5ZizADo3DtBVS9bfy57d29vy04iEjuXfP88GwkPjpaC021d1rZS2dbwRCrAZKcjKnbxivZPi8DRtSiWz-aL45Q_UzfmUlrEvBQTUIBxSui32Bk/s1600/Skips+Nymph.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409209880749143010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_kzJ8iSDW797xMxlD_cNWxlFYX_8Lh5ZizADo3DtBVS9bfy57d29vy04iEjuXfP88GwkPjpaC021d1rZS2dbwRCrAZKcjKnbxivZPi8DRtSiWz-aL45Q_UzfmUlrEvBQTUIBxSui32Bk/s200/Skips+Nymph.jpg" style="float: right; height: 150px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
I have a dozen of these that I tied. This is another must have "Go To" nymph. It works for a PMD in the right size and is similar to the bird's nest as a general attractor nymph. I like how easy this pattern is to tie with not a lot of different materials. Try it. This is a great fly on the Lower Sacramento River when the PMD's are happening. I like this fly in a size 16 & 18 when the PMD's are happening on the Lower Yuba.<br />
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<u>Lafontaine Twist Nymph</u> - I've got a number of Lafontaine's twist nymphs which have a beadhead and tied from his book "Proven Patterns" I have used this fly, which is tied on a size 14 3x long hook, swinging at dusk in the eddy pools on the Yuba. Cast it into the current, let it swing into the eddy water and hold on!<br />
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<u>Prince of Darkness</u><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZaNfEwKB43EGxPgYBk_j-HuS8H9S2W3vmFPFQA5-Y5lz7Qa0am3GnSuY0fS1VXNTIKlIrLjtAGwav5o40dbGWsveTPFjBomcAesgfzljHwoI6dcuUGeqK9OokjnNzbj7Ckuq711APw9M/s1600/Prince+of+Darkness.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5409231856272178946" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZaNfEwKB43EGxPgYBk_j-HuS8H9S2W3vmFPFQA5-Y5lz7Qa0am3GnSuY0fS1VXNTIKlIrLjtAGwav5o40dbGWsveTPFjBomcAesgfzljHwoI6dcuUGeqK9OokjnNzbj7Ckuq711APw9M/s200/Prince+of+Darkness.jpg" style="float: right; height: 141px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a><br />
I've just added this fly to the box. It is a "Go To" fly of Ryan Miller who guides out of Nevada City on the Yuba. This is a good looking fly! I think it's a better Dark Lord. It has that tint of green which alwalys seems to do well on the Yuba.<br />
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That's the make up of Box #4 and is full of eggs, SJ worms and my "Go To" attractor nymphs.<br />
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You can check out this post and others at <a href="http://www.flyfishingtraditions.com/">http://www.flyfishingtraditions.com/</a><br />
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Take some time to organize your fly boxes, it's worth the time spent.<br />
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ClayClay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-86386087072501284642014-12-23T01:00:00.000-08:002015-09-20T11:14:25.427-07:00Skwala "Knothead" Prototype<strong>12/19/2010</strong><br />
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I've been able to play around at my vise with the rain pounding down for the last week or so. The Lower Yuba flows are receding a bit, but today they are still running at over 12,000 cfs, which is down from 20,0000 two days ago. When all this is over hopefully the Skwalas will have survived and be starting up.<br />
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I'm trying to refine two types of Skwala dries, one for the bouncier, nervous water, which so far is the prototype "Skwalanator" and now I've come up with a slow, eddy water prototype pattern I'm calling the "Knothead".<br />
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The resident rainbows will take a Skwala Dry with reckless abandon sometimes in the nervous moving water when the Skwalas are in the drift, many patterns work, some better than other. When the fish are staged in slack or eddie water feeding on the helpless Skwalas it's a different story, a much more imitative pattern is required. Twitching the fly can help but I'm convinced that you need to get (1) the profile correct (2) the size correct and (3) the color much closer to the natural. Thus the need for two separate patterns.<br />
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This is all conjecture and experimentation and will hopefully be put to test in January. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoCGT58646It-PEly8AmPUcnXoHCQvZ9_EStvNo519yjB6bUO6SJgYVcVAVDazmvhRRfMHYrYu1wJQdWcctWYK2V5bzBFlB3mfGYJGcXwgQbe1-KrRhMWq8fQWY9KWMvjAoCeNC8cDnbk/s1600/Skwala+Knothead.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553194907703449666" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoCGT58646It-PEly8AmPUcnXoHCQvZ9_EStvNo519yjB6bUO6SJgYVcVAVDazmvhRRfMHYrYu1wJQdWcctWYK2V5bzBFlB3mfGYJGcXwgQbe1-KrRhMWq8fQWY9KWMvjAoCeNC8cDnbk/s400/Skwala+Knothead.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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This "Skwala Knothead" prototye pattern is tied with a bullet head using gray dun died compradun deer hair. It has a dubbed body and a sparse overwing. I've trimmed the palmered hackle that runs through the abdomen on the bottom to enable the fly to float flush or just below the film. I'm still looking for the right rubberleg material and this mini black rubberleg material may be to large. Like I said it is a prototype until the fish tell me they like it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEMZeFpUWG5o8oiPIGBrvLy9wJpPA6_8GbU3yOJwXY2l08zi7V3dVLoQ8cpfBxg9Ozz7BTmxC_uwuYtcNbCIgovn_7a5NfYcusCJYJglbn3LtcQeXAzFvGkyKMpzimc-4ZHzWIzLN3jFg/s1600/Skwala+Knothead+-Btm+View.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5553196711446367154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEMZeFpUWG5o8oiPIGBrvLy9wJpPA6_8GbU3yOJwXY2l08zi7V3dVLoQ8cpfBxg9Ozz7BTmxC_uwuYtcNbCIgovn_7a5NfYcusCJYJglbn3LtcQeXAzFvGkyKMpzimc-4ZHzWIzLN3jFg/s400/Skwala+Knothead+-Btm+View.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pattern Recipe for the "Yuba Knothead" </span><br />
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Hook: Tiemco 2312, Size 12 <br />
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Thread: 6/0 Olive (I like to use the 6/0 for the deer hair bullethead)<br />
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Egg Sack: 1/8" black foam cut to 3/32" wide. (Double over and tie about 1/8" past the hook bend).<br />
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Palmered Hackle: Size 14 black dry fly hackle<br />
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Body: Yellow antron dubbing wrapped with the Olive thread (When the yellow dubbing is wrapped with the olive thread the olive color blends with the yellow dubbing to give it the yellow/olive cast that you need to match the Yuba River Skwalas.<br />
This is the second major change from all the patterns on the market. <br />
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Under wing: Hareline No-Fray Wing Material Black (Fine mesh wing material like micro window screen)<br />
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Over wing Flash: 5 to six strands of Krystal Flash<br />
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Bullethead/Overwing: Dark Brown Deer Hair - (Sparse Wing)<br />
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Rubber Legs: 2 pairs of Hareline Fine Round Rubber Legs Black<br />
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Visible Over Wing: Small bunch of orange dyed Deer Hair<br />
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Once the fly is completed, carefully trim the deer hair overwing and remove all the deerhair at the bottom and on the two sides until you get the desired profile of a sparse overwing. I've left some on the sides as I just think it makes the fly look buggier. If the trout don't like it I'll just trim more off the sides.<br />
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Also trim the palmered hackle off the bottom of the fly.<br />
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I can't wait to test this pattern out!Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-46915047754610318332014-12-16T09:17:00.000-08:002015-09-20T10:54:32.490-07:00Fishing the Klamath River December 2009<div align="center">
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I traveled to Northern California this week to fish the Klamath River with Craig Neilson of Shasta Trout. I went with Blake Larsen a long time friend and fishing buddy. This was sort of a thank you trip to Blake who is my Project manager for my Custom Home Building business. We were hoping to hit the river and catch some action for the winter run steelhead. We had communicated with Craig Neilson earlier in the week and he said that it had been brutily cold. There were times last week where he had to use hot water from one of his thermos bottles to un-freeze the anchor rope for his drift boat so he could set the anchor. None the less they had been catching fish. The fishing had been good for half-pounders and winter run steelhead. So we were prepared with lots of insulated layers, waders, fleece gloves, hats, rain gear etc. This was a steelhead trip after all. It's not steelheading unless the conditions are miserable.</div>
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Blake had traveled down on Monday morning, leaving Truckee in a light snow storm. We had planned on leaving Grass Valley at about 5:00 am. With the snow on the highways we left at about 5:30. Our plan was to meet Craig Neilson at about 9:00 in the town of Mt. Shasta. We made good time and were able to get there on time. </div>
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We were going to be fishing a 5 1/2 mile stretch of the Klamath River below Iron Gate Dam. It is about a 50 minute drive north of Mt. Shasta. This portion of the river is east of Yreka and almost touching the Oregon border. It is more of a a high desert environment. Not really what you think of when you contemplate Northern California or South-western Oregon.<br />
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On the way driving to the river, I had a vision of taking my sunglasses off my rear view mirror in my SUV, and my lanyard with my license and steelhead card attached to it. Unfortunately it was still hanging there in Grass Valley, Smart! Fortunately there was a gas station real close to the river where I could pick up another one. We set up our shuttle and were on the river at about 11:15 to start the fishing day. This is later than everyone had hoped for, but at least the temperature had warmed up to a balmy 39 degrees. The day started with a solid high overcast and was looking to improve during the day. We later had periods of full sunshine. This steelheading isn't that bad!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKU7NZSbGeNXvYQgPc1iimIr_OFl1rRKOf9haXv3OI8RnAv9EuqTeMXdLoKNh5-OFxD5Fe9b2WPKWvYs7cidZs8PPG7RBMwnGtIDH6Pc9uK-QA0dHvIfIdDSPptd5yIUcH8dMBZbYN4_s/s1600-h/Superfloss+Rubberlegs.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415952881834544898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKU7NZSbGeNXvYQgPc1iimIr_OFl1rRKOf9haXv3OI8RnAv9EuqTeMXdLoKNh5-OFxD5Fe9b2WPKWvYs7cidZs8PPG7RBMwnGtIDH6Pc9uK-QA0dHvIfIdDSPptd5yIUcH8dMBZbYN4_s/s200/Superfloss+Rubberlegs.jpg" style="float: right; height: 166px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a> I was rigged up with a thingamabobber with a tapered leader that was about 8 ft to 9ft. above the split shot. I had one lead shot and one AAA standard shot. I started with a size 10 troutbead with a size 8 egg hook. A second fly, which was a brown rubber legs, was tied to the hook bend of the egg hook. </div>
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Blake was rigged up basically the same with a troutbead, except his bottom fly was a fly similar to an Idlwylde Fly called a "Fuglybug". This fly had been good in November of the Klamath.</div>
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Later in the day a BWO hatch came off and and we added a BWO nymph as a third fly. We also tried an Alevin pattern. That was pretty much it. That's what had been working for Craig earlier in the week and there wasn't much need to start changing and experimenting with a bunch of different flies. The steelhead were either going to eat them or go back to sleep.</div>
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On Monday we caught some half pounders early on, had a couple of hatchery steelhead landed during the rest of the day. It was a "steelhead day" as compared to a November "egg bite day" when there are a lot of salmon in the river and every trout, half pounder and steelhead are gobbling up eggs. We only saw a couple of late salmon and Craig stated that the salmon run is done. Subsequently, even though the steelhead still will take a troutbead, a lot of the half pounders have already migrated down stream. The numbers of fish in the river in December are less than in November when the salmon are thick. Don't get me wrong there are still half pounders in the river just not as many as in November. Essentially if your after a big number day head up there in November when the salmon are thick and if you are looking to land a large adult steelhead head up there in December through February. It also pays to keep updated as to the timing of the steelhead run. Check out Craig's fishing reports at <a href="http://www.shastatrout.com/">http://www.shastatrout.com/</a> before you go.</div>
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<strong><em><span style="font-size: 130%;">Blake with a "typical" Klamath River "Half- pounder"</span></em></strong><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSUShZ0rEh4Y5lMY-_bOuDDun5Na29RTBHWAAc4961JsF-gD30lmZ4NTMbwb0MbSgI8y43LEUPJKyt0dPX_zxNODQ5eyAYTpTRNITcZRU77vI7AHEyl5GMAzLd8_SIEe0p9U7MDNJYiw/s1600-h/Fox"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415966616792232242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSUShZ0rEh4Y5lMY-_bOuDDun5Na29RTBHWAAc4961JsF-gD30lmZ4NTMbwb0MbSgI8y43LEUPJKyt0dPX_zxNODQ5eyAYTpTRNITcZRU77vI7AHEyl5GMAzLd8_SIEe0p9U7MDNJYiw/s200/Fox's+Fertilizer.jpg" style="float: right; height: 141px; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a>As mentioned we also fished an Alevin pattern on both days and had sucess with it. The photo on the right is the "Fox's Fertilizer. We used a fly similar to this one. </div>
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On Tuesday, the air temperatures were warmer and there was a drizzling rain off and on for most of the day. There were a few runs where the fish woke up and the bite turned on and was steady. Of the two days, Tuesday was definitely more of the "numbers" day. We had the river to ourselves on Tuesday and I believe that also made a difference.</div>
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The fish seemed to be pretty sluggish on both days and we had the feeling that you had to drift a fly across their noses, essentially be right on the line or in the right slot. Once hooked most of the fish just hunkered down and "dogged it". We landed a number of larger steelhead with the biggest once going about 23". Blake hooked a fish that was larger than that but we lost when it wrapped itself up and popped off.</div>
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<strong><em><span style="font-size: 130%;">Blake with Craig ready at the net</span></em></strong><br />
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<strong><em><span style="font-size: 130%;">Teamwork Pays Off - Blake with a nice "Hen Steelhead"</span></em></strong><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div>
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<br /><strong><em><span style="font-size: 130%;">Even I get lucky once in a while!</span></em></strong></div>
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Craig Neilson is also an accomplished switch rod enthusiast, so we set up in a few runs and swung flies with switch rods on both days. This was another reason that I wanted to head up there. I was using my Sage Z-Axis 11 ft. 6 weight switch rod and Blake used one of Craig's switch rods. We were rigged up with mini Skagit Heads attached loop to loop with a level running line. I had a 7 ips versaleader attached to my Skagit Head. Craig worked with both Blake and I on the spey casts that we needed to incorporate when fishing from the front and rear positions of the drift boat, from river right and from river left. The casts required change with the front and rear boat positons and also from river right or river left. Swinging flies from the drift boat is sort of cool, it's like having a portable rock that you can stand on and fish from where ever you want it. There is some coordination that you have to work out with the two angling positions but we really didn't get tangled up much at all. I will say that if you just casted willy nilly and paid no attention to what the other caster was doing it could get messy. </div>
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The water temps were in the low 40's and getting colder which Craig said tends to put the steelhead off the bite. Steelhead tend to get grabbier as water temperatures increase. Even by 1 degree. He says in pays to monitor water temperatures closely. Buy a good stream thermometer and keep records of water temperatures. If a warm storm was coming in after a period of colder weather. Head to the river and start swinging flies. Good to know.</div>
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The Klamath is a great river to swing flies for steelhead and booking a trip with Craig would be a great learning experience with the added chance of landing a 10 pound or bigger steelhead when swinging a fly. </div>
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Give Craig Neilson a call at 530-926-5763 or e-mail him at <a href="mailto:craig@shastatrout.com">craig@shastatrout.com</a>. You will thank me for the heads up.<br /><br /><br />Make a Tradition!<br /><br /><br />Clay<br /><br />You can see this blog and others at <a href="http://www.flyfishingtraditions.com/">http://www.flyfishingtraditions.com/</a></div>
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Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-68519093186023697592014-12-15T23:00:00.000-08:002015-09-20T11:14:55.245-07:00The Yuba Skwalanator - The Experiment<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEing_bCjvS1Lj9apDf7_TQZFrYXA0cAaWNR2upNESxuYk6_mtlpnsqRTWTQch6OmuRArIKbdSAbM4rlzwoKadGYj1kcNSGJ19E80VThuEInPhhUNEZIAKPynPSxPY4J4k44J4Pmuun9soE/s1600/Skwala-nator.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5551171915771895442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEing_bCjvS1Lj9apDf7_TQZFrYXA0cAaWNR2upNESxuYk6_mtlpnsqRTWTQch6OmuRArIKbdSAbM4rlzwoKadGYj1kcNSGJ19E80VThuEInPhhUNEZIAKPynPSxPY4J4k44J4Pmuun9soE/s400/Skwala-nator.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 295px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;">Note: The colors are definitely more golden than this photo captures</span></div>
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Introducing "The Yuba Skwalanator". I've been on a quest since last winter after being humiliated by refusal after refusal of every Skawala dry fly I had in my box, to come up with a better pattern to match the Skwalas on our local Lower Yuba River. I had decent luck last February and March with the standard patterns I carry when fishing the nervous types of water, but when the fish would move down into eddy type water or the flats below riffles where they could really take a good look at the flies, no takers. They turned up their noses and said "Fakers go home!" They would take live Skwalas inches from my dry fly put no dice.<br />
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So in an effort to refine this pattern I have collected just about every pattern on the market out there and talked to my fishing buddies, taken many mental notes and this is the pattern I've come up with this tie.<br />
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Recipe for the "Yuba Skwalanator" (<span style="font-style: italic;">Arnold is still Governor by the way</span>).<br />
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Hook: Tiemco 2312, Size 12 (This is the first major change. The Lower Yuba Skwalas are smaller than most patterns in the market)<br />
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Thread: 6/0 or 8/0 Black ( I like to use the 8/0 because of the many materials used in this pattern.<br />
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Egg Sack: 1/8" black foam cut to 3/32" wide. (Double over and tie about 1/8" past the hook bend.<br />
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Palmered Hackle:<br />
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Body: Blended antron dubbing 2/3 golden, 1/3 olive. ( This is the second major change from all the patterns on the market. The Skwala on the Yuba river are more Golden Olive with emphasis on the golden)<br />
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Under wing: Hareline No-Fray Wing Material Black (Fine mesh wing material like micro window screen)<br />
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Over wing Flash: 5 to six strands of Krystal Flash<br />
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Wing: Dark Brown Deer Hair - (Sparse Wing)<br />
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Dubbing at Thorax: Blended antron dubbing 2/3 golden, 1/3 olive<br />
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Rubber Legs: 2 pairs of Hareline Fine Round Rubber Legs Black<br />
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Hackle: Black Dry Fly Hackle size 14<br />
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That's a lot of materials to fit on that size 12 hook. Minimize your wraps and dubb with very small amounts of dubbing. Sparse!<br />
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Can't wait to give it a go. If I was a trout, I'd eat it. If they work I'll sell them on the river for $20 a pop. Kidding!<br />
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As a note: I've tied some of these with the Deer Hair wing using the cut butts over the wing. I've heard that that has made a difference. I took photos of this with a standard wing because it was prettier. I guess the trout might like the weird hair do.<br />
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Thanks to Norm Sauer, Tom Page, Keith Scott and Frank Rinella for their insights on the Lower Yuba River Skwala hatch. Also thankd to ralph Wood who came up with a Skwala Pattern that inspired this sort of "Stimulator Tie". Thus watch out for the Yuba Skwalanator.Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-81332811519890808472014-12-15T01:49:00.000-08:002015-09-20T11:30:42.541-07:00Techniques - Mending Your Fly Line<div>
What does “mend” mean? Well… let’s look at a fishing situation, imagine you're standing knee deep in your favorite stream. You make an upstream presentation, your fly land softly, starts floating back towards you and then all of a sudden in starts skating the currents. Opps, Forgot to mend the line.</div>
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The term “mend” or “mending” is simply the act of moving the fly line during the drift, to create a specific presentation of the fly to the fish.</div>
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With that said, mending the fly line will have an effect on how the fly rides in the water. Learning when, where, how to mend and what the mend does for the presentation of the fly are all keys to becoming a successful fly fisher.</div>
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Standing alongside an experienced angler (maybe, hiring an educational oriented guide?) who talks you through when and how to mend is one of the best ways to learn. Mending expertise doesn’t come overnight, but a little time on the water with someone knowledgeable is a great start.</div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Fly Line ‘Belly’ and Mending</span></div>
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<span style="text-decoration: underline;"></span>Let’s talk about ‘belly’.</div>
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Belly can be explained as a downstream arc in the fly line as it floats in the current. Belly can be good or bad, depending on the situation. Think of the fly line as a sail, and the water as the wind. Wind fills the sail and pushes the boat; water fills the belly and pulls the fly.</div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Belly is Bad when.....</span><br />
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When is belly is bad. You might have noticed when there is belly, in fast water, the current fills the belly until it becomes tight and then begins to pull the upstream portion of the fly line – often dragging the fly out of the zone or streaking it across the surface. If you are nymphing, the fly will not be able to sink enough to give a good presentation. If you are dry fly fishing, the fly will have minimal time to present itself.</div>
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In this situation the belly is bad. The fly line must be mended upstream to remove the belly, allowing more time for natural fly presentation. Sometimes the current is so fast that continuous mending is required to allow the fly to drift properly.</div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Belly is Good When.....</span></div>
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When is belly good? When you need to move your fly, to speed it up, swim it faster or skitter it cross the surface. This is often the case when the current is slow, or at the end of the swing or drift.</div>
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Here’s one example. You’re swinging a streamer. It’s halfway through the swing and the current starts to slow. The line stops swinging so the fly stops swimming and begins to sink to the bottom. There is still a lot of water left to fish but not enough current to move the fly. This is where you want to have belly to pull the fly through the last half of the swing.</div>
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During your swing, as the fly line begins to slow, mend a downstream belly into the fly line, allowing more water to fill the belly, thus pulling the fly and continuing the swing. This will also work to skitter a dry fly across the surface.</div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Lets Start Fishin'</span></div>
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Let’s say, for the sake of example, we are mending upstream. You have made your cast across the current and a down stream belly is starting to form. Do not simply flip the rod tip upstream. This is a classic mistake that will only tighten the line, increase the bellydrag and pull the fly towards you and out of the zone. You must first lift the line off the water and then lay the line over.</div>
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Every mending situation is different. There are times when you can slowly lift the line and simply lay it back on the water. Other times you need to mend quickly. Imagine your rod is a paint brush. Now using only the rod tip, lift the line and quickly flick paint in the direction you want to mend.</div>
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With practice, you will see that when you flick a mend, it will roll down the line. The harder you flick, the farther down the line it rolls. The farther you need to mend, the higher you need to lift the line off the water.</div>
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It’s hard to explain on paper so go out and practice. Paint circles and flick paint. Observe the result of the rod tip action and the effect it has on the fly line. The fly line will always follow the rod tip. The wider the circle you paint with the rod tip, the wider the circle the fly line will make.<br />
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Concentrate on mending techniques, your flies with drift more naturally and you'll be in contact with a fish more often.<br />
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Thanks to www.deneki.com for help with this tip.</div>
Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4651153097938584027.post-14247683387957303742014-12-12T19:55:00.002-08:002015-09-20T10:09:13.300-07:00Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Installing the DecksWith the completion of the paint job on the interior it is finally time to permanently install the two side decks which will cover the dry storage compartments and the front deck that fits into the stem.<br />
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<b><i>The two side decks and the front deck fit into the stem have been epoxied and screwed into place.</i></b></div>
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Installing the Deck Pieces</h3>
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The three deck pieces have been previously fit and the screw holes drilled and countersunk for wood plugs. I had to do a little prep work prior to installing them.</div>
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I first sanded the interior plywood sides above the Durabak paint with 220 grit paper with my 5" random orbital sander. I also finish sanded the gunnels inside and out with 220 grit sandpaper. Once that was done I sanded the tops of the deck frames with 80 grit sandpaper to prepare them to receive thickened epoxy to glue the tops down.</div>
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I next vacuumed up all the saw dust created doing the prep work. I then mixed up a batch of thickened epoxy to use as glue. I used 1 ounce of fast set hardener and 2 ounces of the compatible resin. Once mixed I added wood flour to thicken the epoxy to the consistency of a normal glue. I coated the tops of the dry box frame work and then carefully placed one of the side deck tops. Once aligned with the pre-drilled screw holes I used #8 x 3/4 silicon bronze screws to attach the deck piece. I repeated the process with the opposite side and the front deck.</div>
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Epoxy Fillets</h3>
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Once the decks were epoxied to the framework the next step was using epoxy peanut butter to install fillets at the joint of the decks to the interior sides. </div>
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I used 3/4" blue masking tape and masked a line on the decks and on the sides so I had a finished fillet of about 3/8". This is about the size of a rounded wooden tongue suppressor. Using masking tape insures a nice straight fillet and minimizes the cleanup and sanding. The key is to (a) take your time and mask straight true lines (b) mix the peanut butter to the proper consistency, it must be firm and non sagging, and (c) to let the epoxy fillet set up long enough prior to pulling the masking.</div>
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Once the masking was pulled, I let the epoxy fillet set up a bit more and then wet one of my fingers in a protective glove with acetone and swiped it down the length of the fillets. This smooths the fillet out nicely.</div>
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<b><i>The 3/8" epoxy fillet is smoothed out a finger in a glove with acetone. Once it sets up and hardens it just needs a little detail sanding by hand and then it can be flow coated with epoxy.</i></b></div>
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Clay Hashhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02834449916125173848noreply@blogger.com0