Chironomids - Their Importance to Fly Fishers

For most of us the thought of chironomids just makes us shake our head and wonder why. When we contemplate tossing a tiny midge pattern into that huge expanse of a lake it borders on the irrational. What chance is there that a trout would be able to distinguish our offering in that vast expanse of water poses many questions. One of them is why bother? Fortunately for us stillwater fly fishers the reality of presenting chironomids is different than our initial perception. Especially when it comes to the, pupa and larva in particular. Trout are more than capable of tracking down this calorie rich food source, often in alarming numbers, much more than we wish to give them credit for.

What is the real importance of chironomids to our stillwater fly fishing endeavors? Lets review some facts. Based upon studies, Chironomids are often acknowledged as the most important food source for stillwater trout. Throughout the fly fishing season, daytime feeding samples show that on some lakes 50% of the trout's daytime feeding consists of Chironomids. This drops to 14% for those fish feeding in the evening or at night. Of most importance is the fact that Chironomids are much more significant as a daytime food source.

Once we arrive on the lake and get firmly anchored into correct position we must choose a presentation technique based upon the conditions at hand while answering the challenge of what pattern to choose. Sounds pretty basic, right? We need to learn the life cycle of a chironomid to do so.


Chironomid Hatches

What about the Chironomid hatches? What time of year are they available to the trout and at what stage?

In general, various species of Chironomids hatch whenever there is water free of ice. Seasonal peaks occur from the third week in May to the second week in June and then steadily decline into the fall months. However, very large hatches of individual species can occur at most any time of the year on specific stillwaters. You need to do your homework to determine the hatches on the stillwaters you intend to fish. Use the internet or talk to fly shops in the areas you are intending to fish. Get informed.

Chironomid larva on the lake bottom will sometimes exceed 50,000 individuals per square meter and thus form 'major' hatches. If you are fishing in a 'major' hatch, use a fly that is slightly larger than the actual size of the pupa. For the fly fisher, minor hatches often result in more fish than a major hatch. Hatches usually occur during the daylight hours but various species will hatch at night.

As with all food sources that trout eat, the ultimate success for us fly fishers depends upon an intimate knowledge of the chironomid life cycle. Over the course of the season trout see and consume enough chironomids that they often react in a conditioned response whether there is a hatch or not. In essence if your fly is in front of their noses and you have tied on a reasonable imitation, they will probably eat it. This aspect is why we should not give up on targeting chironomids when fishing stillwaters.

Chironomid 101
I've been compiling research on chironomids from my library and from articles on the web and am writing a series of Articles on Chironomids that cover their Entomolgy and tactics for imitating them. I'll call the series of articles Chironomid 101. I'll also be integrating these articles in the Bug Section of the website. Keep tuned for some inside information on Chironomids from Brian Chan, Phil Rowley and a host of others.

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Fillets and 6" Bi-Axial Cloth

This weekend was sort of a mixed bag. I've been working on laminating the rounded transom, which received its 3rd layer of 3mm Okoume Plywood this morning, and getting caught up with a few other projects. I've been working on the epoxy peanut butter fillets that go on the inside of the junction between the sides and the bottom and started building the molds for the pedestals which the seats will be mounted to.

Fillets 

The bottom and the sides were stitched together with 16 gauge wire. Applying fillets between the stitches will enable me to then remove the stitches and fillet the entire joint. It's a two step process.

• The first step to stabilize the connection between the sides and the bottom was to place fillets of epoxy peanut butter at the junction of the sides to the bottom ( the inside of the chine) between the wire stitches. This essential glues the sides to the bottom.
• Tip. When you mix the epoxy make sure that it is mixed for at least 2 to 3 minutes and then add the wood flour. It will take more than you think and it has to be thick so it won't sag. 
• Once you have the epoxy peanut butter mixed to the right consistency you can apply it with a mixing stick and then use a yellow squeegee with a rounded corner to smooth it out. My squeegee comes with a radius of about 5/8". Apply the peanut butter to the joint between the stitches.
• Once this dries overnight you can cut and remove the stitches. 
• When the stitches are out sand the fillets with 80 grit sandpaper with a 5" random orbital sander. Also sand the hole where the stitches were placed.
• After sanding, vacuum up all the dust and then wipe all the surfaces with acetone.

Now for Phase Two of the Fillet 

• Take a compass and mark a 1 1/2" radius on one edge of your yellow squeegee. Use a bend sander or random orbital sander to shape the radius. Sand a bevel for a fine edge.
• You will be using 6" Bi-axial Glass to reinforce the interior chine joint. Set up a 2' x 8' long piece of plywood on sawhorses. This will be your glassing table.
• Pre-cut the 6" Bi-axial glass cloth for both chines and the stem. There will be two pieces about 13' long and one piece about 2'6" long. 
• Cut these pieces and set them on the glassing table.
• Next mix up about 12 ounces of epoxy and then thicken it with wood flour to the consistency of peanut butter, non-sagging peanut butter, thicker than you think. 
• Tip! - You will be placing this at the interior chine joint and it will create a cove. If the peanut butter is not thick enough it will sag down off the sides and onto the bottom. This is not good. I found this out the hard way!
• Spread the epoxy peanut butter and then use the squeegee to shape the joint. Don't over work it or over think it just get it on. It will shortly be covered with more resin and the Bi-axial cloth.
• Do the chines first and then do the stem. My transom isn't installed yet so I will be doing the transom later.

Next Apply the Bi-axial Fiberglass.

• Lay out one of the 6" Bi-axial glass strips on the glassing table.
• Mix up about 12 ounces of resin.
• Pour the resin down the center of the cloth and work it into the glass mesh with your squeegee making sure that the cloth is entirely "wet out".
• Once the cloth is saturated fold it back on itself three or four times to facilitate carrying it to the boat.
• Lay the cloth on top of the filleted joint. It should be approximately 3" on the bottom and 3" up the sides.
• Once the cloth is laid out to it's full length. go back and smooth the cloth into the fillets with your gloved hand.
• Use your fingers to spread the cloth out and remove any wrinkles or bubbles. You can also use the squeegee.
• Once the cloth is laid out you can go on to the next piece and repeat the process.
• Note: on the stem leave about 1 1/2" at the top without the fillet or glass. 
• Once all three pieces are down you can mix some epoxy and take a brush and wet out all the spots that are still white of that seem to need a little more epoxy.

Fishing the Lower Sac

I've been talking about getting up north and fishing the Lower Sac for the last month or so. As usual talk but no action. The Lower Yuba usually wins out. It took the initiative of three friends to get 'er done. Bob Feld and Joe Byrne who are fishing buddies got a call from Northern California guide Matt Mitchell. He told them that the Lower Sac was fishing great. I was fishing the Lower Yuba with another fishing buddy Frank Rinella and we ran into them and started talking fishing. One thing lead to another and a date was set up. That was for this last Thursday. Bob and Joe arranged to hook up with Matt Mitchell. Frank called his buddy, the legend, Chris King, asked if he was available, he was, and we were set.

For those that don't know of Chris King, he's one of the premier guides on just about any Northern California water. He's guiding part time these days and we were fortunate to get him. It was fun listening to all the old stories that Frank and Chris shared.  They go back a ways. Chris is a consummate pro and just has that comfortable nothing to prove way about him. Its about having a great day out on the river and whatever comes. With Chris that means fish. He knows every nook and cranny on the river.

Chris rowed us up stream from the Posse Grounds and started on river left up as far as he could manage, We worked that area and let the hordes of drift boats head downstream. Chris and I think alike. He doesn't want to fight the crowd either.

As we fished river right Matt worked river left, which is faster current. Matt has a motor on his drift boat so he was working the other side making long drifts and them motoring up to try it again. They seemed to be hooking up regularly on the other side. Matt Mitchell is a great guide, a character, with a big smile on his face all day long. He's a hard worker and got Bob and Joe into fish all day long.

Chris rigged us up with straight fluorocarbon, with about a 6' or 7' drop from the Thingamabobber to the shot, about 3 AB's. He rigged with a non-beaded fox pupa, a queen prince and a birds nest. That was pretty much the rotation for the day. He tried a knockoff of the Red Headed Stepchild, but it didn't stay on too long. He said, "Really, have you ever seen anything like that in the river before?" or something to that effect.

As to the fishing, I hooked a nice fish right off the bat and it tore upstream. It raced upstream, I worked it back and started working it out of the current and it came un-buckled. Hmmm, nice fish, heavy, tough pull, unbuckled. A short time later, hooked up again, worked it back, got it into the soft water, headed for some brush underwater right alongside the boat, put a little pressure on it to keep it out of the wood, unbuckled. I think you're starting to get the picture. This was the kind of day it was for me. Hook up, fish takes off, goes airborn, unbuckled. Fish hooked, screams upstream, get tangled up with Frank in the back before he realizes I'm even hooked up, line tangled, fish goes air born, unbuckled. I was just sort of snake bit. Frank all the while, landed most of the fish he hooked up or at least a respectable percentage. I was batting 0% for fish to the net most of the day.

After lunch we slid into the biggest riffle of the day and I hooked a nice fish as soon as we hit the drop-off. The fish headed straight across for the big water and I was into my backing in no time. I was thinking this is going to be tough. Chris followed downstream and we rode the wave train for a good 300 yards. At least it seemed that long. Once we got to a place where Chris could eddy out I still had a lot of work to do. I'd barely got the backing reeled up and my line back on my reel. The fish was heavy and kept heading out into the current. I'd work it in to about 20 or 30 feet and off it would go again. This happened about 3 times. Once it started tiring it still was a job getting it to the net. I just kept patient and kept on working it. I lifted as Chris got ready with the net and job well done. Here's the result.

So if you have a chance get up and fish the Lower Sac try to contact Matt Mitchell, Chris King or my buddy Mike Hibbard. They'll show you a good time. It's still early, the salmon haven't shown up yet and there are many opportunities for nice fishing.

Tight Lines!