Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Varnishing

Well, I've got the boat flipped back right side up and back in the paint booth. I've been taking a break from the boat for the last 3 weeks or so as I built a pole barn/shed out behind my shop. My brother Craig and his wife Toni came out and helped me build it. The weather in Idaho had shut him down so they came for visit and gave them a job helping me. I'll have a post about that process on another day.

So, right now I'm about three quarters of the way to a minimum of six coats of varnish to apply to all exposed wood parts on the boat. Ugh! I'm four coats into it and all I can say is you have to be patient and take your time. You can't be in any hurry. There's lots of prep, masking and sanding to the process. But most importantly, is the actual technique involved with the applying of the varnish.

Preparation

The first thing I had to do was to mask off the painted sides. I purchased a special 3M Scotch Blue Painters Tape for Delicate Surfaces #2080. This tape can stay in place for 60 days. I used this to mask a line right under the gunnels. I then used  48" painters masking plastic and taped it to the 1st layer of tape at the gunnels. This protects the entire paint on the exterior of the boat.

I next masked of the interior floors areas and sides that are painted with Durabak truck bed liner. The tape doesn't stick real well to the Durabak but I did the best I could.

Sanding

The Process. All the mahogany and oak parts on the boat have been coated with at least 3 or 4 coats of epoxy prior to starting the varnishing. The varnish job will be a minimum of 6 coats. I will work towards applying the initial 4 coats of varnish which will provide a solid varnish base coating. Once the 4 coats are applied I will need to do a real complete sanding of everything to make sure the surfaces are flat. It is necessary to wait for this heavy sanding as you need enough mil thickness to accomplish the flattening. Four coats should do it. Once the flattening sanding is done, I need to put on at least 2 or 3 finish coats of varnish. Sound pretty simple hey?

The initial sanding prior to the first coat of varnish and the next four coats is done using 220 grit sandpaper and/or a Scotch-Brite pad. I used 220 grit with a sanding block on the flat surfaces and the Scotch-Brite pad on the curved surfaces. I used the sanding block with the Scotch-Brite pads where I could.

Scotch-Brite pads come in various grits. I have primarily used the red pads (Fine about 300 grit). The Grey (Ultra Fine about 400 grit) will come into play on the final two coats. The sanding between the coats is mainly a scuffing to bond the next coat.

Sanding Reality - The main thing I have learned at this point is how the temperature of your workplace really affects the process. My shop has been getting down to about 45 to 50 degrees F at night. I keep an electric oil heater going in my finishing booth days and nights and have been able to maintain about 55 to 60 degrees F in the finishing booth. The main thing that the lower temperatures does is to delay drying time. The lower temperatures really only effect the time it takes to dry. My drying times between coats is running about 48- 72 hours. To be really dry it needs 72 hours. When is it dry enough?

Good question. You can "Hot Coat" varnish coats if the varnish is still soft without sanding. Sounds good doesn't it. I have been doing a sort of in-between. Let's call it a "Warm Coat". I've been letting each coat dry for about 48 hours and then using the 220 grit with a block to knock down the "nibs' and then block sanding with the red Scotch-brite pad. At 48 hours the coat is still soft enough the it clogs the sandpaper, but works well with the Scotch-brite pads.

To be able to sand with sandpaper the varnish needs to be hard enough to create fine dust and not clog your paper. In my case this will take a minimum of 72 hours, maybe longer. Being I am currently at my fourth coat I'm letting the 4th coat completely dry before sanding it flat.

Varnishing

Let me just start out with, "Varnish is intimidating as hell". There are hundreds of articles on the web with horror story after horror story about applying varnish. There are 4 important rules for varnishing that I have gleaned from the web and from to talking with experienced painters. Here they are and believe me I learned them the hard way.

(1) How you treat the varnish in the can
(2) How you get the varnish out of the can
(3) The brush that you use
(4) Your brushing technique

How You Treat the Varnish in the Can

Don't shake varnish! Varnish should always be stirred, stirred slowly enough that you don't whip it into a froth. If you shake the can or stir too vigorously you will be incorporating air into the varnish. Air in varnish is bad. You must stir varnish if you are using satin varnish as it has flattening agents that must be thoroughly incorporated.

If you are using gloss varnish you do not need to stir the varnish other than to incorporate added thinner.

Decant Varnish into a Smooth Sided Container

Do not apply varnish directly from the supply can. If you dip the brush into the can and then "scrape off" the excess on the lip of the can you will send a cascade of frothy varnish back into the can. This froth will be picked up with the next brush load, carrying a cargo of air bubble to your varnished surface of the wood. Transfer the varnish from the can into a smooth sided plastic container.

Thin varnish prior to application. I learned this the hard way. Thinning a newly opened can is impossible since there is no room for the added volume of thinner. Further thinning in the can is subject to inaccuracies since you can't easily determine how much varnish remains in the can. Only by decanting the varnish into a separate container can you accurately add the appropriate volume of thinner. The first coat of varnish should be thinned by 20% to 25%. (This does not apply if you are applying varnish over sanded flattened and epoxied wood.) Subsequent coats should be thinned by 5% to 10%. Thin after you have decanted the varnish into the application container.

Remember, the whole point of thinner in varnish in the first place is to make it easier to spread. The varnish needs to be thinned to adjust flow-out to current temperatures and humidity conditions.

By thinning varnish you are simply adjusting the viscosity of the varnish. Added thinner makes the varnish easier to apply by reducing the viscosity so that it will flow out and level better, thus allowing air bubbles to float to the surface and pop before they become encapsulated in the curing film. Brush marks will also level faster when the varnish is properly thinned.

One thing that lower temperatures in my shop contributed to is a thicker application of varnish. It has made keeping a "wet edge" difficult. I placed my can in hot water prior to starting but it just doesn't stay warm enough. Thinning will help solve this problem.

Use a Natural Bristle Brush Made for Applying Varnish

A varnish brush should have a good "reservoir" so as to allow you to "flow-on" a good quantity of varnish before you need to return to the container for more. Here's a contradiction to what you may hear. Never use a synthetic bristle brush or a "foam brush", or a paint pad.

A good test of a proper varnish brush is to dip the very tip of the brush into mineral spirits. If the brush wicks the mineral spirits up into the bristles, its a good brush. A "Badger Hair" brush is often recommended.

Brushing Technique

The brushing technique is very important. The varnish should be applied by "flowing" it in one direction. Never brush back and forth! If you are right handed begin at the left of am imaginary area about 12"  to 18" square. Make a single long stroke from top to bottom (across the grain). of your imaginary square applying light to moderate pressure. The bristles of your brush should flex slightly. They should not bend to the ferrule of the brush. Then, returning to the top of your initial stroke and using the same brush stroke, begin to drag from the top down. Once you have filled in your imaginary square, brush from right to left. from the dry to the wet (with the grain) to smooth and flatten the varnish.

Move the brush slow enough so as to not incorporate air bubbles into the finish. Continue in slightly overlapping pattern of brush strokes until you have covered the area. Tipping off in this fashion further levels the varnish and breaks any air bubble that may have become trapped in the finish. Again move the brush slowly. Brush only with the tips of the brush.

The Kingfisher's First Float

Well, after 7 months of dedicated work, countless hours of sanding and layers of epoxy and marine spar varnish, I was able to find out if my new handmade drift boat floats. It did, and it did so better than I had dreamed of. Let me explain. I had a few concerns prior to launching the "Barca de Trucha", (Trout Boat). Little nagging questions.

First, the boat is 17 feet long from the bow to the stern. This is about 18" longer than my Hyde Low-Profile. It is also wider by about 6 inches, I was concerned that it would be a little to big for the Lower Yuba. An air craft carrier in a small bay so to speak. It isn't. It floats like a leaf, lighter and more responsive than my Hyde. Being so, makes it feel smaller, I always referred to my Hyde as a sports car. Nimble and quick to the response of the oars. The "Barca" is just as quick if not quicker.

Second, it seemed to be a work of art more than a working drift boat. Once I floated it down the river it just felt right. It will be a working drift boat come what may, scratches, dings, scrapes, it will be a fisher.

Third, Rope Seats? The rope seats look real cool, but what would they feel like, Uncomfortable? Pinching your rear? Well, definitely not your padded plastic seat. They felt fine. I wore lightweight shorts and was comfortable. The ropes will need to be tightened until they stretch out properly, but other than that definitely a passing grade.

The first float came with a sense of pride. Every piece of wood, every screw, every coat of epoxy and varnish was placed with care and thought. There is a sense of pride that is sort of like catching a fish on a fly rod you've built with the fly you tied. Now I can add "the boat I built". I've always been a craftsman and this is just another extension of that. I take pride in what I do, I do was I say, I keep my word and promises. My Mom and Dad raised me that way. This is just another mission accomplished, a plan come to fruition. I thank my Mom, Geri, for encouraging me to pursue my passions. This is is just who I am.

I am looking forward to many years of fishing in this new boat and coaxing many fish to the net. More stories, more time with good friends and family on the rivers of the west. It was worth all the time and effort! No regrets!

Photos from Launch Day

Ready to Head down the River

Ist ferry across the riffle

Zack the Photographer

My lovely wife, Laura, enjoying the inaugural float

Running a Chute

Zack getting ready to take the plunge

Taking our time down the river

Zack, Thanks for your help and encouragement along the way!

Made it to the takeout with nothing but smiles!

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - I'm Done

I started the "Kingfisher" build in September of 2014. Today is April 20th, 2015. It's been quite a journey. I purchased the plans from Jason Cajune and they were worth every cent! The varnish has been curing and hardening for about two weeks, The build has taken me about 7 1/2 months, not bad from what I've heard. This includes 3 weeks off to build a pole barn/garage, so the actual build time was a more like a strong six months. I have probably averaged about 40 hours a week, so I've got something like 1000 hours into it, but who's really counting. My trailer should be arriving next week, so the trip to see if it floats is about a week away. 

Photo Gallery of the Kingfisher

The finished boat is 17'0" long. It has a beam of  6'6". The width at the bottom is 4'10". It should float high and dry and be real stable.

I had a decal made with my "Fly Fishing Traditions" logo imprinted on it. The sides are 3/8" Okoume plywood that have about 3 coats of epoxy and layers of fiberglass cloth. The main body of the boat is painted on the outside with "Blue Water Marine Paint". It is a silicone copolymer topside enamel. The color is "Super White. The bottom and 4" up the sides at the chines are coated with "Linex" bedliner, smooth Black. The gunnels are black oak with 3 coats of epoxy and then 6 coats of flat "Last n Last" satin varnish.

The transom is "Rounded". Constructing the rounded transom was the most intimidating part of the construction. My plans had a squared off transom so I had to figure this out myself. It was bent around a form using 3 layers of 1/8" Okoume plywood. The rounded transom has 3 coats of epoxy and 6 coats of varnish. It turned out great!

The interior of the boat has decks and sides of Okoume mahogany plywood. The rowers seat and the fore and aft seats are made from white oak. The floors, dry boxes and the lower portion of the sides are coated with bed liner that was applied with a roller. The oars are Sawyer square topped counter balanced oars,

The fore and aft seats are made with white oak. The base of the seat was steam bent using 3/16" x 2 1/2" strips. The seats have 2 coats of epoxy and 6 coats of varnish. The rope for the seats are 3/8" diameter double braided poly. The seats are mounted on "Springfield" swivel bases with a bracket that allows them to be removed.

The rowers seat slides in a track and can be adjusted forward and backward. Rubber retainers hold the rowers seat in position. The deck in the background has a dry storage box that is accessible by opening the hatch doors. There are dry boxes on each side.  

The rear knee brace is made by laminating 3 layers of 1/8" Okoume mahogany plywood. I constructed a steam box to steam the plywood and then placed them in a plywood form to conform to the desired shape. I call it a "George Jetson" knee brace. There are two cup holders integrated in the middle section.

At the rounded transom there is a wooden plate with a handle integrated into it that reinforces the transom and is where the anchor rope runs through the hull. There are two pulleys that are lined up with the hole that runs through the transom that guides the anchor rope.

There are 4 hatches that access the dry storage boxes. two at the starboard and two at the port side. The dry boxes ate about 5 feet long. The cup holders are sealed t keep the dry storage boxes dry. The foot rest for the rower is adjustable to 4 different positions. There are two positions for the oar locks.

The front seat has a large pedestal with storage underneath. You can see the circular lamination of the seats. There are two cup holders tucked up in the bow section. There is a triangular casting deck to catch your fly line when you are fishing.

An ice chest fits snugly into the pedestal under the front seat.

There are rod holders tucked under the main deck on each side, starboard and port side. You can store two rods on each side for a total of 4 rods. This is a spey rod broken down in half. The rod holders will take 10 foot rods fully assembled.

All I need is a trailer and it will be a fishing machine. Can't wait!!!

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Painting the Hull

Now that I've got the boat upside down, all prepped and masked I'm ready to start painting the hull. I'm using a one part paint. It is a polyurethane enamel. It will provide a hard protective coating and with super high gloss and has very good color retention and is durable. The paint was manufactured by Blue Marine. I decided on their Super White Color.

I'm using "Blue WaterMarine Paint", which is a one part polyurethane enamel. 

The color is 'Super White'

The first step is to get everything I'll need to get the job done. Here's the list;

• Blue Water Marine Paint, Super White
• Half gallon plastic container
• Stir stick
• Toluene for thinning - 1 ounce per quart. 5-10%
• 1 pint plastic measuring cup
• Excellent quality brush with soft tips
• 6" foam roller and frame
• Disposable paint tray
• Clean Rags
• Tack Cloth

The first order of business was to re-vacuum the areas to be painted. I then used the two rag method and wiped down the surface with Acetone. Once wiped down, I used a tack cloth to do the final cleanup of the surfaces to remove any remaining dust particles.

Next I opened the quart can of paint and pour it into the half gallon plastic container. Measure 1 ounce of Toluene into the small pint plastic measuring cup and pour it into the larger container with the paint. Use the stir stick and stir for 10 minutes. Yeah, really 10 minutes.

Next set up the roller pan, roller frame and foam roller.Get the kind that have rounded edges at the ends. Get your paint brush.

Time for Painting

The method for applying the paint is referred  to as "Rolling and Tipping". the paint will be applied with the "Roller" and then "Tipped" with the brush. I'm right handed so I decided to work from right to left. I will be brushing left to right, which is opposite to the way I'm working. This is important. When you are "Tip" the paint you always want to go from the dry area back onto the painted area.

The boat will take two coats with a hand sanding to 320 grit between coats.

Here's how the first coat is done.

• The fist thing to do is to load the roller with paint and then roll it repeatedly on the roller pan to have a loaded foam roller but not overloaded. I count to at least ten strokes each time I load or reload the foam roller. 
• Starting at the transom and working to the left I roll out the paint working to the left with vertical stokes. Press hard on the roller to squeeze out all the paint. If you don't the paint will go on too thick. I work to the left until I am loosing coverage with the paint.
• I then work the roller horizontally to spread the paint out evenly to the left. 
• I finish this application with a vertical roll at the left edge to create a straight vertical line. You will end up with a vertical line with dry  surface on the left of the line and paint on the right.
• One roller load covers an area about 24"tall by about 1 foot wide.
• The paint will have lots of air bubbles in it and should be a thin even coating. 
• Put the roller down in the tray and stat brushing from left to right. Start at the top and brush horizontally.
• Place the brush on the dry portion of the vertical line on the left and brush to the right with a light touch. 
• Lift the tips off the paint at the end of each stroke. Feather the paint out.
• Continue the same method from top to bottom using horizontal passes.
• Start back at the top and repeat.
• That's it. Repeat the same steps all the way around the boat, move quickly and efficiently and keep a wet edge.

Prepping for the second coat

Once the paint had dried thoroughly, which was about 48 hours in my case as it was getting below 50 degrees in my shop at night, I hand sanded the surface with 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding pad. I then used a 320 grit Scotchbrite pad and hit the surface once more. 

I then vacuumed the surface and finished up with a tack cloth.

Just repeat the same process as the first coat.

Summary

I'm really happy with the paint job. It's not perfect like a spray finish but it has that hand made look to it. A few brush marks here and there but I think a job well done.

Kingfisher Drift Boat - Prepping the Hull for Painting

It's time to get ready to paint the hull, I've done about all I can do on the interior of the boat and it's time to work on the outside for a while, This will entail flipping the boat upside down to work on. To get ready for painting the hull I had do do quite a bit of work prior to getting it done.

Getting a little ahead of myself. Here's the hull after it was painted.

The critical path went something like this

1. Flip the Boat over
2. Sand or use a cabinet scrapper to prep the bottom of the gunnels
3. Flow coat the underneath side of the gunnels once they are prepped.
4. Run a fillet of epoxy peanut butter at the junction of the gunnels to the sides.
5. Run another flow coat of epoxy on the underside of the gunnels and coat the fillet
6. Sand and flow coat the rounded transom with it's last coat of epoxy
7. Finish sand and the underside of the gunnel, the sides and the rounded transom progressively to 220 grit.
8. Mask off the gunnels and the rounded transom to get ready for painting the hull.

Flipping the Boat

I enlisted the help of three friends to flip the boat over. It has been residing right side up on a 4' x 10' table with rolling casters. The first task was getting the boat on the floor of the shop. I worked the boat to one end of the table. Imagine launching a boat from a trailer. Once I got the stern on the floor we just lifted the bow and slid the table out from under the boat. I had furniture blankets on the floor. The gunnels are coated with at least two coats of epoxy but I still wanted to have blankets under anything on the boat that contacted the floor. The steps went sort of like this.

• Place furniture blankets on the floor in position so that as the boat is lifted up on one side and supported on one gunnel (half-way flipped) the blankets are under the spots of the center section of the gunnel. Pretty much in the center of the boat at the oar locks.
• I also placed furniture blankets that are folded up in multiple layers under the stem and transom so that when it is flipped it is cushioned under these areas.
• Two people are on one side of the boat and two are on the other.
• The boat is lifted by two people so it is resting on one gunnel, basically half flipped. The other two people help support the boat in the vertical position.
• It is then tilted over to the upside down position and supported by the two people on the other side of the boat.
• Once the boat is flipped and is resting on the floor, lift the bow up and slide extended sawhorses, about 5 1/2' long, underneath so the bow is supported by both gunnels. Cover the tops of the sawhorses with padded materials. I used old towels.
• Repeat the same procedure for the stern of the boat.
• The boat should now be flipped upside down and resting on the padded extended sawhorse.
• Ready to go to work.

Prepping the Gunnels and Rounded Transom for Flow Coating

One problem when flow coating the gunnels when the boat is right side up, is that it is almost impossible not to have drips or runs of epoxy on the underneath side of the gunnels. I found that the best approach is to use fast set hardener in small batches and tend it until you can't mess with it anymore. Even doing this I had some runs and drips. The best way of getting rid of these drips and runs on the underneath side of the gunnels is to use a cabinet scrapper. The scrapper removes the material you need to remove quickly and efficiently. Once the runs and drips are knocked down I then final sanded them by hand. I used 120 grit followed by 150 grit followed by 220 grit. They turned out pretty darned nice. Note: Remember to use cabinet scrappers to do the dirty work.

I finish sanded the rounded transom next to get it ready for its last flow coat of epoxy. Most of the rounded transom will not get painted and the mahogany plywood will be varnished.

This photo shows the detailed and sanded underneath side of the gunnels and the epoxy fillet at the junction of the gunnels to the sides.

Flow Coating the Gunnels and Rounded Transom

Once the underneath side of the gunnels were sanded it was time to flow coat them. I masked off the gunnels at the center of the 1/4" round over all around the boat. I didn't want the epoxy to run back down the face of the gunnels. I also flow coated the rounded transom. This is basically the last of the flow coating of epoxy on the entire boat. Wow, it's been a long time coming.

Sanding the Sides, Gunnels and Rounded Transom

Now that the flow coating was completed on the hull it was time to finish sand the entire exterior of the boat. I used a random orbital sander and sanded the sides to 220 grit. Being that the rounded transom is curved I used a flexible pad and hand sanded it down to 220 grit. I hand sanded the underneath side of the gunnels to 220 grit.

Clean Up and Masking

The last steps were to vacuum all the surfaces and then wipe the surfaces down with acetone and then start masking. Once the surfaces were vacuumed, I used the two rag method for prepping the surfaces. One rag is used to wipe down the surface and a clean rag follows.

Now it's masking time. I used 1/4" wide green masking tape that is used in auto body shops to mask the line that I will paint to. Once the 1/4' tape is laid down I use a masking machine with 3M 3/4" blue tape and 12" wide masking paper that comes on a roll. I taped off about 12" from the 1/4" green tape along the gunnels, the rounded transom and the Linex material that wraps up the sides about 4".

After the sides were masked to isolate the portion of the boat to be painted I checked to see that the tape was set tight at the paint line.

You can see the green 1/4" wide masking tape at the line to be painted. It is taped to the Linex that runs 4" up the sides. I then used a masking machine to finish up.

Next Up - Painting

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Hatch Trim & Hatches

I enjoyed the holidays with my family and got back on the build with installing the hatch trim and making the hatches.

There are 4 deck hatches and two pedestal hatches. The 4 deck hatches access the dry storage boxes. There are dry boxes on each side, each with two access hatches.

I first had to make backing that glues underneath the deck plywood along the edges. This reinforces the decks and gives up something to attach the hinge screws. The hatch backing is made with strips of 1/4" Okoume plywood that are about 2" wide. I made the strips and cut them to length. I had to make special strips that were about 5/8" wide that butted to the deck rail that runs lengthwise under the deck. Once these were cut I set them aside to flow coat with epoxy before gluing them in place under the deck and around the hatch opening.

I them had to make the hatch trims. These are strips of white oak that are 1/4" thick  x 1 1/4" wide. I made a list of the sizes required for each hatch opening and cut them approximately 2" longer than the finish length. Once all the pieces were cut to length I had to cut a saw kerf on one side near the top edge create a slot to install hatch coaming. Hatch coaming is a type of gasket seal. The saw kerf is about 3/32" deep x 3/32" wide. It is cut on one edge about 5/32" from the top edge. I set up fingerboards on my table saw and cut the saw kerf on each piece. I then set them on a table to flow coat them with epoxy.

Here is a piece of the hatch trim. It is 1/4" x 1 1/4". The saw kerf is on the top right.

Once they were flow coated and finish sanded it was time to install them. The hatch trim pieces fit inside the hatch openings. The bottom of the hatch trims are set flush with the bottom of the hatch backing and stick up above the deck about 3/4". The pieces are glued in place with thickened epoxy. Once the pieces are glued in place. (4 for each hatch) I cut sticks that were wedged inside to hold them in place. I did this for the 4 deck hatch openings and the two pedestal hatch openings.

Here's a photo of the hatch trim installed on the front pedestal. It sticks proud of the opening by about 3/4". The back is flush with the back side of the opening. It was glued into the opening with thickened epoxy.

This photo shows the hatch trim installed at one of the dry box openings. The opening has been filleted with epoxy peanut butter to seal the deck opening.

Hatches

I next had to make the hatches. They are constructed with white oak trim that has a rabbit to accept a 1/4" Okoume plywood panel. The stock was milled to 5/8" x 3/4". I milled a 5/32" x 5/32" rabbit on one edge to accept the panel. The hatches must be large enough to fit the weatherstripping. The next step was to mitre the pieces for each hatch. I then cut the plywood panel to size.

I glued the miters and the rabbet to accept the panel with thickened epoxy. I clamped the assembly all at once.

Here is one of the pedestal hatches. This is the back side. It looks sort of like a tray.

Here is the front side of he same pedestal hatch. It has been flow coated with epoxy and sanded. It will get one more flow coat of epoxy and then multiple coats of varnish.

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build. - Installing the Deck Trim and the Rod Rack Trim

My last post for the Kingfisher drift boat build was on December 12th. It's now January 10th. What the heck have I been doing for the last month. Well, I've mainly been taking care of details. Prior to the holidays  I installed the wood plugs at the deck and the deck trim. The progression was;

• Plugging the screw holes in the decks once they were installed.
• Making the trim 
• Steam bending the front deck trim
• Installing the trim at the decks
• Installing the trim at the rod holder
• Flow coating the deck trim with epoxy

Installing the wood plugs in the main deck. 

The main deck which curves around at the front is screwed to the framework with #8 x 1" silicon bronze screws. There are about 32 of them. I used a 3/8" countersink bit to allow for the wood plug. The decks are constructed with 1/4" Okoume mahogany plywood so getting the depth of the countersink right is a little tricky. Too deep and the screw has nothing to secure or not deep enough and you can't install the plugs. It's best to play around with a piece of scrap to get it right. 

I made the plugs with a 3/8" plug cutter and a drill press. I made a bunch of them. Drill a mahogany board and then rip the board on a bandsaw and you've got a bunch of plugs. One tip is to install the clean up any epoxy that oozes up through the holes when you attach the deck. If the epoxy ooze is allowed to set up you will not longer have a 3/8" diameter hole and the 3/8" diameter plug won't fit. I had some of these and it is a pain to get the holes cleaned up. I used a 3/8" diameter brad point drill bit and carefully twisted it by hand to clean up the hole. Don't do it in a drill or you'll be sorry. Again, I found this out.

The photo above shows the glued down deck. The edge trim has not been installed yet. The plugs are installed and finish sanded. You can also see the epoxy fillet at the deck where it joins the sides.

I used Tightbond Waterproof glue to glue in the plugs. Once the glue set up, I used a Japanese hand saw designed to flush cut plugs to cut the plugs off. Once the plugs were cut off I used a 120 grit orbital disc to sand the plugs flush. Be careful not to sand in one spot or you can possibly sand through the flow coats of epoxy on the deck. This is a big problem so don't do it. Once the plugs are flat, final sand the deck progressively to 220 grit.

Installing the deck trims

The next step was to make the deck trims and the trim for the rod rack. I made the deck trim out of  kiln dried white oak. This is fine for the straight pieces but difficult for the curved piece that is placed in front. I made finished stock that was 11/16" x 7/8" for the deck trim and 3/4" x 3/4" for the rod trim. Once the stock was made I used a carbide tipped dado blade with a spacer to make dados in the stock that were about 1/64" wider than 1/4". This dado goes over the 1/4" plywood that is flow coated on each side. The flow coating makes the plywood thicker than 1/4".

This photo shows the curved deck trim installed and epoxied in place. The piece is bent to a radius of about 19". 

The process of making the rounded deck trim involves steam bending and making a form to do so. You also need extra stock as bending a piece like this will take just the right piece and you don't know if it is until you attempt to bend it and clamp it to the form. I broke 3 pieces before I finally got one to bend to the radius. One trick is to make the dado deeper. I broke the first 3 pieces when the dado was 5/16" deep and the first one I tried with a dado that was 7/16" worked.  Was it the grain or the depth of the dado? Not sure but it worked.

I cut the pieces to size, ran the dado and then rounded the top and bottom edges that would be facing the deck, (the side with the dado) with a 1/4" round over bit in a router table.. This would have been impossible to round over once it was installed. (I rounded the other edges once it was glued into place). I then placed the wood piece in a steam tube and steamed it for about 1 1/2 hours. Once it was steamed I clamped it to the form and let it sit clamped up in the form for 24 hours. Like I said this took all day as I broke the first 3 trying to bend them.

I took the piece out of the form the next day and it sprung back quite a bit. I was able to dry fit it onto the curved plywood deck and clamp it in place. I took it out and then coated the inside of the dado with thickened epoxy. More of a runny mayonnaise consistency. I coated it a second time and installed it with 3 way edge clamps.

Once this piece set up, I glued the straight pieces on that run lengthwise to the stern, I used one long piece that was about 7 feet long and a shorter piece that was about 2 feet long on each side. I fit the rear one first and scribed it to the sides at the rear. I fit the longer one between the front curved section and the rear piece. This was very easy. I held this in place with package tape as the 3 way edge clamps would not fit because of the rod rack. I glued on the rod tray trim at the same time.

Flow Coating the Deck Trim

Once the epoxy had set up that glued the deck trim and the rod shelf trim in place I finish sanded the pieces progressively to 220 grit. I then coated the trim with 2 coats of epoxy. I used Raka UV Inhibited Resin mixed with Raka UV Inhibited Fast Set Hardener. This allows you to tend the epoxy as it sets up and eliminate most if not all of the runs, sags and drips. This is good to remember when flow coating anything that is a vertical or sloping surface.

Next Up - Casting Deck

This was all accomplished before the Holidays and I got started back up with installing the front casting deck.

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Installing the Decks

With the completion of the paint job on the interior it is finally time to permanently install the two side decks which will cover the dry storage compartments and the front deck that fits into the stem.

The two side decks and the front deck fit into the stem have been epoxied and screwed into place.

Installing the Deck Pieces

The three deck pieces have been previously fit and the screw holes drilled and countersunk for wood plugs. I had to do a little prep work prior to installing them.

I first sanded the interior plywood sides above the Durabak paint with 220 grit paper with my 5" random orbital sander. I also finish sanded the gunnels inside and out with 220 grit sandpaper. Once that was done I sanded the tops of the deck frames with 80 grit sandpaper to prepare them to receive thickened epoxy to glue the tops down.

I next vacuumed up all the saw dust created doing the prep work. I then mixed up a batch of thickened epoxy to use as glue. I used 1 ounce of  fast set hardener and 2 ounces of the compatible resin. Once mixed I added wood flour to thicken the epoxy to the consistency of a normal glue. I coated the tops of the dry box frame work and then carefully placed one of the side deck tops. Once aligned with the pre-drilled screw holes I used #8 x 3/4 silicon bronze screws to attach the deck piece. I repeated the process with the opposite side and the front deck.

Epoxy Fillets

Once the decks were epoxied to the framework the next step was using epoxy peanut butter to install fillets at the joint of the decks to the interior sides. 

I used 3/4" blue masking tape and masked a line on the decks and on the sides so I had a finished fillet of about 3/8". This is about the size of a rounded wooden tongue suppressor. Using masking tape insures a nice straight fillet and minimizes the cleanup and sanding. The key is to (a) take your time and mask straight true lines (b) mix the peanut butter to the proper consistency, it must be firm and non sagging, and (c) to let the epoxy fillet set up long enough prior to pulling the masking.

Once the masking was pulled, I let the epoxy fillet set up a bit more and then wet one of my fingers in a protective glove with acetone and swiped it down the length of the fillets. This smooths the fillet out nicely.

The 3/8" epoxy fillet is smoothed out a finger in a glove with acetone. Once it sets up and hardens it just needs a little detail sanding by hand and then it can be flow coated with epoxy.

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Painting the Interior with Durabak

I've been preparing for painting the interior areas that will be painted with "Durabak" polyurethane truck bedliner. It is a do-it-yourself product that can be applied by brush, roller or sprayed. Because of all the detailing I will be doing most of it with a roller and cutting in the hard to reach spots with a brush. I'm using the Durabak 18 which is a UV resistant product.

Here's the finished product. Believe me it's a lot of work!

With the Kingfisher I'm painting the following areas with Durabak 18.

• The floors
• The inside and outside of the dry boxes
• The inside and outside of the two pedestals for the seats
• The two hoops for the rowers seats
• The base of the rear casting brace
• The sides up about 6" to 10" depending on the area

Preparing the surfaces

Once I installed the wood plugs for attachment of pulleys, foot braces and the 3 drain plugs I had to fair all of the surfaces to be painted with Durabak. I used an epoxy mixed with micro balloons. This is a fairing mixture for smoothing the surfaces. I used a fast set hardener with it's compatible resin. Micro balloons create a low density filler that is suited for fairing, smoothing out, large areas. It is approximately 30% easier to sand than epoxy thickened with wood flour. When you are doing large areas this really helps. 

I purchased the micro balloons at TAP Plastics of Sacramento, CA. I mixed up batches of 2 ounces of resin to 1 ounce of fast set hardener. This allowed me time to work the filler with a squeegee or a brush and not have it run and drip too much. I mixed the filler to a mayonnaise type consistency. On the more vertical surfaces slightly thicker. I used this filler on the bottom and on relatively vertical surfaces.

Once the filler had set, I sanded the surfaces with 80 grit discs with a 6" or 5" random orbital sander. Once sanded I vacuumed up the surface and reapplied the fairing mixture as necessary. I faired all the surfaces in two layers, sanding in between. Being the Durabak has rubber granules mixed in with it, the surface needs to be flat but not perfect.  This was the first time using the product and I think I probably did a better fairing job that I really needed to.

Once the fairing was completed to satisfaction I sanded all the areas that would be coated with Durabak one last time with 80 grit sandpaper. I hand sanded all the inside corners and areas I could not sand with the random orbital sander.

I vacuumed the surfaces and then used Xylene to clean and etch all the surfaces. The Durabak instructions were very clear to only use Xylene.  

Some of the areas, like the caster's knee brace, was difficult to fair and to mask. I think it came out pretty cool though!

Masking the Surfaces

The areas that were to be varnished and not coated with Durabak had to be masked completely. Durabak is sort of messy and I did not want to have to clean off any drips. I used 1/4" wide masking tape to establish the line to be painted to. I then applied a strip of 3/4" blue masking tape to that line.   Then I used a 3M masking machine with 12' paper and 3/4" blue tape to complete the masking job. I'd say it took me 3 to 4 hours to mask everything off.

This photo shows the inside of the dry boxes, the front pedestal and the line painted forward to the stem (bow). The mahogany deck that will be attached on top of the dry boxes will extend forward to the stem.

Applying the Durabak

It is important to get organized prior to any painting project and this is one of those. I had to gather up a number of items and get everything laid out and organized prior to starting painting. Things like:

• Xylene to thin the Durabak if necessary and to clean up messes
• 4" roller frame
• Special 4' foam rollers provided by Durabak (2)
• Disposable paint trays for a 4" roller frame
• A soft Polyester brush
• A metal mixer wand  - 1 gallon size
• Wooden stir sticks
• Rags

Durabak can be thinned up to 15% with Xylene. I opened the Durabak 18 can and used the metal mixer wand in a cordless drill to stir the material. The instructions are explicit about doing this. Durabak comes in a smooth or a textured type. I'm using the textured. Rubber particles are suspended in the polyurethane paint. The paint must be stirred on a regular basis to keep the particles in suspension. I decided to apply the Durabak straight out of the can. In retrospect, I believe I should have thinned it slightly as I had trouble having the rubber particles clump together. I had to really work the material to spread the rubber particles out evenly. 

The material was fairly easy to apply and I had the first coat done in about 1 1/2 hours. When the first coat was down I was a little disappointed in the way the rubber particles were spread around. The material is recommended to be applied in two coats so I was hoping that the second coat would even the finish out a bit. I waited for the material to be dry to the touch, about 1 hour, to start with the second coat.

I decided to thin the second coat by about 5%. I'm glad I did. I had purchased 1 gallon and had used about 60% of it on the first coat. Thinning it did the trick. It spread evenly and nicely and I had just enough to give everything a second coat. The rubber particles were spread fairly evenly. It's not perfect but it will be fine.

This is the rear Pedestal and the rounded transom. All the wood grain portions or the boat will receive many coats of marine varnish.

It is also important to pull all the masking after applying the second coat and before that Durabak sets up too much. All the photos were taken about 1 hour after the second coat was applied.

Up Next!

I can finally install the 1/4" mahogany decks. They have been fitted and have been flow coated twice with epoxy. They are sanded and ready to install. 

Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Drain Plugs

Now that the LineX bed-liner is sprayed on the bottom it's time to install drain plugs and wood inserts where I need to attached various parts to the bottom. The bottom is constructed with Plascore, a honeycomb plastic material. Screws will not attach to it. So essentially I have a 3/4" thick plastic bottom with Kevlar and fiberglass on both sides. I need to epoxy and glass in some epoxy sealed Okoume plywood discs to enable me to attach stuff.

I used 3 different sizes of hole saws mounted in a drill press to make the discs.

2 1/2" Diameter Discs. 

The first discs where 2 1/2" in diameter. These would be used for attaching pulleys for the anchor system. I will be inserting one in the transom and two under the front of the rower's seat. The ones under the rowers seat are placed butting up to one another.

Here are the two side by side holes under the rower's seat where a pulley will be attached. I used a 2 1/2" hole saw to cut through the top layer of Kevlar and fiberglass.

2' Diameter Discs

The 2nd set of discs were 2" diameter. These would be used to secure the foot brace brackets in front of the rower's seat. There will be 4 of them.

Here is a photo of a 2 inch diameter hole that has been drilled and then the plastic honeycomb removed 

The holes are bored with a 2' diameter hole saw just through the top layer and then the honeycomb core is removed by twisted the core out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

2' Diameter holes for the Drain Plugs

The drain plugs require 2 holes to be bored. I started off by drilling a 2" diameter hole through a piece of 1/2" thick Okoume plywood with a 2" hole saw. The holesaw has a 1/4" diameter pilot bit. Once drilled, I changed to a 1" diameter hole saw. I held the 2" disc in a clamp and used the 1/4" pilot hole to drill a 1" diameter hole inn the center.

The photo above shows the 2" diameter discs on the top row and the plug for the drain plug on the bottom. The brass drain plug is inserted into one of the discs.

Sealing and Installing the Discs

The discs were sealed with epoxy on all sides prior to installing them. They were then sanded with 120 grit prior to installing them. Once sanded I mixed up some epoxy peanut butter and epoxied the discs into their appropriate holes. The epoxy peanut butter was squeezed out of the holes as they were leveled. The epoxy was leveled and cleaned up and left to harden overnight. The next day I cut squares of fiberglass cloth and placed them over the plugs and flow coated them.

This photo shows the 4 - 2" diameter discs epoxied in place

Installing the Drain Plugs

Once the wooden discs had set up I had to drill through the LineX bottom. I used a 1" diameter steel bit. The bit scored the holes a bit so I recoated them with epoxy Once the epoxy had hardened the plugs were ready to be installed. The brass drain plugs were installed with 3M 5200 adhesive. The bottom flange and the outside surfaces of the drain plug were coated liberally. Once the plugs were inserted I used #8 x 5/8" brass screws to attach the brass drain plug to the wooden disc. I put 5200 adhesive in the screw holes.

This is a photo of the drain plug disc in the transom prior to drilling through the bottom. Note that the disc is about 3/16" below the surface of the bottom. This will flush out the drain plug flange.