The Snap T Cast - Spey Casting 101

The "Snap T Cast" is a two directional cast. One in which the fly will anchor on the upstream side of the caster. Therefore this cast provides a level of safety when you encounter an upstream wind. This will prevent you from wearing an "Intruder Fly" earring. This cast also is good when you encounter limited backcast room. This cast can be set up with a minimal "D-loop" behind the caster if necessary.

The "Snap T" cast was developed by Pacific Northwest anglers, George Cook, John Farrar and Dec Hogan. It is used as an alternate to a "River Left", "Single Spey" cast. This cast is quite east to master and is great for when learning to spey cast.

Here is a video of spey casting teacher extraordinaire, Bill Lowe.




The video is pretty good wouldn't you agree. Thanks Bill.


So back to the why, when and how, 

When to consider using the "Snap T" 

• Upstream Wind
• Limited Backcast Area
• Makes little disturbance on the water
• Minimizes line positioning and maximizes fishing time

Situations when to use a "Snap T" cast for a Right Handed Caster

• Single Spey From "River Left" with an upstream wind over your strong shoulder (Right Handed)


• Reverse Single Spey from "River Right with an upstream wind over your off-shoulder (Kackhanded)

Fundamentals of the Snap T Cast

• The principal of the Snap T cast is to bring the rod and line partially upstream, then imediately "snapping" the rod to the starting position in a ">" move. 

• The "snap" will flick the remaining line, leader and fly upstream. 

• After the fly lands upstream at the anchor point, the rod is swept around and upstream and circles up and into the forward cast.

Here's the steps involved with throwing a Snap T cast

1. While standing on the left bank, "River Left", Start with your normal hang down length, (hang down is the amount of line out of your rod tip when you start a cast), laid out straight at the end of the dangle. Face your shoulders in the direction of the forward cast and hold the rod tip low to the water surface with your right hand on top.
2. With the rod tip in a low position, sweep the rod from left to right on a slight incline eventually rising close to 30 degrees from the horizontal, or about at eye level.
3. The rod inclines on an incline sweep and rotates about 90 degrees from the start position, (basically pointing straight across stream). Without hesitating, the rod tip is redirected downstream and back towards the starting position (or back towards the downstream bank) with a "V" shaped "snap" This "snap" drives the remaining front portion of the line off the waters surface and to the anchor point slightly above the path of the forward delivery.
4. After the "snap" is made there is a slight pause as the line leader and fly position to the anchor point, about a rods length upstream and slightly forward of the caster.
5. As the fly anchors, the rod sweeps upstream low to the horizon until it crosses the path of the intended cast. In a continuous motion the rod drives back to drive the "D" loop or possible a "V" loop, 180 degrees from the target line. The rod circles up to form a "D" loop and then smoothly accelerates into the forward cast.

Get out and practice until you've got it right.

The Single Spey Cast - Spey Casting 101

The "Single Spey" is a two directional cast. One in which the fly will anchor on the upstream side of the caster. Therefore this cast provides a level of safety when you encounter an upstream wind. This will prevent you from wearing an "Intruder Fly" earring. This cast also is good when you encounter limited backcast room. This cast can be set up with a minimal "D-loop" behind the caster if necessary.

When to consider using the "Single Spey" 

• Upstream Wind
• Limited Backcast Area
• Makes little disturbance on the water
• Minimizes line positioning and maximizes fishing time

Situations when to use a Single Spey Cast for a Right Handed Caster

• Single Spey From "River Left" with an upstream wind over your strong shoulder (Right Handed)


• Reverse Single Spey from "River Right with an upstream wind over your off-shoulder (Kackhanded)

Fundamentals of the Single Spey Cast

• Start with a "Shotgun Lift". This is the most popular lift, it is easy to master and provides a smooth anchor placement.

• Start with the line straight on the dangle and extend the arms slightly with the rod tip at the waters surface.

• Begin lifting with the rod butt by raising both arms vertically until the top hand is at eye level. This is the top of the lift.

• Do the rise smoothly and with enough effort to raise about half of the working line.

• In a seamless manner, follow with a smooth shallow dish movement of the rod tip as the rod sweeps the line up river.

• In doing this the top hand lowers sightly, applying enough thrust to clear the remain line on the dangle.

• The slight downward dip will develop a strong thrust into the lift.

• The rod as it is sweeping through the shallow dish, dips downward slightly from the top of the shotgun lift position, then curves upward on an incline as it circles around to drive a "D" loop.

• The top hand drives back, rising to where the palm of the top hand is adjacent and level to the ear.

• The "D" loop forms and the top hand drives forward ending at the stop with the thumb of the top hand at eye level. 

• This results in a straight and smooth forward delivery.

Added Thoughts

• Pick a target line on the opposite bank slightly diagonally downstream.

• Use this line to establish the “D Loop” 180 degrees opposite from it.

• If your “D Loop lands downstream of this target line you will cross it and tangle on the “Forward Cast”.

• This is a “Touch and Go” cast which is an airborne anchor cast. As soon as the end of your fly line touches at your “D Loop” position, and you have reached the "Set Position", start and execute the forward cast.

• Make sure the line touches and does not stay airborne.

Summary

The "Single Spey" is one of the basic casts that you need in your arsenal of casts and you will find uses for it in many fishing situations. 

It is a great advantage to take a lesson and have a knowledgeable instructor help you master all the basic casts. Fly Fishings Traditions' classes or individual instruction could be your ticket to the spey world.

You can contact Clay at clayhash.fft@gmail.com to arrange for personal instruction.

The Double Spey Cast - Spey Casting 101

The "Double Spey" is a two directional cast. One in which the fly will anchor on the downstream side of the caster. Therefore this cast provides a level of safety when you encounter an downstream wind. This will prevent you from wearing an "Streamer" as an earring. This is one of the easier spey cast to master. It can be done at a very slow pace. With that said , the cast must maintain a tempo that progressively accelerates into the forward stop position. 

The ability to form the "Double Spey" at a slower pace makes this cast ideal for sink tips. It is just a good overall cast.

For a right handed caster the "Double Spey" is one of the primary "River Right" casts.

For a right handed caster the "Reverse Double Spey" can be utilized from "River Left" and is thrown over your left, off shoulder or "Cack-handed".

Here's a You Tube video of casting instructor extraordinaire, Bill Lowe, as to how to make a "Double Spey Cast". 




When and why to consider using the "Double Spey" 

• Downstream Wind - D for Downstream remember "Double Spey"
• When you are fishing "River Right"
• When using heavy sink tips 
• When using bulky flies
• Makes little disturbance on the water
• Minimizes line positioning and maximizes fishing time

Situations when to use a Double Spey Cast for a Right Handed Caster

• Double Spey From "River Right" with an downstream wind over your strong shoulder (Right Handed)


• Reverse Double Spey from "River Left" with an downstream wind over your off-shoulder (Kackhanded)

Fundamentals of the Double Spey Cast

The "Double Spey" is broken down into two phases which makes it a two-dimensional cast. The first portion is a line re-positioning move from the dangle straight downstream followed by a "Switch Cast" to cast the line in an across the river direction. 

How to perform the Double Spey Cast

• For a right handed caster the cast starts with the angler on "River Right".
• The line on the dangle directly downstream.
• Face your shoulders in the direction of the forward cast and to the target area.
• Start the cast with the rod tip at low to the waters surface With the right hand in the top position on the rod.
• The cast stars with a "lift and sweep" movement. This is a mild version of the "Shotgun Lift" as described in the "Single Spey". cast. The lift is done by raising the rod tip vertically from near the surface of the water to about chest high.
• As the rod rises to the top of the lift in a continuous motion, sweep the rod with a low rotating swing from downstream to upstream, driving the loop of line upstream.
• Use the rod but to drive the line positions to attain a smooth thrust.
• The beginning of the sweep is where the maximum effort or thrust is applied to lift the line from the water. The amount of effort and/or height of the lift may vary with the length and type of line being cast.
• The sweep is done with the rod held at a low angle with the tip about shoulder height, driving the belly of the line upstream.
• The task is to sweep the line upstream far enough so the fly anchors just below the path of the intended final forward "Switch Cast".
• The end of the fly line should be about one rod length downriver and slightly forward of the casters position.
• As the fly sets to the anchor point from the initial "lift an sweep" move, the rod is redirected in a smooth transition downstream, folding the line over itself.
• The rod returning downstream drives the line to the point where it crosses the path of the forward cast. In a smooth continuous motion the rod rotates to a new oath, in an inclining plane drawing back behind to 180 degrees from the direction of the forward cast and the target area.
• It is very important that the "D"loop is in straight alignment to the forward cast.
• The rod "Circles Up" forming an aerial oval which brings the rod to the "Key" position for the forward cast.
• From the "Key" position accelerate smoothly forward as the passes vertical and thrust a flick into the stop. 
• The loop forms and zips out well above the water, just as in "Switch Cast"

Summary

The "Double Spey" is one of the basic casts that you need in your arsenal of casts and you will find uses for it in many fishing situations. 

It is a great advantage to take a lesson and have a knowledgeable instructor help you master all the basic casts. Fly Fishings Traditions' classes or individual instruction could be your ticket to the spey world.

You can contact Clay at clayhash.fft@gmail.com to arrange for personal instruction.

The Switch Cast - Spey Casting 101

The “Switch Cast” is also referred to as the “Forward Spey Cast” is is like an energized Roll Cast.

Unlike the Roll Cast, the line never stops moving and is in constant tension. Like a Roll Cast, a "D" loop of line forms behind the rod tip, and the forward loop rolls out above the surface of the water.

This is a single directional cast which is also a non-change of direction cast just like the “Roll Cast”, but is much more dynamic. It may have limited use in actual fishing situations, but as an instructional cast it is very important. The "Switch Cast" is the essence of a Spey Cast. It has the basic elements of a cast.

• The Lift
• The Anchor
• The "D" loop
• And The Forward Cast.

After learning the "Switch Cast" the final delivery of any spey-type cast is mastered. Once you have mastered the "Switch Cast", when learning a new cast the line positioning moves can be the sole focus. All spey casts end with the elements of the "Switch Cast".

Here's a video showing both the "Switch Cast" and the "Single Spey Cast" from Tight Lines in NJ.

Anchor Types and Positioning

The Switch Cast positions or anchors the fly to the side of the caster to form an elongated "D" or "V" shaped back loop. The size, shape or depth of the back loop may change depending on;

•  Choice of the style of casting, Skagit, Traditional, or Underhand
• The type of cast you select to throw
• Situation, lots of room, moderate room or little room behind you to set up the cast.

The Switch cast is valuable to practice mastering the various "D" and "V" loop sizes and shapes. Practice them all.

The Fundamentals of the Switch Cast - Three Steps

The Lift and Sweep

• The “Switch Cast” starts with the rod pointed at the line on the water and then continues with a lift with thrust that smoothly and  progressively builds to the top of the lift which is to nose height or about to the 9:30 or 10:00 position.
• The thrust becomes stronger as the rod smoothly swings into the dip at the start of the sweep, think of a shallow dish.
• At the start of the lift, the rise of the rod and the dip that follows work together to enhance the strength of the lifting thrust.
• The rise of the rod followed by the dip work as opposing forces.
• The lift and dip must be smoothly coordinated and regulated so as not to disrupt the cast. 
• An efficient cast will minimize the height of the lift and flatten the dip into a streamlined movement.
• The dip or start of the sweep is directed and directs the momentum to the desired anchor point.
• During a spey cast it is critical not to misdirect the path of the dip. The path needs to be controlled. Smooth movements are best.
• Developing and regulating the amount of power or effort applied is very important.
• The correct applied power and tempo allows the "D" loop to be placed properly and in the desired position.

.

Placing the Anchor Point

• As a general rule the anchor point will be off to the side and slightly ahead of your position at about a rod's length away.
• Place the rod in your right hand (for right handers) and extend and point the rod ahead, then tilt the rod tip about six to eight feet to the side. This is the target for your anchor.
• The goal is to have the anchor point closely aligned with and parallel to the target line of the forward cast.
• When setting up the anchor placement if it is skewed or misaligned the line will not clear smooth;y and may cause many errors. 
• Work on getting the "Lift and Set" formed properly and you will then have better control of your anchor placement.

Developing a Proper "D" Loop

• The "D" Loop is an aerial loop of line that forms behind the rod tip.
• The "D" Loop, with the grip of the line anchored to the water surface is the resistance that loads the rod to propel the cast.
• It is desired to have an oval "D" Loop or a "V" loop that is energized and maintains constant tension.
• A "D" Loop forms with an incline sweep of the rod that drives the back loop well above the water and will help increase the dynamics of the cast.
• The "D" Loop should be positioned 180 degrees from the target
• When transitioning from the "lift and set" the rod drives and sweeps back and "Circles Up" to form the oval shaped "D" loop behind the rod tip.
• The "Circle Up" is an upward circular rotation of the rod to redirect the line to a new path to travel.
• The "Circle Up" motion is vital to keeping constant tension in the cast.
• The rod "Circles Up" to the "Key Position" where the rod accelerates smoothly forward towards the target

The Forward Cast

• From the "Key Position" the forward cast starts
• The lower driving hand pulls inwards towards the waist.
• The upper hand extends forward as the elbow lowers and bends open
• Stop the top hand at the 10:30 position
• Use the upper hand a the "pivot" to become the "fulcrum"
• This will "Flip the Tip" to allow the cast to fly to the target

Summary

The "Switch Cast" is the essential part of all spey casts. Practice until the power and tempo is correct. Get this right and the rest will come easier.

Spey and Switch Rod Casting Primer - Getting Started

When you first start to get ready to start spey casting you need to have some "Practice Casts" at your disposal. These are straight line casts.

To get you prepared  I'm putting together a series of articles to create a "Spey and Switch Rod Casting Primer". The Primer will cover the basic principals of spey casting and the execution of practice casts like the;

• "Roll Cast" and the 
• "Switch Cast". 

It will also cover the basic spey casts like the;

• "Single Spey"
• "Double Spey"
• "Perry Poke"
• "Snap T".
• "Snake Roll"
• "Circle Cast"

 I'll publish this primer on the Fly Fishing Traditions Blog as well as eventually on the Fly Fishing Traditions website.

This Part I will cover the Basics to get started with spey casting.

Starting Off

When you arrive at the river to practice there are some things you should do to prepare for your day.

• It’s a good idea to tape the joints of your switch or spey rod with electrical tape. Spey casting creates a lot of torque and twisting and if section of the rod comes almost undone it can break your rod.Set your rod section moderately tight and then tape them.

• You can use the same tape about 8 or 10 times. Simply unwrap from one piece and re-wrap in on the other until the next time you use it.

• Most of you fly fishers out there already know that hen threading your fly line through the guides, thread the end of the fly line or the fly line doubled up on itself instead of threading the leader. It's a lot easier than threading your tippet through the guides.

• When rigged up and walking through brush and weeds wrap the line a few times around the rod, face the rod behind you and walk through instead of having the rod facing forward. The rod will follow your path through.

• Remember for safety always wear a hat and glasses. Protect your head and your eyes.

Fundamentals – The Grip

Find the balance point of your rod with your top hand. Where the rod balances level is the approximate location of your top hand. Find the balance point and close your hand on the rod. This will be your top hand position. Grab the bottom of the rod with your other hand.

• The grip is important for casting efficiency and for comfort.

• Hold the rod loosely, not tightly.

• The top hand is your fulcrum point which makes the spey rod an effective lever.

• You can adjust the balance point by adding weight to your reel or using a larger or smaller one.

Fundamentals – The Stance

• Stand comfortably and safely in an athletic posture

• You want a stance that will help your cast.

• Think about casting as an athletic endeavor, like throwing a baseball, football or hitting a golf shot, there is balance and shift of balance.

• Casting is another athletic movement where you move from your ankles and your hips and lean into the forward cast.

• You want a stance that will allow body rotation and changing of weight and balance.

• For a right hand cast you want an open stance with the left foot forward. This will allow you to rotate through your hips to set up your backcast and the rotate forward for the delivery cast.

• An open stance allows you to lean into your cast.

• If you want to try standing with your right foot forward and your right hand high on the rod and your left hand low, you will find that the stance will block your ability to rotate and set up your back cast properly.

• If you were to cast from the back side, with you left hand high on the rod, and your right hand low, you would open up your stance with your right foot forward. The total opposite.

Basic Principles of Spey Casting

There are three basic principles that apply to all of the spey casts that you will employ. These first two principals are “Set Up” principals

The “D Loop

The first principal, which is a “Set Up” principal and probably the most important principal, is the loading of the rod. The “D Loop”. This is the curve behind the rod. This is the weight that loads the rod and makes the rod cast easily. The bigger the “D Loop” the more the rod loads and the easier the cast will go out.

"Line Stick"

The second principal, which is also a “Set Up” principal is equally important,. It is called “Line Stick”. “Line Stick” refers to the amount of line that is lying on the water as you start the forward cast. This is the critical point, the line is like tacky glue, the more line that is in contact with the water at the start of the cast, the more energy is lost when trying to rip the line off the surface film. If you have too much “Line Stick” your cast sort of dies and fails.

A good spey cast will have a little line on the water, just the tip of the fly line, with a small amount of “Line Stick” on the water. When you start your forward cast, it will come cleanly out of the water with little problem.

“180 Degree Principal”

The third principal the “180 Degree Principal” which makes a spey cast fire to your target properly. This principal is very simple, the forward cast is opposite of the back cast.

When you pick a target on the opposite bank for your forward cast, your back cast must be set up 180 degrees behind you, or opposite of the target.

To visualize this effect, string up the top section of your rod with yarn and pull back on it like a bow and arrow. When you let go, the yarn flies straight forward, 180 degrees, from the starting point, or opposite of the starting point.

To make your cast fire properly to your target you must get this right. Practice makes perfect.


Putting These Basic Principles to Use on the Water

The first principal we identified is the “D Loop”, which is the action that loads the rod for the forward cast.

Putting the "D Loop" to Use

• The smaller the “D Loop” the less the rod will flex against it and the more you’ll have to “whack it” or “muscle it”.

• If you have more room you want to set up or “throw” a bigger “D Loop”. This will give you more weight of line on the water to load the rod. This will load the rod more naturally, cleanly, efficiently and allow you to launch a forward cast with much less energy

• The “D Loop” is controlled by the amount of energy that you use to throw the cast behind you.

• A good analogy from Simon Gawesworth is throwing a Frisbee. If you were going to throw a Frisbee a short distance behind you, say 5 feet, you would use a short soft floater for your throw. If you use a short soft throw back with your rod setting up a “D Loop” you will have a small “D Loop”.

• If you were going to throw the Frisbee 20 feet behind you, you would use more of an effort to get it there. You must use more energy throwing your line behind you to form a larger “D Loop”

• The slower you come back to form a “D Loop” the smaller the “D Loop”.

• The faster you come back, the larger the “D Loop” will be. You need extra speed to create a larger more efficient “D Loop”.

• Ideally you would like a larger, more efficient “D Loop” but sometimes you are restricted on your back cast by tree, bushes or other obstacles. This is where you want to make a small “D Loop” Use a slower motion to set it up, a small toss backwards.

Practice both types of “D Loops”. Practice casting making small and large “D Loops”. You’ll need this in your bag of tricks when you are out on the stream.

Putting the Principal of "Line Stick" to Use

The second principal, “Line Stick”, “Grip” or the “Anchor Point” all refer to amount of fly line on the water prior to starting your forward cast, after you have formed your “D Loop”

Ideally you want to strive for minimal line stick. Let’s talk about why.

• A bad combination is a small “D Loop” and a lot of line stick. When you start your forward stroke you have to rip all the line “Sticking” on the water to make the forward cast.

• Half the energy of the cast is used just to rip the line off the water.

• The ideal cast is to form a large “D Loop” and only have the leader and maybe your nail knot in contact with the water.

• Strive for “Minimal Line Stick” - This generates the most power with minimal effort.

Putting the "180 Degree" Principal to Use

The third principal, the 180 Degree Principal, is the most difficult. Spey casting is about changing direction, then casting up and down the river. You need to add “Rotation” to your casting stroke.

• The 180 degree Principal is accomplished with “Body Rotation”.

• Most spey casts are started with the line below you and roughly parallel to the bank and you want to recast across the river or stream on a roughly perpendicular line.

• You cannot load the rod properly with an upstream “D Loop” when you are targeting across stream. This cast will fail. You have violated the 180 degree principal.

• When establishing the position of the “D Loop” you must rotate your hips and bring the “D Loop to the position “180 Degrees” or “Opposite” of your target.

• When practicing turn your head and see where your anchor point is set. Work on getting it “Opposite or “180 degrees” from your target.

Summary

When casting, and especially when practicing, remember these three principles, which are the basis of all spey casting.

(1) Form your “D Loop” correctly.

(2) Strive for minimal “Line Stick”

(3) Remember the “180 Degree Principal” and rotate your hips and body to set your “D Loop “Opposite” or “180 Degrees” from your target.

River Right? River Left? Right Shoulder? Left Shoulder?

When starting to learn how to spey cast, one of the most confusing and in the end most important things to understand, is to figure out what spey cast you should be using and why. The why is very important. It is necessary to recognize that your decision as to what cast to use is based upon and tied to;

(a) Which side of the river you are fishing from

(b) Which shoulder you are throwing the cast over

(c) Which way the wind is blowing

River Right  

River Right is the "Right" side of the river that you are standing in when looking in a downstream direction. So simply put, if you are standing in a river facing the center of the river and the water is flowing from your left to your right. You are on the right side of the river, "River Right". Pretty simple.

(1) Looking Downstream
(2) Standing of the right side
(3) "River Right"

River Left

River Left is the "Left" side of the river that you are standing in when looking in a downstream direction. So simply put, if you are standing in a river facing the center of the river and the water is flowing from your right to your left. You are on the left side of the river, "River Left".  Also pretty simple.

(1) Looking Downstream
(2) Standing of the Left side
(3) "River Left"

Right and Left Shouldered Casts

Wind direction plays into your decision as to which shoulder you wish to cast over. There is a "Spey-Speak" for this.

For a right handed caster your right shoulder would be your "Strong" shoulder. Your left shoulder would be referred to as your "Off" shoulder.

For a right handed caster a spey cast thrown over your "Right" shoulder can also be referred to as your "On-Hand" or "Strong Shoulder or "Natural Shoulder"

For a right handed caster, a spey cast thrown over your "Left" shoulder can be referred to as your "Off-Hand" or "Cack-Hand". A cast thrown over your off shoulder is referred to as "Cack-Handed". This is also often referred to as your "Reverse" side.

Believe me this will all make sense eventually.

Wind Direction

Wind direction plays into your decision as to which shoulder you wish to cast over. Why? You don't want to be wearing the fly you are throwing as an earring. This is what could happen.

• You are standing in the river and the wind is blowing hard upstream.
• You choose to throw a cast over your downstream shoulder.
• You circle up to make your cast and come to your set position and make your forward cast
• The wind blows your line and fly upstream as it unfurls.
• You now are wearing an "Intruder" earring.
• Ouch!

To avoid this you need to throw a cast over your upstream shoulder when you have an upstream wind. That way the wind is blowing the line and fly upstream and away from you when it unfurls.

Right Choice = Fly hopefully in fish's mouth

Wrong Choice = New Earring! and "Ouch"!

In the next Spey Blog Post I  will explain the various spey casts and when to use them when considering; 

(1) Which side of the river you are standing on and 

(2) Which way the wind is blowing.

It all matters and it all makes sense when you put it all together.

Stop and Block Spey Technique

When we are in the process of perfecting the modern spey casting stoke, we often find ourselves using our top hand way too much. Especially when first getting started. This can be attributed to the many years of single handed casting where the technique is all with our dominant hand. The dominant hand is now our top hand when spey casting. It wants to cast.

How you utilize your top and bottom hand to create an efficient lever is a hard thing to grasp. Andrew Toft has shot a video which explains his "Stop and Block" technique. It is the "Fulcrum Principle" where the top hand is the pivot and "stop" mechanism and the bottom hand pulls back and provides a" block". This combination and sequence is what makes a spey line fly. Little top hand movement but a very specific top hand stop sequence to stop the rod to release the tip.




It's the old "Monty Python" thing  where the "Trebuchet" throws the cow over the wall. If the fulcrum point was moving the lever fails and the cow throwers gets the cow dung all over them. Cow and other assorted barnyard animals get thrown over wall. No fulcrum, no Cow!

 

List of Basic Spey Casts

When considering which of many spey casts to utilize there are some basic things to take note of:

• Which side of the river you are casting from, "River Right" or "River Left"
• Which way is the wind blowing

Here is a list of the basic Spey Casts and when they should be considered and utilized;

This list of casts is for a "Right Handed" caster. Everything would be just the opposite if you are a "Left Handed" caster.

Skagit Casting - Defined and Simplified with Scott Howell

This excellent video by Scott Howell demonstrates the Skagit Casting Method. He also explains the difference between "Modern Spey Casting" and "Skagit Casting".

I have posted different videos showing different styles of spey casting so that it may be easier to understand their differences. Take your time and watch this video a number of times. Spool up a running line, a Skagit head, and a tip, take it out to the river or the lawn and give it a try. It may change your perspective a bit. It may also become one of your favorite methods.

Scott Howell is the focus of the DVD "Skagit Master II" This is a must see for any steelhead fisherman. I great look at a master in action.

  )

Spey Casting Glossary of Terms

When getting on board with Spey Casting there is a new vocabulary that constantly has you asking "What the heck are they talking about". 

You can read and study this glossary to better understand the jargon for the principles of spey casting. 

180  Degree Rule - The fly, the leader, the "D" loop and the casting plane are in alignment at 180 degrees of the forward cast and the target.

Anchor - The fly, the leader and the front tip of the line being secured on the water surface, provides the tension or resistance needed to form the "D" loop and provide loading for the forward cast.

Anchor Point - The location point of the anchor. As a general rule, this location is slightly forward and a rod's length to the side the cast is being formed.

Casting Arc - The angle of the rod butt in relationship to the start and finish of the stroke.

Casting Stroke - The length the rod butt travels from the start of the straight-line path to the stop.

Center River - A directional term that refers to a point mid river, adjacent to the caster's position

Circle Cast - A two directional cast the positions the fly to the upstream side of the caster and utilizes an oval to reposition the line, Used for an upstream wind.

"Circle Up" - The "circle-up assists in forming the back loop and transits the rod into the "Key" position for the forward cast. The rod drives back opposite to the forward stroke, curves upward to the start formation of either the "D" loop or the "V" loop shape, arriving at the "Key" position.

Constant Tension Method - A curved path movement that loads the rod through continuous motion during the movements of the cast all the way through to the stop. An example is the "Skagit Casting" method.

Creep - Creep is bad. The movement of the rod not under pressure. This commonly happens at the start of the forward stroke reducing the length of the rod-loading move.

Crescent Lift - A lifting move that uses a curving rise of the rod.

Crossed-tail Loop - A casting fault. A forward loop where the upper leg collides sideways into the lower leg. This is a result of misaligned anchor point that is not aligned to the path of the forward past. No 180 degree rule applied.

Forward Cast - The forward stroke from the "Key" Position through the final forward delivery.

"D" Loop - A rounded back loop of line that forms behind the rod tip with the aid of the anchor and is the load for the forward cast.

Dangle - The point at which the fly or is at the end or completion of the swing. Also the amount of line, tip leader etc. that remains outside of the tip top of the rod prior to commencing a spey cast.

Double Spey Cast - A two directional cast the positions the fly to the downstream side of the caster; used for a downstream wind.

Downstream Wind - The wind in a downstream direction, traveling in the same direction as the river current.

Drift - The intentional movement of the rod in the sane direction that the line is traveling after the stop. This rod re-positioning increases the length of the casting stroke following the cast.

Excessive Lift - A casting fault. A lift motion that is too great resulting in an anchor placement too far from the caster's position.

Grass Leader - A leader that consists of a series of blood knots that will be entrapped in the grass barbules, forming the grip for Spey Casting on the grass. The blood knots are tied about 3 - 5 inches apart. The tag ends are clipped about 3/8" to 1/2' long. The leader is approximately 10'- 12' long.

Grip - To hold and provide resistance from the anchor placement on the water surface.

Head - The body section of a line including the front taper, the belly and the back or rear taper.

Insufficient Lift - A casting fault. A lift motion that fails to lift the fly clear of the water surface and set to the desired anchor point.

"Key" Position - The rod position at which the forward stroke or the forward straight line cast begins.

Left Bank or River Left - The left side of the river when facing downstream.

Level line drop - A casting fault. The line setting down at the anchor point falls parallel or flat to the water surface. The entire line contacts the water and creates too much line stick or excessive drag.

Lift - A vertical rod movement the re-positions the line.

Line Drag - A casting fault - A level dragging motion of the rod that provides no lift of the line nor an energized loop.

Line Stick - The resistance from the amount of line nested on the water surface during the forward stroke.

Loading move - The bending of the rod under power.

Overhead Cast - A straight-line cast that has an aerial back loop and front loop. It is a basic, simple and efficient cast.

Piled Anchor - A casting fault. The line piling into the anchor point due to the belly of the line contacting the water surface prior to the leader.

Perry Poke Cast - A line position move that is added during the formation of the cast. This move can be adapted to any cast to enhance the cast performance.

Pushing over the top - A casting fault. An excessive use of the top had that disrupts the shared work between the upper and lower hands. A rotation of the top wrist will often appear. This is a circular push of the top hand that kicks the rod tip downward at the end of the stroke, resulting in a loss of power, rounded forward loops and a slight tail at the end of the cast.

Right Bank or River Right - The right side of the river bank when facing downstream.

Rolling the Shoulder - A casting fault. A circular rotation of the shoulder during the casting stroke that results in a loss of power and inefficient round forward loops.

Rhythm - The pace and speed of a single movement or line-positioning move during the cast.

Shooting Line - A small diameter running line that is attached behind the body of a shooting head. For example - Rip Slickshooter or Airflo Ridge, or Airflo Miracle Braid.

Shotgun Lift - A vertical lift that provides a smooth lineal lift.

Single Spey Cast - A two directional cast that positions the fly to the upstream side of the caster; used for an upstream wind.

Skagit Casting - A sustained anchor style of casting, which uses a continuous motion throughout the sweep, turn up to the "key" position and then the forward stroke. This is often referred to as the "Ed Ward" style.

Snake Roll Cast -    A two directional cast that positions the fly to the downstream side of the caster; used for an downstream wind.

Snap "T" Cast - A two directional cast that positions the fly to the upstream side of the caster; used for an upstream wind.

Snap "Z" Cast -  A two directional cast that positions the fly to the upstream side of the caster; used for an upstream wind.

Soft "D" - A casting fault - An undersized back loop and/or one that lacks the energy for the length of line given.

Spiral Cast - A two directional cast that positions the fly to the upstream or downstream side of the caster. The rotation of the lifting oval may be rotated in either direction to adjust for wind.

Stance - The position of the caster in relation to how the feet are positioned

"Stop" - The movement of the rod butt momentarily stops forcing the rod tip to turnover, transferring the energy of the bent rod to the line, forming the forward loop.

Straight -line method - The movement of the rod that tracks a straight path, directs a straight momentum and ends with the rod unloading.

Straight-line path - A course the rod tip tracks during the stroke that is in alignment on a common plane from the "Key" position to the target.

Switch Cast - A single directional cast that has a dynamic "D" back loop and a forward loop that rolls out above the water surface.

Tailing loop - A casting fault. When the rod tip drops below and ends above the straight-line path, the upper leg collides with the lower leg of the unrolling loop. the rod tip tracks a concave path during the stroke.

Tempo - The pace of the overall cast, from start to finish.

Timing - The length of time each movement requires, arranged within the scope of the entire cast.

Tracking - A casting fault. The dropping of the rod tip low behind the caster when forming the back loop. This results in the "D" loop dropping too low behind the caster and contacting the water surface, causing excessive line stick.

Upstream Wind - The wind traveling in an upstream direction, opposite to the direction of the current flow.

Underhand Cast - A casting technique developed by Goran Anderson. This cast is best accomplished with shooting head from 24 to 46 feet. It relies on a string pull of the bottom hand.

"V" Loop - a wedge shaped "V" back loop of line formed behind the rod tip that, with the aid of the anchor, is the load for the forward cast. The most efficient back loop.

Working line - The line that extends beyond the rod tip during the formation of the cast.

This Glossary of Terms came from studying the book Two Handed Fly Casting - Spey Casting Techniques, by "Al Buhr"

Use of the Bottom Hand and the Underhand Spey Casting Technique

This is a video clip of Goran Anderson showing us the "Underhand Cast". The cast uses almost entirely the bottom hand. The top hand has very little drift. It is one on the distinct styles of spey casting. This is good to practice using a long belly line like an Airflo Delta or a Rio Short Head Spey line.

With this and most of the different styles of casting you need to train yourself to eliminate a dominant top hand. Single handed casters rely on the dominant hand to orchestrate a cast. When starting two handed casting we are ingrained to use our dominate hand, for a right handed caster this would be the right hand. Using the top hand for power is BAD! We have used our right hand for most of our fishing career and it's hard to stop using it. The upper hand, needs to be the fulcrum, or the pivot. The lower hand is in the drivers seat. The pull with lower hand also pulls against the load created by the back loop and the line anchored to the waters surface. Loading the rod in this manner is technically a Class 1 lever, the strongest. The top hand job is to stop the rod which will "Flip the Tip" and off the cast will fly. Figure how to apply this power correctly and you are on your way.


  

Dec Hogan II Spey Rods

I fish with and recommend Echo Fly Rods. I like their action and ease of casting especially using the "Ed Ward" Skagit style of casing using Skagit Short heads or when using Dec's style with medium and longer bellied lines like an Airflo Delta.

Echo has come out with Echo's new line of Dec Hogan II Spey Rods. These are great working rods with a price that won't break the bank. Here's a video of Dec Hogan discussing the development and attributes of the new Echo II Rods. The Dec Hogan II Spey Rods have also developed a rod with a 6.5 line designation, which puts it right between a 6 and a 7 weight.



Also as a bonus watch Dec's casting style which I believe people should experience and see if it works for you.

His casting style does not have a lot of wasted motion and is pretty darn effective. Its easy going and gets the job done. His casting technique is a combination of old and new styles adapted to maximize the performance of today's modern spey rods and progressive tapered fly lines. It is a sensible style that experienced Spey fishers seem to eventually evolve to.


Here's the details of the Dec Hogan II Spey Rods from Rajeff Sports

Your first thought might be Why? But rest assured, the soul of the original medium-fast action DH series was not lost. The advancements in casting techniques and modern fly lines just inspired us to update and redesign this popular lineup. Dubbed the DH II, they provide a slightly crisper action, enhanced tip recovery, wider grain window, and a scary-wicked color scheme. More distance with ease sums up our whole thought process with the DH II series. Bonus: Only since the evolution of modern spey lines has it been possible to build a true tweener rod, thus the 6.5 line designation. The gap between 6- and 7-weight two-handed rods has always left anglers searching for either a bigger six or smaller seven. Search no more, the 6.5 will definitely become the lower 48 meat-and-potatoes Summer Steelhead stick.

DEC HOGAN II Rods feature:

• Four-piece travel design
• Premium grade cork with composite accents at each end
• Carbon fiber reel seat with anodized aluminum components
• Night smoke gloss blank
• Dark gray wraps with metallic trim
• Black ceramic stripper guides
• Black snake guides and tip top
• Dark gray cordura covered rod tube and cloth rod bag
• ECHO lifetime warranty

Spey Fishing in Northern California - What's the Deal?

For those of us who live and fish in the Central Valley or in Northern California, what's the big deal with Spey Rods?

Well, for one thing we have steelhead in our systems. Steelhead often mean swinging flies, either steelhead softhackles, traditional steelhead patterns, streamers and such. They best way to do so is with a spey rod. A new buzz is "Trout Spey", using smaller and lighter spey rods when fishing for trout. I do it and it's fun. It may not be the most effective method, but the pull of a fish when it takes a fly on the swing sure beats staring at an indicator all day long. I find myself drawn to swinging flies. If you like to swing soft hackles, you'd like to learn how to fish with a Spey Rod.

A spey rod is meant for swinging flies in the downstream quadrant. Across, across and down, quartering down. It allows an angler to easily boom out long casts with moderate effort. The only problem is that to do so you find yourself entering in a different fly fishing world. A world of new lines, shooting heads, weighted tips, different flies and probably the biggest a new challenge to learn how to cast the darn things.

Its a new vocabulary to learn and understand.

An Airflo Spedicator Integrated Line

• Skagit Heads
• Scandi Heads
• Polyleaders
• Versileaders
• Running lines
• MOW tips
• Hang Down
• Switch Rod
• River Right
• River Left
• T-8, T-11, T-14
• Cheaters

Then there's the actual casts;

• Double Spey
• Single Spey
• Snap T
• Snap Z
• Circle Cast
• Snake Roll
• Perry Poke

April Vokey

There's different Styles of Spey Casting. They all have a place and they have applications for different sizes or lengths of rods and the different fishing conditions you may find yourself facing. Big, Broad, wide rivers with lots of room to backcast, tight slotted rivers with brush at your back, you need different tools and techniques in your tool box.

Double Spey Skagit Style

• Underhand
• Modern
• Skagit
• Traditional

Ready to run away yet? Spey Fishing is indeed a new world, but it is fun and very rewarding once you commit to the journey. There is something about the pace of working your way down a run, casting repeatedly and teasing your flies across the current. Is there anyone home? It's strangely meditative. Although the best fly fishers are constantly changing the way there flies work the current, slower, faster deeper. You need to be mindful of where your flies are working, not just mindlessly repeating the same cast and presentation all day long. It's a contemplative game. It's a challenge and I believe it is worth the time and effort spent.

I'll explore these topics in future posts and introduce you into this new and fascinating world of Spey Fishing. Stay tuned.

Why Do I Use A Switch Rod?

There a people out there that might ask, "Why the heck would I want to buy a switch rod"? That's a good question. 

I'm going to answer this question from the perspective of fishing my home river, the Lower Yuba. I personally use a switch rod a lot. I use either a 5 weight, 10'9" switch rod or a 6 weight, 11'0" rod a lot. For this discussion the make and model doesn't really matter.

Why are these shorter two handed rods called  "Switch Rods"? The term switch rod comes from the idea that the rod can be cast either one handed or you can "switch" to two hands. From my experience which is with 5 and 6 weight switch rods they can be cast with one hand but if you were to do so all day long you could have wrist and forearm troubles. They really are meant to be cast with two handed techniques. It sort of goes like, pick it up and roll cast it out with one hand to change direction and position the line and then "switch" to two hands to make the final presentation cast. This is my normal routine anyway. My presentation cast is almost always two handed.

Answer Part 1 - A Switch Rod is a Multi-Purpose Tool.

The Lower Yuba is the type of river that you can use many tactics and techniques on the same day in different parts of the river.

• You may be going deep with indicator and shot
• You may be decide to use tight line nymphing methods.
• You may high stick using either of the above methods
• You may swing streamers and steelhead type soft hackles
• You may match the hatch using dries, emergers or nymphs
• You may dredge the slots and deeper holes.
• You may swing smaller trouty soft hackles.
• You may fish egg patterns or Troutbeads behind the salmon 
• Out of a boat you may pound the banks with hopper patterns

You can do all of these things with a switch rod. Can you do them with a single handed rod, Yes of course. But you can choose to do them with a switch rod and in a lot of cases casting further and easier. With the longer length you can manage your drift and mend at a longer distance.

Answer Part 2 - The Switch Rod can become a Fishing System.

You can look at a Switch Rod as a "Fishing System". What do I mean by that? Well, you can rig your rod to use many techniques and utilize many tactics if you organize your "system" properly.

How do I create a "Switch Rod System"? 

Switch Rod and Reel - You start by buying your switch rod and select a reel that balances with it correctly. That means that the reel needs to hold enough backing, 125 -150 yds, plus your fly line. We'll get to more of this in a minute. As a general rule the reel for a switch rod should be about 2 line sizes over a single handed rod. For an example for a 5 weight switch rod you would match it with a 7-8 sized single handed reel.

Two Spools - You want to purchase at least one extra spool to match your reel. Why? Your system will be comprised of two line systems. One spool will have an integrated full length line and the other will have a running line. 

Spool #1 - With an Integrated Floating Line - 

Your first spool will have; 

(A) 125-150 yards of backing

(B) An integrated line of choice. Sound pretty familiar? Pretty much the same as a single handed rod. The difference is that the line of choice will have more grain weight that the one you would use for a single handed rod. For instance if you were to use an line that is sized for a single handed rod like the Rio Indicator Line you would over- line the rod by 2 to 3 line weights, more grain weight. Not to try to be confusing, but some lines like any of the "Switch" lines are sized to size of your rod. For example a 6 weight switch rod would match up with a 6 weight Rio Switch Line.

Some of the lines available for a switch rod are; 

• Rio Switch Line
• Rio Switch Chuckar
• Rio Outbound Short
• Airflo Speydicator
• Airflo Delta Spey

I'm not going to go into a lot of detail in this article as to the differences in these lines, that will come another day.

(C) Optional Rigging - Add a Light MOW Tip for running your flies right on the bottom when tight lining or swinging (See Discussion on MOW Tips below)

(D) A leader

• A Versileader or Ployleader - The Rio "Versileaders" or the Airflo "Polyleaders" are specialty leaders that have sink rates from floating to 7 inches per second (ips,) . These are leader systems that vary in composition from 6 to 15 feet. The construction of these leaders involves using a level core of mono filament and then applying a supple taper coating in a wide variety of densities. These light tips help eliminate the hinge effect when transferring energy from the fly line to the leader.
• Light MOW tips
• A tapered Leader
• A straight piece of monofilament or fluorocarbon

Summary - The main thing to understand is that on this spool you will select an integrated line that is approximately 100 to 120 feet long. The line of choice will be used for, overhead casting situations similar to fishing with a single handed rod, Where you need a delicate delivery for soft hackles or dry flies, where you need the ability to mend and control the drift of the flies, where you want to use conventional tight lining nymphing tactics and want the tip to get down in lower flows (Verileaders or Polyeaders), or where you want to indicator nymph. You will use your line of choice a lot during almost any time of the year.

Note: I have a 3rd extra spool which I load with a line like the Airflo Speydicator or the Rio Switch Chuckar for using with big Thingamabobbers when going deep and when fishing with Troutbeads or generally any time I'm throwing a lot of shot. 

Spool #2 - With a Running Line, Shooting Head of Choice and a Tip

What the heck is a running line any way? A running line is a line that is attached to the backing, it is approximately 100 feet long, it is approximately .037" to .040" in diameter for its whole length ( a thinner diameter level line). It typically has a loop on the end that is used to attach "Shooting Heads". 

You need to choose the length, profile and grain weight of the shooting head carefully as it must "balance" with your switch rod. The Shooting Heads are a vital part of the "Fishing System". This system is mainly to be utilized for swinging below the surface, anywhere from a foot to the bottom. It will be used exclusively for downstream and across presentations.

So the Spool #2 is rigged something like this,

(A) Backing - 125-150 yards of backing

(B) Running Line - A level running line like a;

• Rio Powerflex
• Rio Slickshooter
• Rio Gripshooter
• Airflo Ridge Running Line). 

All good running lines, all just a little different. 

(C) Shooting Head - A Shooting Head, (Oh, Oh, this is where it gets interesting)

Shooting Heads - One thing that must be explained is that the grain weight of the shooting head you select must balance with the rod. This can be determined by charts provided by the manufacturer of the rod or typically on their website. Shooting heads are sold based on their "grain weight" not rod size. For instance my 6 weight Switch Rod balances nicely with a 390 grain Skagit Shooting Head. It will perform well within a range of grain weights. In my case somewhere between about 360 grain to 420 grain.

Being vary general, the Skagit and Scandi heads are used in different water conditions and with different sizes of flies.

• Matra: Skagit Shooting Heads - "Winter, Big Water & Big Flies"
• Matra: Scandi Shooting Heads -"Spring and Summer, Smaller Water, Smaller flies"

Shooting Head Options

Skagit Shooting Heads

• Airflo Skagit Compact Heads - 23' to 27' long for throwing big flies and heavier sink tips
• Rio Skagit Max - About 23' in length - they perform similar to the Airflo Skagit Compact Heads

Scandi Shooting Heads

• Airflo Scandi Compact Heads - 28' to 34' long for throwing medium to smaller flies and lighter sink tips
• Rio Scandi - 28' to 40' the perform similar to the Airflo Scandi Compacts.

Specialty Shooting Heads

• Airflo Rage - 27' to 32' long. This line fishes like a Skagit Compact but is designed to fish as a straight floater. Great for windy conditions where you need to drive your cast into and through the wind. Similar use to the Skagit Compact
• Airflo Skagit Switch - 18' to 20' long - This shooting head was designed for switch rods. These lines were designed for the fast action switch rods and they load fast and easily.

With that said I'd recommend carrying a Skagit Head and a Scandi head. The choice is sort of up to you. Staying basic you can't really go wrong with the Compact Skagit and Scandi Heads to get started.

(D) Tips - 

Tips for Skagit Heads - When using any of the Skagit Heads you will be using a "Tip". Some of the options for tips when using Skagit Shooting heads are; 

• Solid lengths of tungsten. These can be can be purchased or made yourself using lengths of T-8, T-11, and T-14 line. Note:  A one foot length of T-11 weighs 11 grains. One foot of T-14 weighs 14 grains.
• MOW tips - MOW tips are sold by RIO. They are basically 10 feet long and they combine different lenghts of floating and sinking sections to allow for more consistent fishing and casting performance while fishing sinking sections of various lengths. The come in Light (T-8), Medium (T-11) and Heavy (T-14). Personally I love them. 
• As a general note, the smaller the rod weight the lighter the tips are to match it.

Tips for Scandi Heads - When Using Scandi Heads you will sometimes be using:

•  A "Tip", like the Rio "Versileaders" or the Airflo "Polyleaders" and sink rates from floating to 7 inches per second (ips,) . These are leader systems that vary in composition from 6 to 15 feet. The construction of these leaders involves using a level core of mono filament and then applying a supple taper coating in a wide variety of densities. These light tips help eliminate the hinge effect when transferring energy from the fly line to the leader.

(E) Leaders

• Tapered Leaders
• Level sections of monofilament or fluorocarbon.

Summary 

You will be using your running line and heads when you are fishing the downstream quadrant. This system can be teamed up with nymphs, trouty soft hackles egg patterns, streamers,conventional steelhead patterns, soft hackled steelhead patterns, leeches, and so forth. Great for doing the "Swing Thing".

The System

This "Switch Rod System" gives you the options to employ lots of tactics and cover lots of different water types. Do they work as well as a single handed rod for casting delicate dries and nymph? No! Do they cast as well as a two handed spey rod? No! They just do a little bit of everything pretty darn well. For a river like the Lower Yuba that comes in pretty handy.

Is the Entry Into the Spey World Confusing?

When you first open the door to fishing with a two handed rod it opens into a very broad and for most people a confusing world. I attended a switch rod clinic a number of years ago and the first thing that happened was the instructor opening up a small suitcase type of thing and dumped a pile of lines, heads, tips, etc. onto a table. I said to myself, "I'm not ready for this!". Running Lines, Integrated Lines, Skagit Heads, Scandi heads, Versileaders, T-8, T-11, T-14, Customized heads, my head was swimming immediately. What the heck is a Skagit Head? The instructor just said "forgetaboutit". Unfortunately you can't just put your head in the sand. You have to figure this stuff out, you have to learn how the stuff matches up. What lines match up with which rod? Grain weights? What's this about?

I'm going to attempt to demystify some of this world through a number of posts which will cover:

• Switch Rods
• Spey Rods
• Reels to match the rods
• Running Lines
• Integrated lines
• Shooting Heads, Skagit and Scandi and variations of each
• Tungston heads
• Versileaders
• MOW tips
• Leaders
• Flies

Unfortunately this is just all the gear! What to do with it is another story. How do you cast the darn things? Who do we listen to? There are different styles of casting that tend to match your line configuration, type and size of water you are fishing, the size of flies.

There are styles of casting two handed rods. The expression being tossed around these days is "Modern Speycasting". These are classified as;

• Modern Speycasting - This style utilizes shorter head lines, using a more compact style using both hands or with a dominant bottom hand. This is the style is best described as the style employed by Simon Gawesworth. Simon tends to use medium to long integrated lines, with fast, flat rod movements with positive stops to develop and maintain a "V-Loop", (and elongated D'Loop), with a long casting stroke with upper arm extension. His technique develops line speed by using his upper and lower hand equally, 50/50. This style is a good choice for rivers that have open areas for an enlongated "D-loop". With that said it can be used with variations on most any river.

• Skagit Speycasting - This style can be described as using short shooting heads that are cast with effortless power by utilizing a sustained anchor This is often referred to as the "Ed Ward" style which uses a "Continuous Loading" throughout the cast, Similar to a "Belgian Cast" when single hand casting. The stroke never stops from pickup, swing or sweep, turn up, forward stroke. The rule of thumb for this style is that the hang-down (line out of the tip) should be where the line belly plus the tip (cheater, weighted head, or MOW tip etc) is in the range of 3 to 3 1/2 times the length of the rod. Another characteristic of the Skagit Casting is that the D-loop is form off the shoulder and does not conform to the 180 degree rule. It's  more of a 120 degree rule. (My interpretation). This style is a great for streams that have close cover and obstructions directly behind you, willows, brush and trees.

• Underhand Style - This style can be used with integrated lines and with shooting heads and features the a dominant bottom hand. This casting style uses the 180 degree rule to place the D-Loop, and at the forward stop features a dominant pull with the bottom hand leading immediately afterwards to a stop of the rod. We're talking a hit the brick wall stop which results in a release of the rod tip to the target.

Three styles, all of which have their place. It's good to learn them all. Try them all and see which works for you.

Ready to give up? Hang in there and we'll slowly work our way through it.

I'll start with Switch and Spey rods in the first post in this series. Stay tuned and we all may learn together and in the end become accomplished spey fishers.

Clay

Switch Rods and MOW tips

Here's my friend Peter Burnes who caught this chunky rainbow on the Lower Yuba yesterday. He was using a switch rod and a MOW tip. I've often found myself choosing my 6 weight switch rod out of my arsenal of rods this fall. I'll attempt to explain why.

This has been a very good year for salmon on the Lower Yuba. By latest counts we're about at the 11,000 fish level. Of course this is nowhere near historical numbers but almost twice as many as last year. There are still small pods coming up river so this number will end up higher still. This has meant the fishing for resident rainbows and an occasional steelhead around where the salmon have been spawning has been pretty darn good. One of the characteristics of the type of structure that we have been concentrating on is water that is under 3 to 4 feet deep or areas where the depth drop-offs. Some of that water consists of buckets and rollers where salmon are spawning or have recently spawned.

When fishing these areas there are two problems.

(1) You don't want to wade out and tromp on, over or through the salmon redds and

(2) you don't want to snag salmon as you are fishing your egg patterns among them.

This is where the switch rod really pays off. You can station yourself on the edges in no water or shallow water where it is obvious that the salmon haven't been spawning and use spey casting techniques or just roll cast to your targeted areas. You can in most cases easily reach reach the area. Must easier that a single handed rod. Trust me on this. Sure you need to learn a few basic spey casts, but it opens new doors.

Lining the Rod - I've lined my switch rod with an Airflo Speydicator line which is an integrated line. This line casts like a dream and can easily handle weighted tips and mini tips and heads. I've been using a Rio MOW tip, "Light" weight, which is 10 feet long and has 5 feet of floating and 5 feet of T-8. This setup is perfect for fishing the areas talked about above, through and below the salmon stationed on on near the redds.

Why???- Less or No Snaging - The thing I've noticed is that I like to break my drifts into short 10 to 15 foot drifts, concentrating on the water that is just slightly up stream from where I'm positioned to just slightly downstream. I try not to let my flies swing downstream and through salmon stationed below me. This is where it is most likely to snag salmon. One of the benefits of using the MOW tip is it will get your flies right on the bottom and they will pass under salmon rather than over their backs. This greatly avoids snagging.

How To Rigg - It is important to rigg properly though. So lets go through how I rigg up.

(1) Line - The line I use is a Airflo Seydicator line. They are matched to your rod size. If you are fishing a 6 weight switch rod you match it with a 6 weight Speydicator. Simple.

(2) Mow Tip - I then select a Rio MOW tip. The tip selection depends on the depth and speed of the current you are fishing. I've found that on the Lower Yuba the "Light" Series, 5 foot float and 5 foot T-8 sink is just about right. How do you tell? The tip needs to touch once in a while, you will feel it. You need to experiment and come up with the right combination. I carry the Rio Mow tips in the "Light" series (a) 7 1/2 foot  float w/ 2 1/2 foot T-8 (b) 5 foot float and 5 foot T-8 and (c) 2 1/2 foot float and 7 1/2 foot T-8. This is really all you need.

(3) Build Your Leader

Step One. I build a short leader of  OX mono,  1x mono, 2x mono, to total about 3 to 4 feet. (Note: This also a good place to use old leaders that have been cut back.)

Step Two - I then add an 18" piece of 3x fluorcarbon.

Step Three - I rigg a Troutbead to this piece of 3x Fluorocarbon, keeping the Troutbead within 1/2" of the hook. This Troutbead wants to be about 14" to 16" behind the knot above.

Step Four - I add another piece of  tippet, 4x Fluorocarbon and add a nymph of choice. Typically a Pheasant Tail type or a Baetis nymph. This should be about 18" below the Troutbead. This is attached to the egg hook with a Clinch Knot.

Step Five- Add split shot above the Troutbead above the Surgeons knot. Use just enogh to get your flies down and rolling along the bottom but not hanging up. Experiment.

Summary

Beg, borrow or steal a switch rod and MOW Tips and give this a try. It may open your eyes.

The Perry Poke Positioning Cast

As you advance with spey casting you will continue to spent time "Warming Up" using the roll cast with it's waterborne anchor or the "Switch Cast" with an airborne anchor. Both of these casts end with the "Forward Stroke" which needs to be grooved as it is part of every spey cast. An exception to this is the "Perry Poke" cast. It is a re-positioning cast and does not have a forward stroke, unless you call dumping the line a forward stroke. You'll see what I mean as you continue to the "How To".

The Perry Poke was named after Karl Perry who popularized this cast. The “Perry Poke” is a re-positioning cast that allows you to re-position your line to use some of the straight line casts like the “Roll Cast” and the “Switch Cast.” You can also use it with a "Single Spey" cast.

The “Perry Poke” is an upstream shoulder cast. For a right handed caster this would be from river left. The river would be flowing from the right to the left with the bank behind you. The “D Loop” will be placed on the upstream side. This cast is best utilized with an upstream wind or no wind. The “Perry Poke” is a Sustained Anchor Cast.

As with most casts you can use this cast from opposite side of the river,river right, with a "Kackhanded Cast" which for a right handed caster is with the right hand at the top of the grip and the "D Loop" set over the left, upstream shoulder.

The cast works well with short “Skagit Heads” of about 27 feet in length or with "Scandi Heads".

First Stage. The first stage of the “Perry Poke” is the hang-down.

(1) Make sure you have a nice taught connection.
(2) Strip your running line back in to the belly or the head before Step Two, the pickup.
(3) Set your feet in the direction that you want to target your cast.
(4) Turn your hips and shoulders to face the line at the hang-down.
(5) Gather line and drop the rod tip down.

Second Stage - Step two is the pickup.

(1) This step is where you pick up the line to place it in the secondary position. The important movement is the lifting of the rod vertically up and not swinging. They line travels quite close to the body. It is a nice smooth operation.
(2) Raise the rod tip to the vertical position and over your upstream shoulder.
(3) The line should place the anchor point right in front of you, slightly downstream from your position.

Third Stage - Step three is the throw down for the “Set”. It is a relaxed dropping of the line. You want the line to drop in a crumpled pile. It looks messy but the line on the water will give the power for the forward cast.
The crumpled pile should be under your rod tip.
Note: a common mistake is to push the throw down out and away from your position.

Stage Four - Step Four is the sweep combined with the “Forward Casting Stroke”.

The important part of the sweep is to take the rod path upstream and outside of where the line is laying.

(1) The sweep brings the rod tip around and upstream in a slightly inclining plane to the point behind you where the sweep up begins.
(2) Go out and around with the rod tip then you do the “Turn Over” which is the rotation of the rod into a vertical plane to prepare for the “Forward Stroke”.
(3) The stroke path is very similar to a single handed “Belgian Cast”.

Summary

The Perry Poke is a causual cast the you can use to re-position your line to use a simple "Roll Cast" or a "Switch Cast". It can be combined with other more advanced casts too.

Switch Rod Workshop Perspective

I just have to admit that I was a little apprehensive going into the two switch rod workshops that took place in the last 3 weeks. This was a big step for me, it's what I've really wanted to do, hands on teaching, and to me this was my final test. The attendees of the workshops were mostly faces that I knew, people that are die hard fly fishermen, people that I am friends with and the new faces, friends for the future. I've done many small classes and clinics in the past but this was just bigger. I was originally seeking help for the workshop but that didn't pan out due a personal issue. I decided I'd just move forward and make it happen.

So what did I do? I practiced what I was going to teach, I made frequent trips down to the Lower Yuba and worked on double handed casting techniques. the practice casts, like the roll and switch cast, the spey casts, double spey, single spey, snap T, snap Z, the perry poke, the snake roll. Essentially what anyone that wants to be a proficient two handed caster should do.

I wrote three switch rod booklets to handout to the attendees of the workshops. One on the gear you'll need, rods, lines, heads and such. The second on the practice and spey casts that you'll want learn to use a two handed rod effectively. The third on switch rod tactics and and flies you may want to add to your arsenal. These are like term papers to me, this is how I learn. It is the application of studying something, letting it sink in and then composing that information and assimilating it onto paper. It works for me. What I learn can then be passed on to others, this is what teaching is all about.

I contacted our Sage, Rio and Redington rep, Jaime Lyle, and asked if I could borrow a couple of switch rods where I was short. Jaime responded by sending me six. Six rods with reels, lines, heads and tips. I can't thank Jaime enough. Not only did this give me ample rods to use, but it made it possible for the workshop attendees to sample different rods matched with different lines.

The workshops went, I think anyway, better than I had imagined. A bounty of information was shared, with good food, and camaraderie and I think the best thing is that a bunch of fires were lit to continue the learning process of using switch rods and spey casting.

Once again I want to thank Jaime Lyle, Frank Rinella, Mike Williams and Blake Larsen for their encouragement and support.

Keep on Switching