My Fly Boxes - Box #4 -Eggs/ Larger Nymphs

This a continuation of "My Fly Boxes". This 4th box is another of my "Go To" boxes. It is usually sitting in the tray of my drift boat and handy at all times. It is a waterproof, C&F box, with compartments with individual opening lids on one side and a foam slotted patch on the other side. It is a full size box as is about 4 inches x 7 3/4" and 1 3/4" thick. It is stored in my "Fishpond Guide Pack" but I rarely pack it around when I'm wade fishing. It sees more use in the boat.

Why do I like the waterproof boxes? I learned this the hard way. I used to have 3 or 4 Scientific Anglers non-water proof boxes and had them their pretty well filled with flies. I was getting ready for a fishing trip to Montana one time and I took one of the boxes out to check it out. At least half of the flies had rusty hooks and were worthless. I had gotten the box wet when I was wet wading and forgot to open it up and dry out the box and the flies properly. Lesson learned. The waterproof boxes help this from happening. Now, I almost always open my boxes up after fishing to dry then out properly, even though they are waterproof.

Compartment Side

Let's take a look what I've got in my compartmented side


I use the compartmented side of this box for yarn eggs, San Juan Worms and similar types of files. There are 3 compartments that are empty and I know that it's because I've been fishing the egg bite on the Yuba. I just transferred a bunch of "Pettis Eggs" from this box to my smaller C&F Box #2. This is sort of how the eggs in this box go. It's somewhat of a re-supply box for the smaller box with eggs.

Eggs - A little story about eggs. I fished about 20 years ago with a guide on the Kenai River in Alaska. We were visiting Laura's sister, and I was able to squeeze in a half day float for rainbows and king salmon while we were visiting. The guide showed me his egg box. It was a big box probably 6" x 10" and all it had in it was yarns eggs, from opaque white all the way to dark red. It was like a painter's color wheel. The rainbows on the Kenai would lock into one specific color and you had to match it. This was before the "Troutbeads" became popular. He would use the eggs from it and then tie or I guess buy new ones to fill the holes back in. There were probably 75 different colors of eggs.


He also had his "secret" scent. He had a bottle of "juice" that he would put on the egg and it was sort of his secret recipe. He seemed pretty secretive about it. Did it make a difference? I know one thing. We caught some big rainbows an he sure thought it did!



Pettis Eggs - I've been sold on the "Pettis Eggs" for quite a while. I fish started using this pattern on the Klamath River below Iron Gate Dam. Since then it's the first egg pattern that I'll try. There's something about how the glass bead glows through the Egg Yarn. The photo on the right doesn't really do the pattern justice as you don't see the red/scarlet bead in the middle until you get it wet. I tie this more pattern more sparse, so the scarlet bead is more visible, sort of how you should tie a Lafontaine Sparkle Pupa.


I tie this pattern in about 4 colors using "Cascade" egg yarn. To tie this pattern correctly you need to get this yarn. So, I use 4 of the 10 compartments for "Pettis eggs."



Alevin Patterns - Once the egg bite is over the Alevin patterns come into play. I really like the pattern, "Fox's Fertilizer". I've had good luck with this pattern on December 1st when the river opens above the Parks Bar Bridge on the Yuba. I use 1 compartment for these.



Other Alevin Patterns - I have 1 compartment with various Alevin patterns. A couple of these, 3 of those, and so forth. These are flies that I have picked up at The Fly Shop in Redding when I have fished the Lower Sac. It seems though, that if I have any "Fox's Fertilizer's" in my box, that's what I'll "Go To."





Glo Bugs - I have a range of colors of yarn eggs collected mainly from "The Fly Shop" in Redding when the egg bite is on and we have been fishing the Lower Sacramento. I have recently started using more "Troutbeads" and have them in a different box. So, I'll probably eventually phase these yarn eggs out. I have 3 compartments with various yarn eggs in different colors.



The "Troutbeads" are the way to go until the next evolution of eggs comes around. I'll go into more detail about the beads when I get into my Bead Box #5.












Sucker Spawn - The sucker spawn is big on the Lower Sacramento River in the spring and early summer. I was told that the "Old Timers" around Redding say that when the cottonwood trees start blossoming and you get the white "cotton candy like" blooms blowing around, "Put on the Sucker Spawn." I carry two colors, One that is yellow and is called "Oregon Cheese" and a pink color that I'm not sure what the name of it is. I have 2 compartments filled with sucker spawn. I would be willing to bet that Sucker Spawn would work below the Parks Bar Bridge at the same time period.





San Juan Worms - I have 2 compartments filled with San Juan Worms. I have them sort of mixed up with different colors and sizes. The San Juan worm can be great on the Yuba after a spring, fall or winter rain storm. If you ever do stream sampling after a storm you will be surprised how many worms are floating down the river. Do a sampling and then match the color. I usually go for one that is darker. I also like a two tone worm.




That pretty much fills up the compartment side. I need to get set up and tie some more Pettis eggs to fill those 3 empty compartments. Like I've said before, this is what I like about keeping your boxes organized and know what's in them. When you find a big hole or empty compartment you know what you used or what was successful. This is better than sitting there staring at your fly box and muttering to yourself, "What the heck was in that spot?" I'm willing to bet you've been there. Right?





The Other Side "Slotted Foam Patch" - Larger Nymphs

The nymphs that I have stored on this leaf are larger nymphs, size 12 & 14 predominately with a few size 16's. These nymphs are more of the attractors or generic nymphs as opposed to imitative nymphs. My imitative nymphs are primarily in the Boxes 1 &2.



Copper Johns


I like Copper Johns. They just seem to work. I've got a row of Red Copper Johns in sizes from 16's and 14's. I've also got some Chartreuse ones. And there are also some bluish purple ones. I've probably got some other colors in a deep storage box too.





I've got a half dozen of the blue/purple copper johns that worked so well a couple of years ago for steelhead on the Trinity, size 14. This was "the fly" of that day.




Flashback Peasant Tails -





I've got a half dozen Flashback Pheasant tails size 14 that I tied with peacock used for the thorax. If in doubt put on a PT, they will get fish to bite almost anywhere.












Morrish's Dirty Bird-



This is another fly that I really like. There is something very fishy about this fly. It's like a "Bushy" birds nest.



The ones I have left in my box are tied with chocolate/brown dubbing. I've got a half dozen of these. The photo at the right is an olive color. I like this pattern using hares ear dubbing also. That's why I don't have any left in here.





Beadhead Hares's Ears


I've got half a dozen beadhead and non-beadhead hare's ear nymphs. Just a general proven searching pattern. I got on a hares ear kick by reading books written by Dave Hughes. I don't go to these as often these days but I always have some in my boxes.













Bird's Nest's


I have a whole row of bird's nests in size 14. I absolutely love this fly. This is a must have fly in everyone's fly box. Read Ralph Cutter's book "Fish Food" about this. This is another "Go To" fly for me. I've used this on the Lower Sac, Yuba, Montana and just about everywhere. The photo on the right is much "yellower' than the patterns that I've got.



Skip's Nymph


I have a dozen of these that I tied. This is another must have "Go To" nymph. It works for a PMD in the right size and is similar to the bird's nest as a general attractor nymph. I like how easy this pattern is to tie with not a lot of different materials. Try it. This is a great fly on the Lower Sacramento River when the PMD's are happening. I like this fly in a size 16 & 18 when the PMD's are happening on the Lower Yuba.





Lafontaine Twist Nymph - I've got a number of Lafontaine's twist nymphs which have a beadhead and tied from his book "Proven Patterns" I have used this fly, which is tied on a size 14 3x long hook, swinging at dusk in the eddy pools on the Yuba. Cast it into the current, let it swing into the eddy water and hold on!



Prince of Darkness

I've just added this fly to the box. It is a "Go To" fly of Ryan Miller who guides out of Nevada City on the Yuba. This is a good looking fly! I think it's a better Dark Lord. It has that tint of green which alwalys seems to do well on the Yuba.








That's the make up of Box #4 and is full of eggs, SJ worms and my "Go To" attractor nymphs.







You can check out this post and others at http://www.flyfishingtraditions.com/




Take some time to organize your fly boxes, it's worth the time spent.




Clay

Nuts & Bolts #1 - Indicators for Deep Nymphing

12/12/09 - This is the first entry for "Nuts &;Bolts" - Rigging Indicators.

There are many indicators for nymphing available on the market. I'm going to cut to the chase and give my two cents on the on-going debate of "What is the best indicator to use?" I'll clue you into the indicators that I and some of my guide friends have used on our local rivers. As for the local rivers, I am talking about the Lower Yuba River, Feather River, Lower Sacramento River, Trinity River and the Klamath River. I'm really talking about an indicator that has to support a lot of shot and 2 or maybe three flies. This discussion is not about the pinch-on or micro indicators.

The indicators that I typically like to use and will discuss are the;

"Boles Float Rite," the "Thingamabobber" and The Frog's Hair indicators.

The Boles Float Rite
The "Boles Float Rite" Indicator is a made from polypropylene yarn with a swivel in the middle. A stiff polypro "flag" sticks out of the middle. What I like about this indicator is that the post points to where your shot and flies are. If the indicator post is pointing downstream your flies are fishing behind and are being drug downstream. If the indicator post is pointing upstream your flies are racing up in the water column and not fishing at all. If the indicator post is pointing straight up you are fishin'. I've also noticed that when the Boles is fishing right it sort of sucks down into the water column slightly. This indicator is great when fishing dead drifting from a drift boat. You need to mend to attempt keep the fly line straight above the indicator and dead drifting.

The biggest complaint that I've heard about the Boles is that it is harder to adjust depths. The indicators come in a two pack with two rubber bands. You thread your leader through the eye of the swivel, fold the leader back onto itself and then tie a half hitch with the rubber band and then snug up the knot to the swivel. I usually cut the tags of the rubber band short once I snug it up. This is definitely awkward, but you can adjust it, just bring extra rubber bands as they sometimes come loose when you try this adjustment.

The other way to rigg the Boles up, is to tie your butt section straight to the swivel and then tie straight tippet material, 2x or 3x mono, down to your split shot knot. This work great on rivers like the Lower Sacramento where you don't have to be changing depths allot. To change depths you have to shorten or extend the 2x or 3x tippet from the swivel to the split shot knot.

Another point is that you need to treat the Boles with floatant and "Comb" it out before fishing it. A small mustache comb works great, I've even used a toothbrush. Apply the floatant and "tease" out the Poly fibers. A good trick is to use Mucilin Floatant. You can apply this the day before and it seems to keep the "Boles" floating all day long.

The Boles comes in small, medium and large sizes. I like the blue and green colors for stealth

The "Boles Float Rite" is a good one, I like it a lot.


Thingamabobber
The Thingamabobber is a new design in strike indicators from West Water Products.
Its design was inspired by western guides who use small balloons as strike indicators for their buoyancy and sensitivity.
Already a favorite among most of my friends that are guides, the Thingamabobber combines all of the best strike indicator elements in one simple design. It is buoyant, easy to cast, ultra sensitive, durable, and affordable.
The Thingambobber comes in a variety of colors and 1/2", 3/4" and 1” diameters.



The Thingamabobber has all of the best strike indicator elements in one simple design.
• Casts well in any weather condition
• Easy to attach and adjust yet stays in place on your line
• Never sinks and requires no floatant
• Ultra sensitive
• Comes in a variety of colors and sizes
• Durable and affordable
• Highly visible

Frog's Hair Strike Indicators

The Frog Hair Strike Indicators incorporate a quick and easy line threading system that allows for easy adjustments of depth on knotless leaders. As you find the need to adjust depth as you move up or down the river, you simply grab the indicator and slide it into the desired position, lets go, and continues fishing. The Frog's hair indicators can be purchased for re-use or 1 time usage. I personally think the one-use system is a waste and don't understand why they even went there. For the multiple use style you insert a rubber retainer on your leader then the indicator and then a second retainer which enables you to then move the retainers up or down to the desired depth. You can purchase additional retainers as you will have to remove the lower one if you take the indicator off. I really like this one for it's adjustability although if you are using a tapered leader and need to adjust to real shallow depth the indicator has a hard time staying in place. This can be a problem.

Summary


This is a tough one. "Boles," "Thingamabobber," or the "Frog's Hair"? I've been enamored for quite a while by the "Boles Float Rite," but lately I've been reaching into my fish pack and picking out the thingamabobber. I was born in Montana and I guess that it just sounds right. "You betcha, I'm gonna throw on-a thing-a-ma-bobber!"

I guess right now I'm a "Thingamabobber" guy unless I'm having trouble figuring where the heck my flies are in the water column, then I'll switch to a "Boles Float Rite". The "Boles" also works great when your are trying to help people figure out what nymphing is all about and then you can explain to them to watch the post and determine what the flies are doing. The "Frog's Hair" has the easiest adjustability.

So, I guess for me it's a draw. I carry all three. It's more of what I'm trying to accomplish in diferent situations and water types.

General Rigging for Indicators

The rigging diagram above is from the "Boles Float Rite" website. This diagram is the recommended rigging by "Boles Float Rite".

The rigg that I've been schooled on by fish guide, Mike Hibbard, is a little different. Lets talk in general terms and assume that you're using a Boles, Thingamabobber or Frogs hair adjustable, pegged corkie or whatever indicator you prefer. This would be Mike's Lower Sacramento Rigg.

1. Set the indicator about 24" +/- down from the fly line butt.




2. Start will a 9 foot or 10 foot, 2x tapered leader.




3. If you're starting with a tapered leader that has been shortened, extend this down with 2x mono so that you can tie a double surgeons knot or a blood knot 9 ft. below where the indicator is set. This is a good time to note that if you are going from monofiliment to Flurocarbon tippet you need to up size the mono one size, for example 2x mono to 3x fluro.
   


4. This is where you will place your shot. The shot goes above the knot.




5. The tag end from this knot at 9 ft. should extend at least 24" so you can tie your 1st fly at 16" to 18" below the shot. Use 3x fluorocarbon.




6. Tie a 22" piece of 4x fluorocarbon to the hook bend of the 1st fly and tie the 2nd fly 16" to 18" behind the 1st fly.




7. Tie a second 22" piece of 5x fluorocarbon to the hook bend of the 2nd fly and tie a third fly 16" to 18" below the 2nd fly.

This rigging is based upon the 1st fly being the largest the second fly smaller and then the 3rd fly smaller still.

Note.: When working with fluorocarbon and tying two pieces together, use a triple surgeon's knot



You're now good to go. You can then lower the indicator as required in different sections of the river or move it back up.


Thank Mike Hibbard in person at 530-526-5535. Get out on the Lower Sacramento River or the Trinity River with him. He'll show you the ropes. He's taught me!


Make it a tradition!


Clay


You can check out this and additional posts at http://www.flyfishingtraditions.com/

Water Proof Camera

11/13/09

For anyone in the market for a waterproof camera that doesn't want to spend $300 to $350. A new camera has just been introduced to the market. I read an article in the Winter 2010 issue of Flyfishing & Tying Journal which described the Fujifilm WP.

The Fuji Finepix Z33 WP Waterproof Camera with 10 megapixels and 3x optical zoom is available at Amazon.com for about $140. I'm not sure if you'll get the color you want for that price, but what the heck. The retail price is listed at $179.95 and comes with a kit that includes the camera, battery and battery charger.

The camera is small enough to easily fit in a shirt pocket (3 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 7/8" thick). It is completely waterproof down to 3 meters and fully capable of taking pictures underwater.

The camera has an internal memory card of 50 megabytes but will also accept a SD data card. They say with a 2-gigabyte card with the camera set at its finest-quality setting, that you can store over 400 pictures.

The camera takes a Litium-ion battery and the battery has to be charged by the battery charger included in the kit. It is recommended to buy a second battery.

Sounds good to me. Beats My $300 Optio that has a cracked view screen that nobody will fix.

Can't wait to get that underwater shot releasing a nice fish.

Clay

Techniques - Tippet Rings for Leaders

I've recently started looking into fishing the Truckee River this fall. It's only a one hour drive from home and an option that I really haven't taken advantage of. Why? I've been concentrating on the Lower Yuba and the Lower Sacramento River. It's sort of funny, I've been working in Truckee for the last 8 years and when I've gotten done working, I want to get the blank out of there. I'm done working there, so now I want to start fishing there. Go Figure. I guess I am nuts. Pass me a shot of scotch, please.

One of the things I've come across, getting ready, is the technique of rigging using braided line and "Tippet Rings". From what I hear, when fishing the Truckee River, the larger browns like to hold in deeper slots amongst boulders and larger rocks. They also like to hold right on the bottom. This results in lots of lost flies and re-tying leaders and sometimes totally re-rigging.

As a remedy to constantly hanging up and changing riggs and losing flies, the local guides have come up with a rigging system to avoid these break-offs by using a modified "Czech Nymphing Rigg".

Here is the basic formula for a Czech Nymphing Rigg

This modified Czech Leader is comprised of 3 basic components.

(1) A short length of 25 lb. or 30 lb. braided leader material. 60" to 72" when tight line nymphing without indicator, or, 72" to 84" if you are planning on using an indicator.

(2) A tippet ring tied to the business end of the braided line.

(3) Monofilament or fluorocarbon tippet down to one or two blood knots with one long tag end to tie on dropper flies.


Note: This formula is used with a very heavily weight middle fly and no split shot.

An optional rigg is to add a short 12" piece of 2x mono and an additional tippet ring to place shot above the second tippet ring. The top two flies would then be tied off blood knots with an extended tag.

Adding Your Droppers

You can add droppers by using a blood knot and leaving one tagg long to tie on the fly or you can use additional Tippet Rings. The advantage of using the tippet rings is that you can use much heavier tippet between the rings to prevent losing your rigg.



Once you extend the tippet from the braided line you will add one or two droppers depending on whether you are fishing two or three flies.

As shown at the photo on the left, you can attach tippet material using fluorocarbon tippet using clinch knots.

So why would you use tippet rings.

(1) So you can transition from larger tippet to smaller tippet.


(2) If your fly gets hung up on the bottom, in the rocks or gets snapped off by a monster brown trout, you may only loose one fly and not your whole rig.





Using this Rigg for Bounce Nymphing

Note: Please verify if this method is legal in the waters you fish.

Is the Bounce Rigg method considered illegal in California? This is still being debated in certain circles. For years many Truckee anglers used this rig and added split shot at the very bottom of the rigg. This enables the angler to bounce the shot and flies right along the bottom as they high stick and lead the flies through the slots.
When rigging for the bounce method, the shot goes on the very end, tie a double overhead knot and place the shot directly above the knot.

The first fly above the shot is tied on a blood knot tagg about 6 to 8 inches above the shot. The second fly is tied on a blood knot tagg about 6 to 8 inches above the first. This rigg typically is tied with two flies.


Czech Leader System available online or at Local Flyshops

The legend of Truckee, Andy Burk, has marketed his Czech Nymphing system through Umpqua, although most of the local Truckee guides tie up their own. This is a complete ready to go system. It is a re-usable three fly leader with one tippet ring and ready to tie on tags for two droppers.




Hope this all makes sense, want to pour me another shot?

Clay

Sage DXL Typhoon Waterproof Boat Bag

There is a lot of gear out there and boat bags are one of them. If you're fishing in a boat it's a good idea to have one bag that you can take along with you in the boat that has what you need for a day on the water. SAGE has just come out with a new water proof boat bag called the DXL Typhoon Boat Bag.


This new bag has a lot of features, making it the "most feature intense waterproof boat bag ever made".

Some of it's features are;

• Large main compartment with waterproof zipper contains four modular dividers that you can set up any way you like.
• It has a built-in front flap features a fast/simple one-handed secure closure system... you can leave the main compartment unzipped in the boat, and secure the flap to keep the lid closed and the rain or splash water out. This flap rolls up and secures to the top of the bag via built-in magnets when not in use .
• A built-in waterproof CLEAR pocket on the inside on the main compartment lid protects your cell phone, wallet & items you to keep your eye on.
• Full-length zippered pocket in the top side of the lid for maps, leaders etc.
• Large storage pocket with additional mesh storage on the outside, all zippered.
• Large zippered mesh pocket along the front is perfect for tippet dispensing.
• The left side has a roll down pocket that contains a tool tray (holds split-shot, beads, pliers, etc.) and fly patch... both can be removed and placed on the top of the bag while fishing via Velcro fasteners, replaced to pocket when done.
• Fully adjustable shoulder-strap easily cinches down to be used as a carry handle, or can be secured up tight to the back of the bag (out of the way) when it's in use in the boat. 21" x 12" x 13" (1953 cu. in.)

Here's a Video I found at www.feather-craft.com that shows the DXL Typhoon bag's features. It's a good one. The password is sage


Sage boat bag from Rollcast Productions on Vimeo.

Slip or Quick Release Indicators

One of the preferred tactics of many stillwater experts is the use of a slow almost painful retrieve especially when using chironomid patterns. This technique is often done "Naked", which is without and indicator. In order to fool the largest and most challenging fish you must sometimes retrieve the fly at a maddening creeping pace. This pace is often referred to as static. Sort of like watching paint dry.

When targeting greater depths, 10' to 20' many of these anglers have used indicators. The technique evolved using corkie indicators set to depth and fixed in place with a toothpick to enable the angler to present flies right on the bottom where they need to be. In the past toothpicks have been the most popular method of pegging the indicator to the appropriate depth. The only problem was that when a fish was hooked, the anglers risked loosing the fish by having to grab the line during the battle, using their teeth to remove the toothpick. The indicator slid free for the balance of the fight. With the newer evolution of "Slip" or "Quick Release" indicators, the battle of removing the toothpick is now over.

What has come to be the technique of choice for fishing water over 10 feet and up to 20 feet is the use of "Slip" or "Quick Release" Indicators. The Slip Indicator uses a concept so simple it makes you wonder "What took so long". The system uses an over sized peg that the leader is fed through and then pegged to the "Corkie" style indicator. The Slip Indicator system allows a fly fisher to fish deeper waters with confidence.

In actual practice, to rigg the indicator you thread the indicator and peg onto your leader, gather and pinch the leader and then push the leader against itself to create a loop of approximately 1" in diameter, just slightly shorter than the peg sticking out of the indicator. The peg wants to be pointed to the fly not the fly line. Push the peg with firmly but not too tight into the indicator.

When the strike comes, lift the rod and the tension between the angler and fish releases the loop and the indicator is free to slide. The cumbersome method of removing a tooth pick is gone.

Slip Indicator Tips

• When fishing with slip indicators the technique is almost static. It is primarily "Heave it and Leave It".

• If the choice is to move the indicator at all, use a pinch strip, holding your hands together and moving the indicator an inch at a time, very slowly.

• You can use use a 6" to 12" strip with a steady and very slow motion.

• OK, how slow is slow? When fishing indicators, imagine you are sitting on a keg of dynamite. When retrieving, if you see any ripple of water moving at the indicator or from the floating line, you blow yourself up. That slow!

• When fishing leeches under indicator, try casting straight up wind and hand twist retrieve it as the wind pushes it back towards you. You are really just gathering line not trying to move the flies.

• Use wind drifting to fish the indicator rigg.

(a) Anchor with fore and aft anchors parallel to the wind.
(b) Cast across wind at a 90 degree angle to your anchored position
(c) Let the wind move your indicator along with the wind

• Remember insects can't swim against the wind they drift with the current.

• Start with your flies 1' to 2' off the bottom. Then work up the water column until you find willing fish. 6" can make a difference especially with rainbow trout.

• Focus on water that is less than 20' deep

How do you Determine Depth

How do you determine the depth of the water you're fishing in. You can get a rough idea from using your electronics, fish finder with a depth sounder, to get a ball park. But to get it right, you need to test the depth. Anchor your boat fore and aft and test the depth where you plan to fish.

(a) Set your indicator to the approximate depth as determined by your depth finder
(b) Attach weight to your point fly (bottom fly).
(c) You can attach your hemostats to the fly or a weighted sinker
(d) Lower the fly with the weight slowly until it gently hits the bottom.
(e) Check to see how far the indicator is under the surface of the water.
(f) This will be the depth of your point fly off the bottom when you remove the hemostats or weight.
(g) Adjust the indicator accordingly to the desired depth to be fished. You want to start at 1' to 2' off the bottom or the weeds.

Use "Balanced Flies"

Try using balanced flies. Tie up some balanced flies, like a "Balanced Leech". This style of tying incorporates a tungsten bead mounted on a common straight pin that extends from the hook shank in front of the eye. The tungsten beads work best as their dense mass maintains an overall compact fly. The horizontal balanced flies take on the natural path and profile of most aquatic food sources. Their pitching and jigging action is tough for fish to resist. Try tying up a balanced leech or scud and see how they work.

You can get tying instructions for "Balanced Leeches" at Phil Rowley's www.flycraftangling.com. His site is full of stillwater fishing tips and techniques. Check it out!

The "Balanced Leech" photo is courtesy of Fly Craft Angling.


How do you Rigg your Leader for Slip Indicators

• Start with tying a stiff piece of 24" monofilament to the fly line with a nail knot.

• Tie on a tapered leader, 9' to 15', 3x or 4x with a blood knot. If the budget allows fluorocarbon leaders are ideal. Especially when targeting water about 10' deep.

• With the butt section and leader in place simply add fluorocarbon tippet to reach the overall finished leader length.

• Add a swivel or tippet ring at the end of your extended tippet to insure you won't lose the peg from your indicator in the case of a break off.

• Install the swivel 18" to 24" above the 1st fly.

• You can tie a dropper right off the swivel or tippet ring.

How do you determine the length of the tippet?

A simple rule of thumb to follow is the overall leader length should be 25% longer than the water is deep. For example, working a chironomid pupa in 15 feet of water would require a 19-foot leader.

How to you Rigg the actual Slip Indicator

• Slip indicators come in various sizes, colors and shapes. Carry many options.

• The common denominator is that they all have a peg to fix the indicator in place.

• This peg comes loose when a fish takes your fly and tightens the line. The peg and the indicator drops to a swivel or tippet ring placed above your flies.

• Carry swivels and/or tippet rings to keep from losing your indicator and mainly the peg. The indicator would float to the surface if you broke off, the peg won't

• When installing the indicator the peg faces the flies.

• You can tie a dropper off the swivel or the tippet ring as an option.

• Use a dropper tags to attach the droppers. Keep them shorter than 10".

• Maintain a spacing of about 3 feet between your flies.

Casting Indicators

• Keep casts short, 30' to 35' is ideal

• Use a roll cast combined with roll cast pickup to recast your rigg.

• Use small indicators to keep yourself honest and keep the indicators close enough (30' to 35".

• When casting, open up your loops, break your wrist slightly. Apply smooth power. Don't punch your casts.

• Make sure your backcasts lay out behind your completely.

• Try integrating a "Belgian Cast".

• Shoot your line to the target.

• Watch for distinct plops of your indicator and the flies laying out to make sure you're not tangled.

Summary

Add "Slip" or "Quick Release" Indicators to your stillwater strategies and you will take your stillwater game to a new level.

You can purchase Phil Rowley's Slip Indicators at his website, www.flycraftangling.com

Kit Bags Review

The Sage DXL Kit Bag is a bag that every fly fisherman should have. The Sage Kit Bag for fly fishing is made of rip stop nylon and packed with pockets for all your gear; throw it in your vehicle so you can grab a quickie session on a stream where ever your travels take you. When it comes time to jump on a plane the Sage Kit Bag is also an essential piece of luggage; it easily carries all the reels, spools and airline deemed carry-on safe! With its great looks, you and your significant other won’t mind using it for all your travel needs. From your backyard creek to the flats of the Bahamas the Sage Kit Bag will be there for you.

Leland on the Specifications

The Sage Fly Fishing Kit bag is a huge 2150 cu in storage capacity. Its large center area has 7 pockets to organize your reels, spools, leaders and tippet. The rip-stop nylon prevents any small accidents from becoming major accidents. The large over flap keeps any unwanted material out. And the two large nylon closure buckles can’t rust and are easy to operate. The large 3-inch shoulder strap wears comfortable as you traverse the airport, docks or sand dunes.

Specifications:

• 21" x 12" x 10"
• Multiple zippered pockets for all of your angling tools
• Padded bottom with non-slip rubber feet
• Zippered main storage for securing all items at the end of the day
• Small license pocket in lid
• Padded, removable, shoulder strap
• Multiple lash points perfect for attaching retractors and/or tools

Stillwater Kit Bag

When fly fishing there are some things we can control and some things we can not. We have no control over our weather or our physical environment such as water temperature, barometric pressure and wind. Our fly fishing equipment is controllable. If we as fly fishers focus on what can be controlled, we will be better prepared for what we cannot. If our equipment is in order and we have everything we need, we will be consistently more successful.

On any given day it's what you have in your arsenal as opposed to what you left at home that can make a big difference. A well stocked and organized kit bag can make this difference. A kit bag is your stillwater nerve center that should be ready to go at a moments notice.

The Stillwater Kit Bag

Let's take a look at the kit bag itself and what you should consider when getting one. It must be portable and have enough compartments, pockets and sections to house a wide array of gear. This allows you to sort and store equipment in a logical and easy to find fashion. You must develop a system and have discipline to make sure items are put back in their place. Take the time to put everything back in its place after each day of fishing. This is not always easy. I'm often tired at the end of a day's fishing and just want to get on the road and home as soon as possible. Its a case of "just do it".

Look for a bag with good strong zipper systems. Be wary of bags that have pockets that zip around 90 degree corners. Look for weatherproof kit bags with lots of compartments. A shoulder strap is another handy feature. Water resistance is paramount, especially if the kit bag is also home to camera equipment. Most quality gear bags are waterproof or some come with waterproof covers in the event of a damp day.

A very good bag is the Sage DXL. It is large enough to contain most everything that a stillwater angler should carry. This is especially true if you are fishing out of a boat or pram. Fishpond also makes some great bags as well as Cabelas.

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The Sage DXL Bag

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Pocket Bags For Pontoon Boats

I have a pontoon boat that I fish from. If you are a pontoon boat guy or gal, Outcast makes large pontoon boat pocket bags that can hold most if not everything you will need on a day's outing. You may need to be a little more selective with the amount of extra spools and lines you carry, but you can usually rig a storage box on the rack behind the seat to carry extra items.

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The Outcast XL Splashproof Pocket Bag

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The Items you Need to Carry

There are six main categories to consider when outfitting a gear bag;

(1) Reel Spools & Lines
(2) Leaders and Tippet
(3) Accessories
(4) Fly Boxes
(5) Safety and Comfort
(6) Miscellaneous Items.

Category #1 - Fly Rods, Reels, and Lines

It is recommended to carry a minimum of two fly rods, so you will need at least two good quality reels that will be rigged and ready to go. I usually have one rigged with a floating line and one with a clear camo. The number of extra spools and lines you need to carry in your kit bag depends upon time of the year, the physical make up of the lake, and the number of fly rods you intend to carry. In a boat you can carry more. In a float tube or pontoon boat typically two.

The lines you should carry or have available are;

(1) A Weight Forward Floating Line
(2) A Clear Camo Intermediate Line
(3) An Additional WF Floating Line. A second floating line can be particularly handy during a chironomid emergence. Where regulations allow, an angler can work two floating lines, one with and indicator and one without.
(4) A Traditional Intermediate Line. Depending upon the manufacture these sink slower than most clear intermediates which tend to sink at a type 2 rate. Intermediates are the perfect choice for creeping scuds, leeches or damsel nymphs over shoals or along shorelines.
(5) A Clear Tip Line - The Clear Tip Line is also an excellent addition. This line is ideal for deep, long leader nymphing, as well as working flies through the shallows. Clear tip lines offer a different retrieve angle that can sometimes make all the difference.
(6) A Type 3 Full Sinking Line. - The Type III line will cover most of your deeper presentations
(7) A Type 6 Full Sinking Line - The type 6 line is ideal for working deep reaches, stripping leeches and dragon patterns over the shoals or crawling buoyant flies over sunken weeds and debris.

Category #2 - Leaders and Tippet

Never leave home without a good selection of leaders and tippet. Leaders and tippet are the critical connection between the fly and the angler and are sometimes overlooked. Depending upon leader set up preference, carry butt material for long leader setups or braided loops. You will use both types of leader connections depending on the line and presentation. For example, for a floating line, long leader system begin with 2-3 feet of .025"to .030" butt section and add a tapered leader and tippet for length.

Always keep your kit bag stocked with a good selection of tapered leaders from 9 to 15 feet. These are items that can get overlooked. Who wants to get to the lake and then find out they forgot to restock their leaders. Make it a habit to restock.



Tippet sizes should vary from 3X down through 6X depending upon conditions. As a general rule the clearer the water the finer the leader and tippet. Stock your kit bag with tippet spools that match leader strength in both fluorocarbon and co-polymer. Use fluorocarbon for clear conditions and sunk flies. Co-polymer tippet is fine for stained waters and dry fly presentations as it does not drag flies beneath the surface. Fluorocarbon will sink which is not a good idea for dry fly presentations.

Category #3 - Accessories

There are many accessories that a well stocked kit bag should have inside.

• Thermometers are a critical tool as water temperature dictates fish activity and feeding as well as insect emergence's. Knowing the preferred temperature range of rainbow trout (55F-65F) allows fly fishers to eliminate non productive water. Using a traditional thermometer on a string, anglers can vertically probe the water and locate fish.

• Nippers. When it comes to nippers have good pair or even better two. Purchase a key floaty and attach your nippers to it. This helps when they accidentally flip over the side in the water. It's also a good idea to place your nippers on a retractor and attaching them on the shirt or jacket.

• Hemostats or forceps are necessary to crimp barbs, remove hooks from fish and friends, or even set indicator depth. If possible look for a pair with cutters.

• Bell Sinker - A bell sinker works for fine tuning indicator depth. Attach a beg sinker to your deepest fly, attach your slip indicator to the approximate depth and slowly lower the bell sinker until it hits bottom. Check the depth of the slip indicator under the surface which will tell you how deep your flies will be floating and adjust accordingly.

• Clothes Peg/Clip - To transfer a fly line using a clothes peg, reel the leader back to the reel. Clamp on the forceps between the stripping guide and the reel preventing the leader from snaking back through the guides. Cut the leader and replace the spool. Reattach the leader to the new line and you are ready to go. No more adventures standing in a boat feeding line through rod guides.

• Knot Tying Tool - Knot tyers for forming nail knots are handy if attaching leaders or butt sections to a fly line is a preferred set up.

• Indictors - Carry a good selection of sizes, types and colors. It is recommended to carry, slip Indicators, corkies and yarn indictors. Yarn indicators cast easily and work well in shallow clear waters where the splat and look of a corky may spook wary trout.

• Shot - When using floating lines in windy conditions weight is often needed to aid presentation. Include a selection of split shot or non-toxic putty.

• Swivels - Barrel swivels are another option. A small bag of #12-#16 swivels should suffice.

• Floatant, Sinkant, Line Cleaner - Include floatant, leader sinkant and line cleaner. Use both paste and powder floatant. Apply paste floatant prior to casting. Dry fly powders are a desiccant that quickly dry sunk or trout slobbered flies. Sinkant degreases leaders and tippet, a necessary step when fishing dry flies on calm clear days.

• Throat Pump - Throat pumps are a valuable accessory but should only be used on fish larger than 14 inches and if the angler is comfortable doing so.

• Vials or White tray - This allows for clear inspection of the contents guiding fly selection and determining feeding depth. Bottom dwelling contents would suggest presenting patterns just above the weeds. Conversely, emergers and adults would indicate fish are cruising near the surface.

Category #4 - Fly Boxes

Fly Boxes - After years of experimenting I prefer smaller fly boxes that store easily in the kit bag. Use a label maker to identify the contents so time isn’t wasted looking for a favorite pattern. Clear compartmentalized boxes are ideal for dry flies as they tend not to squash hackle. Choose a sorting system that makes sense, group them by food type; chironomids, caddis and mayflies, leeches, dragons and damsels, scuds, boatman and backswimmers and dry flies.

Category #5 - Safety and Comfort Items

Safety and comfort items typically have nothing directly to do with fishing but everything with an enjoyable day on the water.

• Sunglasses - In addition to providing eye protection from errant flies polarized sunglasses are critical to penetrating the sun’s glare and seeing into the water. Underwater obstructions, weed beds, drop offs, migrating invertebrates and cruising fish are easily seen. Keep the glasses in a protective case when not in use and make a regular habit of cleaning the lens.

• Sunscreen and lip balm are recommended kit bag additions, especially for the fair skinned.

• Band-Aids manage small nicks and cuts as well as providing fore finger relief from line burns caused by fleeing trout.

• A small bottle of Aspirin, Advil or Tylenol handles any dehydration headaches that pop up.

• A roll of toilet paper in a Ziploc bag is a welcome sight for obvious reasons.

• Keep a small towel in the bag for wiping wet hands. On cool days letting hands dry through evaporation leads to frigid digits in short order.

Category #6 - Miscellaneous Items

• Camera - Never leave the shore without a camera. A DSLR or small point and shoot system adds to the experience providing lasting memories.

• Include a pen and note pad in a plastic bag to record detailed notes of the day’s experiences and observations. This habit reduces the learning curve as important items are not forgotten. Keep track of everything, including weather patterns, diet analysis, hatches, successful patterns, structure types, leader set ups, presentation techniques and any general observations. This information is key to a fly fishers growth and development.

• Fishing license.

Summary

Having confidence that you have everything you need when your are going fishing is very important especially when a fly shop is hours away. having what you need lets you concentrate on what you've journeyed for, fishing..

A well thought out and stocked kit bag plays a pivotal role in becoming a successful stillwater angler. This often goes as an unrecognized role fly fishing stillwaters. Knowing your kit bag it is complete and stocked allows you to focus on the other variables on the stillwaters. There are enough uncontrollable aspects to a day’s fishing. Get organized, and get out there ad have some fun!

Kayaks - Product Reviews

Zack's been wanting to go kayaking for quite awhile. He kayaked in a lake in Montana with my brother in law's kayak with his cousins and had a ball. I bought him a sit on top kayak for his birthday in April and this weekend the weather finally got nice enough to give it a try. The kayak I decided to buy him was the "Spitfire" manufactured by "Emotion".


Spitfire from Emotion Kayaks

This kayak is 8 feet long and is very maneuverable. You can turn it on a dime and Zack could probably eventually run the Lower Yuba with it with no problem. It is light weight and comes with the backrest. This kayak was a package price including the paddle for $325.

Standard Features Manufactured from specially compounded polyethylene plastic Easy to repair, UV resistant, designed for years of care free use 3-year warranty on hull Dual carrying handles at each end of kayak Specifications Length: 8 ft (243 cm) Width: 30 in. (76 cm) Weight: 38 lbs. (17 kg) *Weight capacity: 225 -240 lbs. (102 -109 kg) *Depending on water conditions

Tarpon by Wilderness Systems

I picked up a "Wilderness" kayak for myself 12 ft "Tarpon" touring kayak. It has a large storage compartment in front and a small compartment right in front of the seat. The seat is very comfortable and has good adjustments. The foot rests are on rails and also very adjustable. I purchased the model that was the touring kayak because the "fishing kayak" is set up with spinning rod holders. The touring kayak is the same setup but without rod holders. I can order a "Fly rod holder" when I want to. I'm mostly going to use the kayak for playing around with the family and not for fishing. But you know how it goes. The Tarpon retails for $1049 without the paddle. I purchased the kayak on sale with the paddle for $875 from Wolf Creek Outdoors in Grass Valley.

Phase 3 SOT seating syste TriggerLock adjustable footbrace system SlideTrax adjustable accessory system 10" oval Orbix bow hatch 8" round Orbix center hatch Large tank well/ bungee storage system Dual paddle holders Scotty spinning rod holder - My model came without the rod holders Two flush mount rod holders 3.5 lb Anchor w/ Bag FREE Scupper plugs included Optional Rudder System

Freedom 12 Angler Kayak fro Wilderness

Now if you are really serious about fly fishing from a kayak you should check out the "Freedom 12 Angler Fishing Kayak" also from "Wilderness". This kayak features removable multi-position outriggers so you can actually stand up and cast. It has a casting brace and stabilizing bar. They had one on the floor at "Fish First" in Chico if you wanted to take a look at one. What will they think of next.

High-density polyethylene plastic Removable multi-position outriggers Watertight storage in each outrigger Casting brace & stabilizing bar High back seat Multi-position molded-in footbraces 2 cup holders Paddle holder 2 flush mount rod holders Self-bailing scupper holes w/ plugs Reinforced floor Stainless steel, aluminum, & plastic hardware

Good Old Stuff

I had a friend over the other day and we were talking about all the gear we've collected over the years. I pulled out one on my "Old Favorites". It was an Orvis impregnated bamboo rod that I had purchased new about 20 years ago. It's a 5 weight rod. I found the rod tube, opened it up and pulled out the rod sock. It was damp. I said to myself, "Oh, No!" The wood insert was swollen and the nickel was very tarnished. The bamboo had mold on it. I wiped it down and set it out to air out.


This later led me to pull out an original "Powell" signature series rod that has been sitting in the corner for awhile. It is a 5 weight graphite rod that has two tips, a 5 and a 6 weight. Fortunately it looked great. I picked it up on Kienes Board as a backup rod for my drift boat, but when I received it I checked it out and thought its too nice for that! I think I'll start using it now.


I then dug out my rod tube for a 7 weight, Orvis bamboo rod that I bought used a long time ago. It was also an impregnated bamboo rod. Believe it or not, I bought it to use chasing half pounders on the Yuba. Believe me when you hook up on a hot Lower Yuba bow it puts a bend in that rod! I got into the bamboo rod thing after reading a bunch of John Gierach novels. I you've read his stuff you know what I'm talking about. Fortunately this one was in good shape. Thank goodness. So the score was 2 out of three in good shape.


This all got me thinking. It's time to keep these rods out. Maintain them and have them where I and anyone wandering into Fly Fishing Traditions World headquarters can take a look at them. It will even give me a nudge to get them on the water again.


Cleaning up a Bamboo Rod


For my 5 weight bamboo rod I had a task list went something like this.

• Clean off the mold from the bamboo with denatured alcohol. I took a lint free cloth soaked in in alcohol and wiped the bamboo rod until all signed of mold were gone and there were no trace of dirt or mold remaining on the cloth. Done!

• I then cleaned the cork handle.  I used dish soap with a soft tooth brush. I didn't need to go to the fine grit sandpaper level. The cork grip cleaned up nice with just the soap and water. Done!

• Clean the metal on the reel seat and stripping guide where tarnished. I purhased a cleaning and polishing compound that specifically said it was safe for silver and nickel. I applied it with a lint free cloth and repeatedly rubbed the metal areas until the oxidation was gone. I did this for the metal parts at the reel seat, the stripping guide and the winding checks. Done!

• Now to check the fit of the ferrules. I've always had a problem with the ferrules on my bamboo rods so I thought I'd better go to the source, Orvis. They recommended using Denatured alcohol to clean the inside of the ferrules. I poured it into the ferrules and using thin strips of the lint free cloth with a toothpick to swab the inside. I did this until the cloth came out clean. For the male ferrules I used the cleaning and polishing compound first, repeated it until my cloth was clean showing no residue. The ferrules were heavily oxidized so I cleaned them carefully with extra fine steel wool until they slid cleanly and firmly together. Done!

• Once the metal parts were good and clean I dried everything with a clean cloth. I then took a furniture polish and applied it to all the bamboo parts and thoroughly wiped in in. Done!

I did this process to both of my Orvis bamboo rods and they are now hanging on the wall and ready to go. It took me most of a day to do both rods but it sure was worth it. They look great on the wall and I can't wait to get them out on the river.

My Fly Box - Box #5 - The Bead Game

My Fly Box #5 is my "Troutbead" box. I wrote this in mid December and the egg bite had tapered off on my home river, the Lower Yuba River, and my yarn egg box is looking pretty meager. I used mostly "Pettis Eggs" this year but I am now stocked and armed with "Troutbeads" which is what this box #5 is all about. The Orvis M4 box itself is a box that has been banging around in my deep storage and hasn't seen the light of day in awhile. I emptyed it and put the flies that where in it into other boxes where now they'll get used.

The box is a small Orvis M4 compartment box with 16 compartments with individually openable lids. Some bigger and some smaller. It's about 4" wide x 4 3/4" tall x 1 3/8" thick. It has a handy lanyard that you can hang around your neck or a bag if you want to.

I've got this box stocked with toothpicks to secure the beads to the tippet, hooks in various sizes and beads of different colors and sizes from "Troutbeads." I purchased most of my beads online from http://www.troutbeads.com/


"Troutbeads" has a huge assortment of beads with multiple shades and variations of colors. They also have many textures. They are also pretty cheap, so I don't mind buying different colored beads to experiment with. This part of the "Bead Game."


"Troutbeads" have colors like; Natural Roe, Dark Roe, Caramel Roe, Glo-Roe, Orange Pearl, Peach Pearl, Salmon, Cheese, Shrimp, Cream etc. The idea is to match the color of the bead to the color of the natural eggs. These colors are only the tip of the iceberg. If you are going to get into the "Bead Game" you will probably need to invest in a couple of large plastic compartmented boxes to store all the different sizes and colors of beads and hooks. You can stock a small box like the M4 of mine on the day you go out fishing with the beads that you think will work or that you want to experiment with.

The "Troutbeads" come in sizes of 6, 8, 10, and sometimes 12mm. You also need to match the size of the eggs. I usually start fishing with 8mm eggs unless someone in the know tells me otherwise. On the Lower Sacramento River when 8mm beads just aren't happening and then you switch to a 6mm bead in the same colors sometimes the trout start biting again.


When trying to select the right color and size of bead to use you need to match the eggs of the Chinnock Salmon in our Northern California Rivers. Salmon enter our rivers and spawn in seasonal waves. A spawning salmon may dig a redd in November, but there may also be drifting salmon eggs that were laid in the gravel weeks before. The trout will have a preference for a certain stage of the egg.

The only way to pick the right egg imitation is by experimentation. You should carry lots of different eggs to cover all possible scenarios. Once you find a working solution, you'll need to stay alert because trout may change their preference during the day or on a different part of the river.

I gathered some of the rigging and painting information assembled below from articles from http://www.westfly.com/

As a basic guideline, the diameters of beads used for Chinook salmon in Northern California are 8.0 mm to 12.0 mm. Steelhead and Rainbow Trout eggs are about 5.2 mm.

Fingernail Polish Applied to Troutbeads

I have been talking with Frank Rinella, a local guide, about how he and other guides on the Lower Sacramento River uses Troutbeads. He has said that they like to paint the beads with fingernail polish. The purpose of painting a bead is to give it the subtle hue of an egg that has milt on it. He usually paints up his beads close to the time he is planning on fishing with them. They look "fresh" that way. I've also read about painting beads with a small orange dot to simulate an egg that is starting to develop.

When painting a bead for usage on the Lower Yuba River, I have been advised to select a fingernail polish that has a pinkish-ivory tint (Shear Peach by Revlon seems to be popular). Some guides apparently can be quite secretive about their favorite fingernail polishes.

Before painting a bead, open a window! Fingernail polish has potent solvents that you don't want to smell too long. To paint a bead with fingernail polish, put the bead on a round toothpick. Hold the nailbrush up to the bead and roll the toothpick with the fingers of your other hand so the polish goes on evenly and covers all the bead. You don't want a gloppy finish; make it smooth. Gloppy finishes usually come from getting too much fingernail polish on the brush. Also, avoid getting polish on the toothpick; if you do, polish may pull off the bead when you remove the toothpick. When the bead is painted, stick the toothpick in a block of styrofoam or similar material while the polish dries.

Some guides in Alaska like to put on two coats of polish. The second coat is a different color and gives the bead a 3D look.

Rigging Bead Eggs

To fish with bead eggs, on the Lower Yuba River rig up a leader of 2X or 3X. A tapered leader works well. Tie on a 12-inch super-fluorocarbon tippet with a blood knot. Put the bead on the tippet below the blood knot. Tie on a size 8-10-12 egg hook similar to a Tiemco TMC2499SP-BL. The size of the hook will depend on the size of bead that you use. I've read that trout and steelhead can be also fussy about the hook color, so some anglers carry these hooks in red, green, black, and brown. I have not tried this myself.

For our local river, the Lower Yuba River, the local guides recomend to peg the bead to the tippet with a toothpick about 3/8 inch to 1/2" from the eye of the hook (that's right: the bead is not on the hook). Use a toothpick (color to match the bead if available) and slide the toothpick into the bead and push it all the way flush with a pair of pliers or foreceps. You don't want any of the toothpick to stick out of either side of the bead.

The photo at the right shows the bead approximately 3/4" to 1" from the eye of the hook. If the fish in the river you are larger, steelhead and larger trout some guides will increase the distance from the eye. The key is to be able to hook the fish inside the mouth and in the corner of the jaw. If you find that you are hooking fish on the outside of the jaw the bead is too far away from the eye of the hook.

One article I read about using beads in Alaska suggests using two beads, if the regulations permit. A large cream coral or pearl peach bead without a hook can serve as an attractor. Peg it to the tippet three to five inches above the "real" bead. You'll have to ask Frank about this one!

Also, some fly-fishing-only waters do not allow a bare hook, so check the regs before you rig.

Attaching Eggs to a Hook

Another way to rigg Troutbeads is to "burn" them onto the hook.

(1) You can also take an egg hook and hold it in a pair of lockable foreceps.

(2) Take the bead you want to use and insert a toothpick into one side of the hole.

(3) Break a portion of the toothpick off, so the toothpick only goes halfway through.

(4) Heat the hook with a "Bic" type lighter for about 4 or 5 seconds.

(5) Press the bead onto the back of the heated hook.

(6) The toothpick should be pointing vertically when you press on the egg.

(7) Take the toothpick out after the hook cools down.

(7) You are good to go.

Try the "Bead Game" you'll have some fun with some trout and steelhead tearing up and down the river.

Chinook Salmon on the Yuba

If you want to check out my Flyboxes #1, 2, 3, &4 check out my earlier blog posts at http://www.flyfishingtraditions.com/

Clay