Kingfisher Drift Boat Build - Fillets and 6" Bi-Axial Cloth

This weekend was sort of a mixed bag. I've been working on laminating the rounded transom, which received its 3rd layer of 3mm Okoume Plywood this morning, and getting caught up with a few other projects. I've been working on the epoxy peanut butter fillets that go on the inside of the junction between the sides and the bottom and started building the molds for the pedestals which the seats will be mounted to.

Fillets 

The bottom and the sides were stitched together with 16 gauge wire. Applying fillets between the stitches will enable me to then remove the stitches and fillet the entire joint. It's a two step process.

• The first step to stabilize the connection between the sides and the bottom was to place fillets of epoxy peanut butter at the junction of the sides to the bottom ( the inside of the chine) between the wire stitches. This essential glues the sides to the bottom.
• Tip. When you mix the epoxy make sure that it is mixed for at least 2 to 3 minutes and then add the wood flour. It will take more than you think and it has to be thick so it won't sag. 
• Once you have the epoxy peanut butter mixed to the right consistency you can apply it with a mixing stick and then use a yellow squeegee with a rounded corner to smooth it out. My squeegee comes with a radius of about 5/8". Apply the peanut butter to the joint between the stitches.
• Once this dries overnight you can cut and remove the stitches. 
• When the stitches are out sand the fillets with 80 grit sandpaper with a 5" random orbital sander. Also sand the hole where the stitches were placed.
• After sanding, vacuum up all the dust and then wipe all the surfaces with acetone.

Now for Phase Two of the Fillet 

• Take a compass and mark a 1 1/2" radius on one edge of your yellow squeegee. Use a bend sander or random orbital sander to shape the radius. Sand a bevel for a fine edge.
• You will be using 6" Bi-axial Glass to reinforce the interior chine joint. Set up a 2' x 8' long piece of plywood on sawhorses. This will be your glassing table.
• Pre-cut the 6" Bi-axial glass cloth for both chines and the stem. There will be two pieces about 13' long and one piece about 2'6" long. 
• Cut these pieces and set them on the glassing table.
• Next mix up about 12 ounces of epoxy and then thicken it with wood flour to the consistency of peanut butter, non-sagging peanut butter, thicker than you think. 
• Tip! - You will be placing this at the interior chine joint and it will create a cove. If the peanut butter is not thick enough it will sag down off the sides and onto the bottom. This is not good. I found this out the hard way!
• Spread the epoxy peanut butter and then use the squeegee to shape the joint. Don't over work it or over think it just get it on. It will shortly be covered with more resin and the Bi-axial cloth.
• Do the chines first and then do the stem. My transom isn't installed yet so I will be doing the transom later.

Next Apply the Bi-axial Fiberglass.

• Lay out one of the 6" Bi-axial glass strips on the glassing table.
• Mix up about 12 ounces of resin.
• Pour the resin down the center of the cloth and work it into the glass mesh with your squeegee making sure that the cloth is entirely "wet out".
• Once the cloth is saturated fold it back on itself three or four times to facilitate carrying it to the boat.
• Lay the cloth on top of the filleted joint. It should be approximately 3" on the bottom and 3" up the sides.
• Once the cloth is laid out to it's full length. go back and smooth the cloth into the fillets with your gloved hand.
• Use your fingers to spread the cloth out and remove any wrinkles or bubbles. You can also use the squeegee.
• Once the cloth is laid out you can go on to the next piece and repeat the process.
• Note: on the stem leave about 1 1/2" at the top without the fillet or glass. 
• Once all three pieces are down you can mix some epoxy and take a brush and wet out all the spots that are still white of that seem to need a little more epoxy.